Hello holyghostfire and
to our forums!!
Wow sounds like a really cool Sunrader ya got over there. 1981 is of course the best year for Toyota pickups world wide as they are the last to have round headlights. And I own an '81 4x4 which validate this statement.
Nice score on the Turbo Bellhousing. I've seen just the bellhousing alone
go for $400. No joke. R-series is definitely the strongest practical option and it will never let your application down.
The first thing that comes to mind is that the V6 2WD transmission uses a 23-spline slip yoke at the driveline. So you've got two options: 1. Find a 23-spline slip yoke from a V6 driveline and take it to your driveline guy with your original 21-spline driveline and have him make a hybrid 23-spline slip yoke 4-cyl driveline at the same time you get its length adjusted. Or, 2) Pickup a stock V6 2WD driveline and have it's length adjusted to your needs and then use our triple drilled differential flange (link
) so the V6 driveline will connect to your rear axle. I don't like option 2 because you will disturb the preload on your differential (unless you've previously upgraded it to our solid crush sleeve (link
)), and you might run into additional complications because I believe you have a two piece driveline with a carrier bearing and I don't know for sure if a 6cyl carrier will attach to your original 4cyl chassis mount. Option 1 is nice, just make a hybrid line and be done with it.
I think you'll be okay without this, but you might consider our speedometer cable extension (link
) so that you don't have to tug and place extra stress on your cable in order to reach back to the longer R-series transmission (but I think the stock cable can be pulled to reach, it just might be nice to not have to pull it away from its original positioning).
Let's see, what else... You might consider our Heavy Duty Shifter Seat (link
, you'll need the White version) & Socket (link
) as the transmissions you're picking most likely has wasted parts and our H.D. parts make a HUGE improvement in shifting performance (see demonstration video here
). Also, make sure the transmission you are picking up includes a shift handle, otherwise you'll have to source one. Your L45 shift handle does have the same diameter pivot ball, however the extension beneath the ball is shorter and is therefore not compatible with the R150. You can lengthen it using 1/2" round bar stock.
You'll need G- W- or R-series bellhousing bolts as your original L45 top bolts are too short and lower bolts are too long.
You'll need a R-series clutch fork because the pivot ball is larger and the L-series fork is not compatible.
The clutch fork boots are the same (link
), and the shifter base boots are the same (link
, you'll need the round version).
I am not certain on 2WD applications, but on 4WD applications the shift handle of a R-transmission is about 2-inches further away from the dash than compared to your original L-transmission. This is in a way a plus, as you won't have to reach as far to engage 1st or 3rd (and your new 5th), just keep your
that the 2" offset won't cause any trouble with your interior floor shift boot (for instance it might bind between the body and the shift handle, or if your engine mounts are worn it might inadvertently shift out of gear under heavy acceleration or deceleration).
I'm not sure on this, but I think your L45 uses a 2-wire reverse light plug whereas the R150 uses a 1-wire plug.
I can't think of anything else off the top of my head at the moment. We have plenty of used bellhousing bolts, clutch forks, and reverse light plugs here if needed, (559) 252-7295. If you call, please be patient for custom stuff like this as our guys are slammed taking orders and odd ball requests that are not in our system will cause a hiccup. As for a R150 shift handle, yes I'm sure we have them here, but we must reserve these for our 4WD Short Throw Kits.
Speaking of Short Throw Kits, we do have a few of our old-style spacer-type short throws (see this link
) in stock for the 2WD R150 transmission. Definitely give us a call for this because if you need to find a shift handle anyway, then you can kill two birds with on stone AND have a SA-WEEEEET short throw + our H.D. shift seat and sock = the most crisp and efficient shifting performance in your neighborhood (read customer testimonials here
The plan was to get a new clutch, but if I have to pay for all the labor to remove the transmission then might as well get the best. I have no idea how much I will have to move the driveshaft back or forward. Anything else I need to do? What other expense is there that I forgot about?
You are like the poster child for our Oversized Clutch Upgrade Combo Kit: http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/heavy-duty/oversized-clutch-upgrade-combo-kit
. This kit comes with everything one needs to upgrade a non-Turbo clutch & flywheel platform to the Turbo setup (this kit is intended for non-R-series setups so you still need the R-series clutch fork mentioned above which is not included in this kit). Also, since it's a Combo Kit, it saves almost $30 off pricing the parts individually.
Once you've become a full member (>11 posts) we'd all love to see some pics of your motorhome.
Most Rock Crawler guys I know have a special place in their hearts for 1st and 2nd gen Hilux/Pickup Toyota Motorhomes, even if its not 4WD