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Alright ill google it. Dont send me to detention. Im guessin you've been doin this longer than iv been born though?..still learning. I appreciate the help you've given me and ill admit i could've done a little more research...but i dont like bein called a noob. Sorry bout it and preciate the links, they helped.
I'm 19 bud, been doing it for 4 years. Just giving you advice, especially if you ever decide to go over to pirate, they'll rip you a new one for asking questions without searching.
I've seen alot of guys just basically run a thick and a thin shim on top and bottom. And 90% of the time, thats all you need. I've also seen guys use feeler gauges around the axle shaft where it sticks out through the spindle. That will tell you if its all centered up. And just use a scale to check the resistance on the knuckle.
My Dad has rebuilt a few of these and helped me out ALOT. So im pretty confident its ok...BUT when we were putting the hubs back on i made the gears come apart from the spring i really dont care haha i got a long way to go for this truck to be back on any trails. The thing is the hub wouldn't lock on the driver side even when it was in one piece. Any ideas about that? Im lookin around online for an answer.
For the hub, if the hub gear isn't latched onto the hub dial spring, it just stays in the locked position. Since the spring can't pull it back off the axle shaft. So, it just stays there. As for the other hub not engaging, try putting it together with the hub in the locked position. As for the using feeler gauges on the axle, I've been told, that you use a feeler gauge to determine if the axle is centered in the spindle. If it's too high or too low you need to adjust shims. But you also have to think about the brass bushings that the axles go through. I've only read about it, I've never done it. It think it was one of those WhiteTrash postings from years ago.
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