Topic: drilling leafspring

[hi on lux]

in doing RUF, if one would drill a new hole , say, an inch next to the existing hole, is this safe or stupid?

since the short end of toyota truck rear leaves have 22" from center to end, goal is to have 23"

[8D3TOY]

Hard to do and will probably crack/brake when used.  I am sure it's been done though but when I tried to drill one once it was impossible to even get started, just killed the bit.  If you have the right bit and a drill press you will probably be able to do it.  I would think unless it was perfect you would also end up breaking the center pin.

[yotarunner85]

Try using Marlins spring perch  http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/parts/spring-perch  It is drilled with 3 hole to mount the springs in the stock location, 1 inch forward or 1 inch back.  Or All pro offroads axle relocation plate  http://www.allprooffroad.com/8489suspension/51  It has two holes to relocate it 3/4 or 1 inch.

[SloCrawler]

I heated up the springs with a torch and pressed a knew hole out on my Ruf. and did the spring perch on my f150 to move the axle

[kneedownnate]

Best thing to do would be redrill the factory perch, but next best would be the reloaction plates. 

[bleakhorizon]

drilling a hole isnt a problem..... but IMHO that stock hole would be a weak spot.... place were the spring is "thinner" in width by the diameter of the hole, alot of people want to drill the hole way further up the spring. (which also destroys pinion angle even more)......

In this situation where the hole is clamped under the spring plate you shouldn't have a problem as the spring wont flex when its tightened down. I would do it, but then again, i carry a spare main leaf when im more than an hour away from home lol....

[Steve_925]

drilling a hole isnt a problem..... but IMHO that stock hole would be a weak spot.... place were the spring is "thinner" in width by the diameter of the hole, alot of people want to drill the hole way further up the spring. (which also destroys pinion angle even more)......

x2

[zippo]

The springs are hardened that is why it's hard to drill. HEating them and letting the cool takes the temper out which makes is soft and drillable, but removes the spring. If done proper i don't think an extra hole would weaken it to much.

Take it to a good spring shop and they could prolly do it propper.

[MC387]

I had my RUF's drilled.  Using a good bit, slow speed and lube, it can be done.
Mine broke eventually.  Had a set of main leaves built by National spring.  They worked good.  Finally just went to aftermarket springs, and they are so much better.

[4RunnerChevy]

not advisable, but If I were to do it, I would go with Carbide.  I would also NOT heat the spring steel.

[hi on lux [OP]]

I had my RUF's drilled.  Using a good bit, slow speed and lube, it can be done.
Mine broke eventually.  Had a set of main leaves built by National spring.  They worked good.  Finally just went to aftermarket springs, and they are so much better.

so, your RUFs broke in a short span after redrilling?

I just thought of my stock 2 rear main leaves , that instead of just lying around, might be better if I used them in place of my 1mm thicker custom springs(7mm)... but the short end length of stock are 20" , current one installed is around 23".

btw, using/modifying front spring hanger is a must for more articulaton? or just to correct the caster angle created by the shorter "short end" of the spring pack? or both? as I noticed front springs have equal length from center to front and back on stock and other "conventional aftermarkets".