Author Topic: break issues (Read 2256 times)

80hilux4x4 · « **on:** Dec 23, 2011, 09:18:22 PM »

Ok been having issuez with the breake pedal going flat after a few mins for driving does not have any issues after being parked. Olny during driving after not using the breaks for a min of two the pedal will go almost to the floor and to get any stoping power i have to pump the pedal a few times. Though maybe they needed some bleeding tried that a few times with no luck so yesterday i put a new master clyinder in and got everytging bleed and did a few times and went for a drive and had the same problem after a few mins of driving so did a buch more bleeding and some more today i cant figure this out just rebuilt the front end about 4 mounts ago with new caliper and all and just did the rear shoes and wheel cylinders. Sokinda stumped at the moment..

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 23, 2011, 10:29:43 PM »

did you replace both calipers? not ragging on you but ive seen this done. are the bleeder screws on the front calipers at the top of the caliper? ive seen some come in for break problems and the owner put the caipers on the wrong side so the bleader is at bottom...leaving all air in caliper causing soft pedal and to seem like non power breaks but when blead it looks like you getn good fluid no air.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 24, 2011, 04:13:35 AM »

Did you bench bleed the new master and did you bleed the lspv?

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 24, 2011, 08:07:23 AM »

Yes bloth front caliper r new with bleeders at the top and i have deleted the lspv or whatever that thing was in the rear. And yes also bench bleed the new master cylinder..

junya92toy · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 24, 2011, 08:41:01 AM »

make sure the res is full, and ill go crack the bleeder really slow and watch for bubbles, gravity bleed it by myself at times
where did you get the new master? aftermarket ones can be crap right off the shelf

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 24, 2011, 08:54:43 AM »

Res always full i keep a close eye on that espeically durning bleeding.. ya never know if i can't come up with some kinda solution i may try another master clyinder. The oone i just bought was from carquest it says asian on it but definatly probly a rebuilt asian? Just in carguest box not sure had to put my old resovor on it to.

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 25, 2011, 12:45:21 PM »

Any sugestions

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 25, 2011, 07:46:18 PM »

Once you installed it where did you start bleeding the system?

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 25, 2011, 09:03:42 PM »

First off you must bench bleed the MC or air will get trapped.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but you want to start on the farthest spot and work your way forward, so bleed the LPSV 1st since it would be also the highest location, (I know you deleted yours), then the right rear, left rear, right front and then the left front. I've always with any vehicle done it that way.

I've seen some other suggestions here that have worked for posters here like breaking open the lines at the MC and see if there is air trapped there.

Did you adjust the pushrod to the MC?

Others have said that they thought their MC was bad only to find that the wheel cylinders were the problem all along. I would assume that the front calipers may be able to cause an issue.

Now did you completely remove the lpsv or did you just tie it up. Could have an issue there.

Old soft lines can bulge and give a spongy feel.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 01:56:31 AM »

yes you are correct. must always start wth the farthest distance from the mc and work your way closer.

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 12:00:51 PM »

Yes started at the farthest point wich would be drivers rear and worked forward. Also as said before i did bench bleed the mc first and the lspv is totaly gone delted no more. Didn't need to adjust push rodd at all. This problem only occurs after drivin for a few mins with out using breaks then when u goto use them very soft and needs to be pumped to get any real stoping power but like said before it can sit some where for hours or days and jump in the breaks r nice a storng and stiff pedal but start driving for a few mins and they get soft

79toy20r · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 09:53:41 PM »

Could need a new booster. Are you just gravity bleeding or is someone pushing on the pedal for you?

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 07:44:50 AM »

Pushing the pedel

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 07:49:22 AM »

This may be a stupid question, but when you eliminated the lspv, did you block the T off ? Did you plumb in a new prop valve ?

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 08:30:47 AM »

No i just unbolted it from the frame and axle and the solid break line running down the frame then hooked rear break line into solid line which used to be hooked i to lspv had it like that for a few months

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 08:58:03 AM »

Here's a semi-recent conversation on the subject.

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 08:28:02 AM »

Ya still on subject and still having problems

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 08:31:44 AM »

Quote from: 4RunnerChevy on Dec 27, 2011, 08:58:03 AM

Here's a semi-recent conversation on the subject.

Oops forgot the link

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=80332.0;highlight=lspv

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 09:41:48 AM »

Have done the same thing as a feww guys in the link u posted. I not sure i guess maybe new break lines and a booster is all thats left to. Put new

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 31, 2011, 08:33:10 AM »

Well after all the half gallon of break fluid bleed the truck a few days ago i noticed i had a pasanges front wheel hud bearings had enough play to where i could move the tire around a good half inch or more so took it all apart fepacked the bearings put it back together nice a snug. Bam the breaks work super bomb now. So with the wheel bearing being loose. Points at the rotor being able to move around in the caliper and puingsh the pad far away casuing me to have to pump the pedal to get that caliper to expand enough to bite.
Glad i got it figured out kinda an odd one.
But thanks for all the pointers and helpful hints eveyone much apprectation._______

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 31, 2011, 08:46:34 AM »

glad you figured it out. I would have never guessed wheel bearings.

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 31, 2011, 08:57:19 AM »

Ya me ether then we were at a gas station airin down getting ready from a little mob and was doing a walk around on the truck and found that cuz i would never have even though that would have anything to do with my problem in tell u sit back and think whats going on in there with a loose wheel bearing. Oh well live and learn beter now all i need is a few cheap parts like new bushing a greasable shackles and extended break lines then its finally time for a locker much needed thinking i am gonna run a spartain locker hopefull have there by the end of jan
Thanks everyone

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 31, 2011, 10:17:39 AM »

i was gonna ask if a wheel was loose on the hub but with they way you were checking things i figured it was good shoulda spoke up sooner i guess

80hilux4x4 · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 31, 2011, 05:15:25 PM »

Haha ya good looking out tho not something that came to mind obviously when i was think hmm what could it be. Sometime the craziest things get u stumped man i swear

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 31, 2011, 05:20:44 PM »

i kno that i have some pretty crazy

go on with my trucks

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