Author Topic: 1990 2WD Frame Plated, 4WU 3 Link Front (frame off build) (Read 47085 times)

x250f23x · « **on:** Nov 20, 2012, 11:22:16 AM »

I started this build months and months ago. Basically I had the same old, same old SAS kit just like everyone else. I need to move my steering box forward a little and some how I was swept into a frame off build. Long story short..

Starting from the beginning ....

x250f23x · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 20, 2012, 11:58:39 AM »

x250f23x · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 20, 2012, 12:01:33 PM »

x250f23x · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 20, 2012, 12:05:47 PM »

x250f23x · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 20, 2012, 12:08:00 PM »

IMMUDDY · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 20, 2012, 01:16:46 PM »

That frame work looks sweet.

tgmaul88 · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 20, 2012, 06:33:30 PM »

keep going keep going the build looks great super beef

x250f23x · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 21, 2012, 10:38:32 AM »

4 Wheel Underground and Radflow advertisement.
The shocks have Brian's (4WU) special valving to work with his kit.

Nimyad · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 21, 2012, 11:08:47 AM »

Very nice

how heavy did you make that frame exactly?

x250f23x · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 21, 2012, 11:46:42 PM »

Quote from: nimyad on Nov 21, 2012, 11:08:47 AM

Very nice how heavy did you make that frame exactly?

All the plates didn't weight more then 80 lbs. Then I burned one full 12.5 lbs spool and then some. I'd say like ehh.. 100 lbs at the most, for now.

89sastoyo · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 22, 2012, 06:40:53 PM »

This things dope dude very clean I like it

x250f23x · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 03:55:10 PM »

I'm going to try something like this and hopefully it comes out nice. We shall see!

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 04:58:53 PM »

Frame work looks very nice! I'll be watching this build $Beer Chug\'n$

4runner · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 05:05:09 PM »

Your frame is looking pimp. How thick of plate are you using to box it in?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 09:56:18 PM »

Wow, I will be watching this build for sure!

x250f23x · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 11:19:26 PM »

Quote from: 4runner on Nov 27, 2012, 05:05:09 PM

Your frame is looking pimp. How thick of plate are you using to box it in?

11 Gauge or .125

x250f23x · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 11:25:39 PM »

Got my PAC springs tonight! Put one together for S&G, then plated and cleaned the frame where the stock motor mount brackets where located.

Thanks for all the good comments!

BUDDERS · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 28, 2012, 07:42:34 AM »

What motor are you planning on using in this beast?

x250f23x · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 28, 2012, 09:25:42 AM »

Quote from: BUDDERS on Nov 28, 2012, 07:42:34 AM

What motor are you planning on using in this beast?

Nothing special, just a plain 'ole 22RE. The goal is to keep it street legal (CA).

fj-rankenstein · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 28, 2012, 08:56:00 PM »

what a great start!!! i like how you left all of the plug welds untouched to look like rivits.. i really want to get the 4wu kit for my project too.. need money.. a whole lotta spending money..

x250f23x · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 28, 2012, 11:53:46 PM »

Quote from: fj-rankenstein on Nov 28, 2012, 08:56:00 PM

what a great start!!! i like how you left all of the plug welds untouched to look like rivits.. i really want to get the 4wu kit for my project too.. need money.. a whole lotta spending money..

Thanks! Rivets was exactly the same thing I thought when I saw them too. I was going to grind them flush but I like the way they look. It's a real unique look from whats out there.
You definitely get what you pay for with the 4WU kits, well worth the cost.

slabcs · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 29, 2012, 08:34:28 AM »

I think you're on the right track here. Making the mounts at the tcase crossmember match the width of your motor mounts is smart, and you've beefed up the frame, so that shouldn't be flexing and causing a bind either. What material are you planning on using for the mounts? Stock soft stuff, bushings, solid? Looks like you solid mounted the cab while you had it off too.

Nice work so far.

x250f23x · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 29, 2012, 11:31:23 AM »

Quote from: slabcs on Nov 29, 2012, 08:34:28 AM

I think you're on the right track here. Making the mounts at the tcase crossmember match the width of your motor mounts is smart, and you've beefed up the frame, so that shouldn't be flexing and causing a bind either. What material are you planning on using for the mounts? Stock soft stuff, bushings, solid? Looks like you solid mounted the cab while you had it off too.

Nice work so far.

Thanks! I believe you are the first person to say this is smart. I Knight you!
Just about everyone else gives me that look, you know, that look, where I'm the crazy one. After I went to your schools! After I went to your churches! oops n/m... all I wanted was a ~~Pepsi~~ Coke
I'm using LC eng. street motor mounts for the front (motor), so why not match them in the rear too, because I love symmetry

. The whole idea (as you see) is to keep everything flexing and moving the same; eliminate torquing in the drive train, not that its a big deal but.. I was really considering to just buy an FROF T-Case mount and call it done but, I hate underachieving/ undermining myself. I have not found anyone using these LC mounts so I don't know what to expect. Their claim is "comfort of an OEM mount" yet they're mechanically locked internally with a gap, from ripping like the stockers do. .. we'll see.
Yeah I solid mounted the cab (front only as of now) because I want to run a internal cage that ties into the cab.. someday when the cash tree starts growing. My cash tree is like a bonsai right now LOL

jrock · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 29, 2012, 02:09:40 PM »

With that awesome riveted frame look, might you continue the theme into the rest of the build? Could be freakin sweet

Dingman. · « **Reply #24 on:** Nov 29, 2012, 09:58:33 PM »

Pics wont show up on my phone, so posting so i can check out later.

x250f23x · « **Reply #25 on:** Nov 30, 2012, 02:44:37 PM »

Quote from: jrock on Nov 29, 2012, 02:09:40 PM

With that awesome riveted frame look, might you continue the theme into the rest of the build? Could be freakin sweet

It would be cool looking for sure, but that would be a lot of work. In order to get a uniform bead that large that looks flush to the work piece, you have to weld 90 degrees from the deck in circles and HOT! If you have any kind of angle, the weld puddle acts like water and moves to the lowest area. I had to reposition the frame quite a few times when I filled all those rosette holes. To say I'm glad that part of the build is done is an understatement.
Now don't remind me that I still have to finish the too