Author Topic: ARB vs Electric Locker (Read 9469 times)

90slvpup · « **on:** Feb 07, 2005, 08:59:21 PM »

I have stock 4cyl 3rds and i want to upgrade to high pinion and v6 thirds with 5.29's and a switchable locker front and rear. What is the best choice for dependability and strength the Electric Or ARB. Also which one is easier to install and less cost in the long run??
Thanks for the help

guywithuglyyota · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 07, 2005, 10:13:35 PM »

I have researched this to death whe I was trying to decide. And honestly I just got my arb 4.88 thirds installed recently and have yet to try them. But what I have found is that the electric install requires the axle housing to be shaved on the right side where the shift motor resides. The procedure looks fairly easy to accomplish, its all right here:

http://molmed.umassmed.edu/~kdb/locker/locker.html

I know that toyota sells complete assembled units with a warranty, however I dont think they offer 5.29 gears (4.88 lowest)
The arb requires an external air source ( I opted for the arb compressor to maintain warranty and simplicity) I also looked to see any reliability problems with the arb vs electric. Seems like the arb is rock solid as long as the install is done correctly and the air supply does not exceed 120 psi ( i think) The electric motor unit looks to be slightly vulnerable hanging off the side of the third member however a few fab companies out there sell mini skidplates for this. I did not install my lockers, I bought Marlins already setup units since I dont have the patience or tools for such an endeavor. But in a nutshell I think they are pretty much dead even with the exception that the electric can be manually overidden in the event of electrical failure, the arb cannot. On various forums I read how some guys have had ARB units for atleast five years with lots of abuse with no problems. If air line damage is your concearn, they also offer stainless lines. But the ARB makes a very cool psssssssst!! sound when the blowoff valve actuates when you hit the switch!

90slvpup · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 08, 2005, 05:45:41 PM »

Thanks For the help!!!

FIREBALL · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 08, 2005, 06:04:06 PM »

I've run both the ARB and the electric. I now run the e locker, converted to cable. As far as strength, I have to agree, they are about even. I like the simplicity of the elocker, and the ability to lock or unlock in the event of an electrical problem. The only down fall I see is the housing mod, which is fairly easy, and they don't lock and unlock as fast as the ARB. The position of the motor isn't really a problem, the design is pretty tough.
The ARB works faster, and is strong, but if you develop an internal air leak, you have to pull the whole third and tear everything apart to fix it. Happened to my last rig. I ran my ARB off of my on board air compressor and it worked very well. Check up on the actual operating pressure. I think it is as low as 25psi or so. The lower the pressure that still will operate the locker the better. You will be less likely to do internal damage.l(blow a seal)
Either are a good choice. I bought my high pinion elocker complete and new from Toyota, through Marlin and it was under 1k. You can find them in the wrecking yards sometimes for much cheaper, and the rear is much easier to find used.

Mike D · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 08, 2005, 09:02:44 PM »

marlin just raised their 5.29 e-lockers 100 bucks

guywithuglyyota · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 27, 2005, 01:45:28 AM »

If you have not decided yet, I must recommend the e-locker! I have having a nightmare with my brand new arb. Two blown seals in a row, not fun when this is happening after only a few miles of driving. My first impressions of this system are very poor. Electric seems simple, the housing mod looks much easier than constantly pulling your third for a seal change!

Weldo · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 28, 2005, 07:53:11 PM »

Anyone familiar with OX lockers. They look cool, cable operated, not air lines or wires, nice and simple. They whole things are made from billet steel, carrier and all, no castings (not that castings are weak). Wish they'd make 'em for Toyota axles...

guywithuglyyota · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 28, 2005, 08:22:58 PM »

Yeah when i was into the jeep thing (got over that quickly) I was gonna go with a dana 44 ox locker. Never heard any opinions but it definately looks like a stout setup.

FIREBALL · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 01, 2005, 04:47:57 PM »

The toy e-lockers are very easy to convert to cable, and you can recoup some money by selling the locker motors on ebay or ....

bkg · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 01, 2005, 06:17:49 PM »

I love my ARB's. Never had a problem with the sets in my white truck, the rear on the 4Runner is leaking. No big deal, just needs a seal.

can't tell from the original post, but it almost sounds like there's a goal of HP in the rear.. don't do it - it won't last.

90slvpup · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 01, 2005, 06:24:41 PM »

yeah i just got some ARbs for front and rear it is gunna be sweet!!

guywithuglyyota · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 01, 2005, 06:38:05 PM »

I cant get mine to stop leaking, seals are fine. Marlins shop even tore it apart and it seems to be the collar that houses the seals is cocked or something. Im having quite the headache with my rear. HP front arb works great

eyezlee · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 02, 2005, 08:30:35 AM »

I have 4cyl arb's front and rear. No major problems, just a leaky o-ring early on in the rear. Replaced that and no problems since. 4 years and 17 thousand miles on them. I love 'em.

Weldo · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 02, 2005, 12:58:36 PM »

Quote from: FIREBALL on Mar 01, 2005, 04:47:57 PM

The toy e-lockers are very easy to convert to cable, and you can recoup some money by selling the locker motors on ebay or ....

Yea? that's cool. I always liked the idea of cable operation. Seems like it would be fool proof, ya know, the simplest way is often the best, and it doesn't get any simpler than cable operated. No wires or compressors, just less things to screw up.

FATB0Y · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 02, 2005, 02:33:37 PM »

Quote from: Weldo on Mar 02, 2005, 12:58:36 PM

Yea? that's cool. I always liked the idea of cable operation. Seems like it would be fool proof, ya know, the simplest way is often the best, and it doesn't get any simpler than cable operated. No wires or compressors, just less things to screw up.

Wot he said

FIREBALL · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 02, 2005, 09:04:35 PM »

so far the only prob has been they don't actuate quite as fast as air, but no big deal.

BigMike · « **Reply #16 on:** May 17, 2005, 10:10:53 AM »

My rear E-Locker has been working out great. No air lines, no annoying air pump. Wiring wasn't any harder than wiring in a pump, relay, and switch for an ARB.

At the Hammers I never had any trouble with it not engaging or disengaging. When ever I wanted to turn it on, it came right on. The way I drive is I'll keep Crawling until I have a lack of traction, but I won't stop, I'll keep Crawling and play with the steering some, and then if I can't get it, then I'l throw the Locker switch. So, since my rear tires are turning, it engages immediately and away I go.

Also, I've engaged my locker on the freeway so far at 65 MPH now. The Locker is completely safe to engage at nearly any speed since it will not engage unless it's able to -- which means its safe to. I checked my friends 3rd gen 4Runner's manual with e-locker and I couldn't find anything about a minimum engagement speed.

If you try to engage an air locker at +20, you might be screwed. I know this isn't important, but hey it's a 'vs.' thread

I've seen ARB air lines get condensation while wheeling in the snow and they quit working. Also air lines can leak or tear on rocks and such.. So if you go ARB, make sure you protect the Air Lines..

guywithuglyyota · « **Reply #17 on:** May 17, 2005, 11:44:24 AM »

I heard a similar thing about freezing ARB lines. Since Im moving to AK im a little nervous about it, a few guys I spoke to up there said they do freeze up, especially in the neg temps (buuuuurrrr!) Anyway if I could do it all over again I would do e-locker, seems to be less trouble prone.

Bloomcounty · « **Reply #18 on:** May 20, 2005, 08:39:36 AM »

Where are you guys gettin the cable conversion for the E-locker ??

FIREBALL · « **Reply #19 on:** May 25, 2005, 07:19:30 AM »

Home built. Downey does make a kit, but it's over a$100 bucks for each axle.
Do a search for cable locker pics on here.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #20 on:** May 25, 2005, 11:50:18 AM »

My truck is a daily driver, but not a long distance every day driver, so I opted for a detroit rear and trutrac front (to reduce stress on birfields); however, I have been around several different people running ARBs and I am not impressed.

Most of the people that I know have had serious problems that we way beyond air leaks. At least two of them had the ARB come apart, one was sent an incomplete locker from ARB, told it was complete and then had no locker that year in Moab. One guy has killed a couple of them in his 1/2 Surburban with BIG tires, but he drives very nice and easy so I can't blame the drivetrain size completely. I work with a guy that took his ARB apart and had it drilled for double the fasteners to hold the case together because he didn't want it to split apart.

Some people get them installed and they work perfectly, but from what I have seen the failures tend to be on the rear axles of daily drivers, the front axles don't seem to have the same problems since they are rarely used.

Ignoring reliability issues, I would choose to have a limited slip when unlocked because it would be possible to go much farther on the trail without fulling locking the differentials and greatly increasing the stress in the drivetrain.

I thought that there was a new locker that was similar in design to the ARB but it was electric (Powertrax?) and didn't require any special housings.

Simple is always more reliable.

LA_Fred · « **Reply #21 on:** May 25, 2005, 12:11:58 PM »

Elocker + cables sounds sweet although I love my ARB's. Might be a bit cheaper too.

germ · « **Reply #22 on:** May 25, 2005, 02:07:16 PM »

Personally, I love my ARB's. Wouldn't trade them for the world (well....maybe). Installation was straight forward, and they work like a charm. The only problem I had was that a relay fizzled, and the compressor started running even with the switch off. Replaced the Relay, and no problems since. I didn't like the modifications that were needed to do the E-locker install, and I got a screaming deal on the ARB's,

so the choice was simple for me. I don't think you could go wrong with either set-up. The other nice thing about the ARB is that if you plumb it right, you can have on-board air fairly easily, although most folks I know don't recommend using the compressor for tires...although it would work in a pinch.

Erik $Beer Chug\'n$

toy4crawlin · « **Reply #23 on:** May 25, 2005, 03:23:40 PM »

GO CABLE !

Most reliable on the market
easiest install

OX locker

blackdiamond · « **Reply #24 on:** May 25, 2005, 03:33:39 PM »

Quote from: toy4crawlin on May 25, 2005, 03:23:40 PM

GO CABLE !

Most reliable on the market
easiest install

OX locker

Does OX Locker have a toy application? Don't think they do.

dirtyskivies · « **Reply #25 on:** May 28, 2005, 12:51:00 PM »

i have an Elocker on my daily driver, its SLOW! to engage. i have an arb in the front of my wheeler and wouldnt use anything else. id use an Elocker in the rear, since you can lock it up at the begining of the trail and forget about it...too slow for the front!

VWRunner · « **Reply #26 on:** Jun 05, 2005, 06:46:35 PM »

I just retrofitted an e-locker in the rear of my '88 4Runner and it engages really fast. I just push the button and it clicks in immediately. If the splines on the sliding collar are not aligned perfectly and it doesn't click right off the bat, I just creep forward (or backward) while slightly turning and it clicks right into place.

90slvpup [OP]

90slvpup [OP]

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