Author Topic: 1990 2WD Frame Plated, 4WU 3 Link Front (frame off build)  (Read 30209 times)

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THK Matt

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1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

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tgmaul88

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One is IFS lock out dial and gear  I think and the other is SFA    the aisin one is a IFS dial  the asco is a SFA

tgmaul88

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notice the raised dial      and the bodyh it self if its IFS is different

x250f23x [OP]

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Thanks dudes, Yea with some research I found that ASCO = Aisin Seiki Corp is what my research is telling me. Asco was before Aisin. They can be found with blue and red caps. Also it looks like the IFS locking hubs are the same as the Axle locks, as long as you change the burf engagement hub gear. The IFS is a 27 spline while the axle locking hub is a 30 spline. That's what I've been finding online

THK Matt

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yep!!!!


the aisin isnt necessarily just ifs. all 4 of the SFA's i had... had the AISIN hubs on them. (3 85's and an 83)
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

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TacoRunner

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I think it Nissan.
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mudmaster

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My 80 had Asco, my 83 has Aisin.
Time to go wheelin!

x250f23x [OP]

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Question for the brake nerds...
  Why in every diagram I see, the front brake lines are plumbed separate, while the rear has one line to the axle, and then a T fitting splitting it to each caliper?
 
 Can one line run to the front axle and then T off to each caliper? I don't see why not.
« Last Edit: May 26, 2013, 10:13:38 AM by x250f23x »

pumkin toy

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Question for the brake nerds...
  Why in every diagram I see, the front brake lines are plumbed separate, while the rear has one line to the axle, and then a T fitting splitting it to each caliper?
 
 Can one line run to the front axle and then T off to each caliper? I don't see why not.

when I three linked the front of my 4runner I ran a single line to the front axle and t-fitting to split to each caliper. it worked fine for me
97 4runner Limited
4runner Build Thread http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=54076.1410#lastPost

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x250f23x [OP]

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when I three linked the front of my 4runner I ran a single line to the front axle and t-fitting to split to each caliper. it worked fine for me

 I'm sold :burnout:

x250f23x [OP]

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Gun'a see about getting the other side on tomorrow.

x250f23x [OP]

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 Sooo.. I'd like to run this setup

But I'm wondering about the bore sizes

 If I run the 1 1/8" bore, the pedal would be harder to push, but less travel. If I run a smaller bore like the 5/8", the pedal pressure will be less but the throw will be greater. Anyone have knowledge/ experience? Also, do I need to keep the front and rear masters cylinders bores the same? And the clutch, anyone know the best bore size for the clutch?
« Last Edit: May 27, 2013, 05:36:02 PM by x250f23x »

x250f23x [OP]

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Other side..

pumkin toy

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shock towers look sweet! I like them more now that they are on the truck
97 4runner Limited
4runner Build Thread http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=54076.1410#lastPost

Started my own fab business recently check out the website  www.c4fabrication.com

also follow C4Fab on facebook for regular updates on projects. http://www.facebook.com/pages/C4-Fabrication/454285357953823

x250f23x [OP]

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shock towers look sweet! I like them more now that they are on the truck

 Thanks! I wish I had more to show but I took it easy today.

THK Matt

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Message Twisted Minis (user name on here) about the master cyliners, he uses that setup a lot.
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

Instagram @ taytershubby13

Slolyfe

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Looking great dude. Im interested in your break question also.
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OOPS

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Question for the brake nerds...
  Why in every diagram I see, the front brake lines are plumbed separate, while the rear has one line to the axle, and then a T fitting splitting it to each caliper?
 
 Can one line run to the front axle and then T off to each caliper? I don't see why not.
Front brakes are not plumbed separate, there is a "T" under the MC then a separate line to each caliper. All you would be doing is moving the "T" down stream.

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x250f23x [OP]

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Front brakes are not plumbed separate, there is a "T" under the MC then a separate line to each caliper. All you would be doing is moving the "T" down stream.

 Got'a love the forums! Thanks! 

jenyus

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Sooo.. I'd like to run this setup

But I'm wondering about the bore sizes

 If I run the 1 1/8" bore, the pedal would be harder to push, but less travel. If I run a smaller bore like the 5/8", the pedal pressure will be less but the throw will be greater. Anyone have knowledge/ experience? Also, do I need to keep the front and rear masters cylinders bores the same? And the clutch, anyone know the best bore size for the clutch?

id choose greater throw and easier to push. when i did my diesel samurai crawler i used a chevy clutch master but had to mount it low, have a 1" throw and its super hard to press down, clutch leg gets worn out by the end of the day.

Twisted Minis

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You do not want 5/8" for brakes, you will not build enough pressure. But 5/8" will work fine for your clutch, as long as the amount of throw you need is reasonable.

1 1/8" is probably bigger than you need, but I can't really say without knowing the surface area of your pistons.

I generally run a smaller master in the rear. The size difference will depend on the surface area of your pistons, and wether you have drums or discs out back.

Hope this helps.
2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins

Twisted Minis

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Nice looking project too.
2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins

x250f23x [OP]

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You do not want 5/8" for brakes, you will not build enough pressure. But 5/8" will work fine for your clutch, as long as the amount of throw you need is reasonable.

1 1/8" is probably bigger than you need, but I can't really say without knowing the surface area of your pistons.

I generally run a smaller master in the rear. The size difference will depend on the surface area of your pistons, and wether you have drums or discs out back.

Hope this helps.

Nice looking project too.

 Thanks! Yea this gets me started in the right direction. I will be running IFS calipers front and drum in the back for a few months until I start the rear, which I plan to run the same IFS calipers. I can live without good rear brakes until it get changed over to disk.
 I was thinking about getting 7/8" bore on everything and just seeing how they work out :dunno:


Twisted Minis

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Do you know how big the pistons are on the IFS calipers?

You will actually want a larger master cylinder for the rear brakes, so that they build less pressure than the front with an even amount of pedal throw. There is a balance bar that will help you fine tune things from there. If you can tell me what size the piston is, I can figure out the surface area and see how much volume you will need. Are they dual piston or single?

Your best bet would probably be to buy the masters set up for your final brake set up, and you can use the balance bar to limit the pressure to the rear drums for now.

Just guessing, you will probably end up with 7/8" rear, 3/4" front and 3/4" or 5/8" for your clutch. But I would like to know more about the calipers before suggesting anything. Also what size brake lines? 3/16" or 1/4"?
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x250f23x [OP]

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 I know the calipers are dual. I'll get the measurements tonight of the pistons. As for the line size, that's still open. Do you have a recommendation? Might I get more feel from a larger line?

Addition:
 From a quick look I found this on Pirate:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/275232-ifs-caliper-piston-size.html

 Being that MC sells the V6 type calipers, I can plan on the larger pistons at 1 11/16"
« Last Edit: May 29, 2013, 05:50:44 PM by x250f23x »

Twisted Minis

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You just need to move more volume with a larger line. There isn't much of a difference really, but it's nice to know line size if I calculations are kind of in the middle of two bore sizes that can tip the scales.

I generally run 3/16" lines, less pedal movement, more adjustment. But if you need a lot of volume for the calipers, I run 1/4". I generally use Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 3/16" lines though, and have plenty of brakes and short brake throw.

If you want more brake throw, 1/4" lines are good. I have more experience setting brakes up for race cars and street driven cars, so you may want different brake characteristics.
2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins

x250f23x [OP]

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 One of the calipers is the V6 type ( 1 11/16" ), the other is the older style big and small piston:gap:
I plan on getting new ones anyways. There will be 4 pistons per caliper, two apposing sides at 1 11/16" per piston. At some time there will be 4 calipers, one on each side. As for line size, whatever you recommend for this application. I'm thinking the Wilwood pedals that are 6.25:1 will be best, and they look better too!

Edit: 4 pistons on each wheel, not calipers  :smack:
« Last Edit: Jun 27, 2013, 05:59:09 PM by x250f23x »

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3RZ, LC engineering Turbo kit, R151, Dual Ultimate, Yota axles-5:29s, Spartan front, LSD Rear

Twisted Minis

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That thread is a bit confusing to me. Are yours two or four piston calipers? Basically I just need the OD of all pistons in one caliper, and how many of them you will eventually run and I can figure it out.

6.25:1 is a good ratio.
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x250f23x [OP]

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Sorry.
 Each piston is 1 11/16". 4 pistons per caliper. 4 calipers in total.


 
 
 
 
 

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