Author Topic: First time build for me. Blue 1980 long-bed. Havin fun..... (Read 13536 times)

HogCanyonHopper · « **on:** Jul 24, 2010, 10:08:56 AM »

I am getting ready to buy the Trail-Flex kit. Would appreciate some advice/guidance. I have the high steer kit. I need to plan for axle prep, spring hanger mounting, IFS box mounting and all the associated cutting, grinding, welding that is involved. Its all new to me but I'm havin' lots of fun. Hope to get up some pictures. More later.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 11:31:05 AM »

I love my 20r. I would rather drive a '79 or and '80 than any other I have had. Wheel On!

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 12:09:58 PM »

Yup. Gotta figure out the suspension. 4 or 5" lift? i need to start prepping the axle. i.e. cut off Johnny joint bracket, perches, etc. Any advice or tips

pumkin toy · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 12:15:34 PM »

go with 4" max lift IMO. any more than that and your truck will be way tall. Have you considered doing rear springs up front and chevy or ford springs in the rear? Rears up front will move your axle forward and get your tires out of the firewall which is nice to do before you put high steer on. My buddy and I ran ford explorer leaves in the rear and they work great! Plenty of flex and arent so long that you have to run a gay double shackle setup. Just some advice and tips!

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 12:38:42 PM »

Right on! Thanks for reply. What year ranges on the Ford springs do I look for? Chevy? Am I going to abandon all factory spring mounts, front and rear? Will I need the Marlin front spring hanger? Thanks for any and all help guys.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 03:14:10 PM »

Quote from: HogCanyonHopper on Jul 24, 2010, 12:38:42 PM

Right on! Thanks for reply. What year ranges on the Ford springs do I look for? Chevy? Am I going to abandon all factory spring mounts, front and rear? Will I need the Marlin front spring hanger? Thanks for any and all help guys.

I got my explorer springs off a 93 I think. idk a whole lot about the chevy setup, just search it on the forum and you will find plenty of info. Yes you will need to weld on new spring hangers for the rear, and I dont think you have to up front, but not 100% positive.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 24, 2010, 09:53:52 PM »

I think I am going with a 4" trail-flex. That will give me everything I need to hopefully git er done right the first time. The days are gettin' shorter and I need to get the suspension figured out, slap up the steering, and then move on to the diffs. More later. Woo-Hoo!!

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 09:20:14 AM »

O.K...So who can offer some good advice on the best approach for cutting off the old and applying the new..i.e.....what welder, size?.....theres good prices and selection on Amazon. I just need something to get the suspension done. I don't want to spend a bunch but it has to do the job. Thanks for any help

pumkin toy · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 11:41:35 AM »

cutting off the old stuff is pretty easy, I usually use a grinder with a cut off wheel. As far as welders go, the job can be done with a good quality 110V machine if thats all you can afford. My buddy has a miller 110V and it works great for everything so far. Ultimately a 220V is usually best if you can afford it. I have a Hobart Handler 187 (made by Miller) its a great machine and is affordable. Usually you can pick one up new for around 600 bucks.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 12:20:04 PM »

thanks pumkin! I was just looking at an ad on Craigs list for a Hobart 140. Guy wants $400.00, says hes only used it a couple of times

I have a DeWalt 4.5 in. grinder with a handful of cutting wheels. Guess I oughta just go at it. Thanks again..

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 12:31:17 PM »

yes , cutoff wheel on a grinder but i recommend using the slightly thicker cut off/grinding wheel, they are about half the thickness of a grinding wheel and dont fly apart like the thin cutoff wheels do.

wear

protection

OH and i prefer a stick welder myself

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 12:47:26 PM »

so, the stick welder is more the old-fashioned variety and the mig being a wire feed set-up w/ a gun? Thanks for the help. newbie here

Which is easiest to use for someone who has never welded before, such as myself?

pumkin toy · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 06:08:49 PM »

Quote from: HogCanyonHopper on Jul 25, 2010, 12:47:26 PM

so, the stick welder is more the old-fashioned variety and the mig being a wire feed set-up w/ a gun? Thanks for the help. newbie here

Which is easiest to use for someone who has never welded before, such as myself?

yes stick is old fashioned variety. MIG is easier for most people to learn and it is the most common way of building trucks. Mig is just easier to deal with, you dont have a foot long electrode sticking out when you try to get into tight areas and MIG usually lays down a nicer bead. Also its alot easier to weld thinner material with a MIG machine. anything 1/8" and smaller would be a huge pain in the ass to weld with a stick welder. You can probly find an old stick machine for cheap, but its worth the extra bucks to get a MIG machine because it has so much more versatility.
And as far as the cutoff wheels go, I would highly recommend the standard (thinner) steal cut off wheels. They cut through material alot faster and easier. I literally use them every day at work and if I had the choice I would always use them instead of the thicker ones.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 25, 2010, 06:25:03 PM »

Thanks again Pumkin. I think I'll go with a mig like your saying. Versatility

Now off fishin'.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 26, 2010, 05:27:53 PM »

So I cut the torque rod off today and ground flush. I noticed that the frame thickness varies on the inside where the IFS mount plate goes not allowing it to lay flush.

Anybody dealt with that or have any ideas.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 26, 2010, 06:29:28 PM »

I have always made my own frme plates so i'm not sure how the marlin ones fit, but you should be able to use a C-clamp or vice grip to conform it to the frame and then tack it in place. just clamp it in one area, tack it, then move over a bit and clamp it tight again. You should be able to get a tight fit that way.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 26, 2010, 06:50:01 PM »

Great! You are a big help

. Thanks a bunch.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 29, 2010, 10:15:58 AM »

Update..

Recently C-clamped the IFS box to the frame to find best position before trying to mark any holes for drilling.
I replaced upper and lower u-joints in steering shaft and attached it to the IFS to box just to eyeball how it looks. Seems like it going to work out nice.

I am awaiting arrival of a 4" Trail-Flex : :eyebrow:A friend w/welder is going to help with that

Any tips or suggestions w/Trail-Flex installation and anything else you think of are greatly appreciated.

Heres a couple of photos for y'all:
Motor has a LC Pro head and cam w/aluminum rocker assembly and a LC top hat

pumkin toy · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 29, 2010, 02:43:13 PM »

Finally posted some pics

engine looks good

GrnMachine · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 29, 2010, 10:40:17 PM »

nice engine! one of my buddies has a 22r built by lc and it hauls

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 30, 2010, 06:41:04 AM »

Thanks guys!

Thats a 20R. I hope to build a nice hybrid in the future or slap a 3RZ in.

I am hoping to get a call from Nick at Marlin today telling me my 4" Trail-Flex is on its way.

Anybody got any suggestions on engine cooling. Is the stock clutch fan and a new radiator gonna be enough

?

I have looked at the electric fans. I like the idea of having the ability to flip a switch when I need to. Just tryin' to get some ideas.

Thanks again!

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 30, 2010, 03:36:28 PM »

4" Trail-Flex is on the way.

And a free sweater. Representin' Marlin

GrnMachine · « **Reply #22 on:** Jul 30, 2010, 10:20:27 PM »

electric fans are nice. you can always put in a v6 radiator too. if thats not enough and you arent afraid to chop up your hood, hood vents help a ton. there are a few threads on the forum with some ideas

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=26228.0;highlight=hood+vent
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46211.0

gtoyonrocks · « **Reply #23 on:** Jul 30, 2010, 10:25:41 PM »

I run a stock clutch fan on my rock crawler, it has the v6 radiator and my motor is a hybrid. It has never gotten hot.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #24 on:** Jul 31, 2010, 09:20:58 AM »

Thanks

I will probably look for a V6 radiator at some point. I bought a replacement for the stock rad and that should suffice for now.

Another question: I am planning on doing my own diffs w/5.29's and probably ARB in rear (is that recommended for front too?). Specifically, what punch do I need to best deal w/lock nut thing on pinion nut. I just don't want to bugger the darn thing up beatin' on it w/the wrong punch

Any other diff rebuilding tips would be helpful.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #25 on:** Jul 31, 2010, 10:32:24 AM »

I had a 22r/20r hybrid in my last crawler. I used the stock clutch fan and stock radiator and never had a problem with it overheating. As far as diffs goes, If you can afford selectable lockers front and rear, then thats the way to go! Most people will put the selectable in the front if they can only afford one. Its nice to have the selectable up front because you can unlock it in tight situations and it makes it alot easier to steer. My 87 4runner has an e-locker out of a newer 4runner in the rear. It was already installed when I bought the rig, and I do like being able to unlock the rear when driving on the highway. Makes it have alot better road manners and it doesnt burn up tires nearly as fast around corners. For the pinion nut it doesnt really matter what you use. Just grab a punch and give it a good smack in the groove and you should be set to go!

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #26 on:** Jul 31, 2010, 11:16:43 AM »

Yeah, I am definitely going w/selectable on the diffs. If I don't, I will probably regret it later. How hard is it to install an e-locker in one of these first gens? Those are even better than an air locker?

As far as the punch for the pinion nut goes, I'll probably end up grabbin' one at Sears or somethin'. Thanks for the help

Oh yeah, since things are progressing, heres a couple morer pics:

SloCrawler · « **Reply #27 on:** Jul 31, 2010, 11:41:38 AM »

Good start. I can't wait to build a hybrid motor with 20r head. Mines on the 5 year plan.

gtoyonrocks · « **Reply #28 on:** Jul 31, 2010, 03:57:20 PM »

The hybrid is a nice set up for some added power on the cheap.

mayberry · « **Reply #29 on:** Jul 31, 2010, 08:21:18 PM »

the last picture has me stumped i cant figure out what is holding that truck in the air

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