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Are the drive lines front and rear line up properly ? I'm sorry I don't know the proper terminology but both ends of the drive lines have yokes for the u-joints. These need to be aligned.
When I lifted the rear of my truck I had a similar issue when decelerating or braking, I found that not only had my caster changed but my toe was also pitched in a little too much by almost 1/8 of an inch from what I generally set it at. So since I was going to lift the front I went ahead and did that, well that fixed my toe but the caster was still out so I shimmed the front and it went away.
What year is it? Does it vibrate with the front driveshaft OUT?
It's probably either driveline vibration where the angle is a little steeper or something may be a little loose or springs soft and let your axle wrap up when u get on it and binding the u joint up. Usually if its driveline vibration though when u let off and it cruises w no load it will make a grinding sound
its probably due to axle rap , when you accelerate the torque will change the drive line angle , i had a samurai with stock springs and an axle flip and it vibrated bad under acceleration because the stock springs were too weak , put an axle rap control bar on it and it was good , or you could change the pinion angle to acomadate for the rap , just my opinion with my experiences
If the vibration was coming from the front end, you'd have to be in 4wd, have a bent wheel, or loose wheel bearings to cause that.
If you only have 1" of free travel from fully collapsed on the driveline with it in the mounted position and sitting normally, you could be bottoming out the driveshaft with suspension flex while running down the road. Maybe you could spray some paint on the splines on the male end of the slip yoke as it is sitting still, and then drive it and see how much paint is stripped off from the suspension flexing and shortening your drive shaft to see if your drive shaft is bottoming out in certain instances.
The more I think about it it sounds like driveline vibration for sure. I put a 8 in lift on a short bed Chevy once. I bought a nv4500 for it and a adapter for a 10 spline 205 t-case. The lift was all spring a super lift kit no blocks no body lift mine acted like yours I woulda bet the farm the tranny was bad I lowerd the t-case 3 in messed w pinion angle it didn't change. I would drive it and stop get out and feel my u joints the pinion the back of the t- case to check for something hot it was always the back of the tcsase. I got a high angle 1 ton cv shaft and the problem was cured. If your getting a vibration something in your drive line will be hot. Drive it for 2-3 minutes at the speed it vibrates pull over make sure you have your gloves on and check those spots I mentioned above and also where you 2 piece drive shaft goes together one spot will b considerably hotter than the others then we can go from there. If u had a spare front shaft you could rig up a temporary cv joint rear shaft to see if that helped it jst lay it in a piece of angle iron and weld it up it won't be balanced but it will b straight and put the cv to the tcsase not the pinion. If it were mine that's how I would go about it. Throwing money at a high angle cv is very expensive if you are not 100% sure that's the problem let us know where you think the " hot spot " is. Good luck don't forget the gloves !!!
since I can’t find a double cardan joint for the rear, can I just run and single joint up front? I have a TG dual case setup plate and my front drive shaft has a double cardan setup.. but my question is, would I have any problems putting a single joint up front and transfer the double cardan to the rear??
Honestly, i know a lot of people who run cv's on the rear shaft, and non-cv on the front.That is my setup and i have no vibrations at all.If i were you i would go to pick and pull and see if you can't find an ifs front cv. Keep in mind the bolt patterns are different between a 4cyl cv and a v6 cv.As well as the bolt patterns are different between either cv and the non cv pattern. So it would be best to get the same one you already have, unless you have multiple drilled flanges.You could swap the cv off the front and onto the rear, but then you are going to have to pay to have a shop rework two shafts instead of just the broken one.You can give my work a call and talk to Jesse. I am not sure what our availability on cv's are but i believe we have some we could use.If you wanted us to build your rear shaft, we could put a different cv on it/clearance it/etc. Whatever you decide you want.http://www.highangledriveline.com/
Are the locking hubs in good shape? I had one locked all the time did darn near the same thing along with massive death wobble.
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