Author Topic: any possible way (Read 3598 times)

axled89 · « **on:** Jun 14, 2010, 05:28:08 PM »

is there any possible way on a 3.0 that one of the cams can be off time? after doing the a timing belt. and still run.

please help. and can the computer adjust the timing enough to make it run?

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 14, 2010, 08:30:33 PM »

On dohc engines you can have 1 or both off
so yes and the conp will not be able to compensate for that

Snowtoy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 15, 2010, 02:37:36 AM »

Yes it is possible. A member on another forum was having running issues w/a motor he had just purchased. After running through everything, he pulled the timing cover off to find this:

The motor ran fine at at idle but not under a load.

axled89 · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 19, 2010, 10:40:27 AM »

so there's no way at all. that the computer will let it run and just smell rich or leaned out or anything hu?

junya92toy · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 19, 2010, 10:45:48 AM »

Yes you can have it off, re do the belt

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 19, 2010, 04:08:04 PM »

no it will run, just sound out of time

Snowtoy · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 19, 2010, 07:57:40 PM »

Quote from: axled89 on Jun 19, 2010, 10:40:27 AM

so there's no way at all. that the computer will let it run and just smell rich or leaned out or anything hu?

It might turn over and run, but how well would have a lot to do with how far out of timing the gears were placed, and were they both placed the same way. The one above one was early and one was late.

The ecu can only adjust the timing w/in its set parameters, same w/the rich/lean air/fuel mixture, and only for properly installed/working equipment, not installer error/equipment failure. If one/both cams were off a little it might run alright, but if it was running the engine lean you would burn the valves rather quickly one/both heads.

It is easy to check, just set the engine to TDC, pull the cam gear cover and see where the gear marks are on the backing plate.

What is the symptoms you are having? Did the engine run for awhile then let go?

axled89 · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 21, 2010, 09:44:13 AM »

well the symptoms that i have is that it sounds like it starts kinda roung, like it's out of time. and then it has a littlle miss in it at low rpms. and it smells kinda funny while running. thanks for all the help.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #8 on:** Jun 22, 2010, 12:13:35 AM »

If he problems arose immediately after the t-belt was replaced it was likely installed wrong, however if the issues began after sometime, it is likely not related to the t-belt.

Have you put a timing light on it yet to see what if the timing is correct?

Any white smoke on start-up, does the exhaust smell like gas or is it sweat smelling? Loosing any coolant? If you have the beginning of a BHG, you could have rad fluid leaking into the cyls over night this would cause it to start/idle rough until the fluid was gone.

axled89 · « **Reply #9 on:** Jun 22, 2010, 11:28:13 PM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Jun 22, 2010, 12:13:35 AM

If he problems arose immediately after the t-belt was replaced it was likely installed wrong, however if the issues began after sometime, it is likely not related to the t-belt.

Have you put a timing light on it yet to see what if the timing is correct?

Any white smoke on start-up, does the exhaust smell like gas or is it sweat smelling? Loosing any coolant? If you have the beginning of a BHG, you could have rad fluid leaking into the cyls over night this would cause it to start/idle rough until the fluid was gone.

not at all. none of those issues. i did check the timing belt, and the cydl. was up all the way.
good to go. i'm leaning towards some intake or vacuum lines maybe.

axled89 · « **Reply #10 on:** Jun 22, 2010, 11:31:39 PM »

is there different styles in the 3.0 distributer's

please help.

like the gear that's on the end of the distributer. or threw the year's of the 3.0's

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #11 on:** Jun 23, 2010, 08:30:51 PM »

there are diff ones, but not sure if the gears are diff

axled89 · « **Reply #12 on:** Jun 24, 2010, 08:56:38 AM »

what is the difference between them? would that sound like my problem? maybe i don't know what the difference is between them.

the distributer is from my 89 and the motor is unknown.

SocalWheeler71 · « **Reply #13 on:** Jun 24, 2010, 09:17:05 AM »

Sounds like it might be a burned valve to me. Blown HG is also very possible. Check compression on all cyl's, it never hurts to know.

On the vacuum leak- what does it idle at?

FYI- I have seen one of these motors run on one cam. First gen 3.0 had a bad timing belt tensioner, belt was just jumping on cam gear while the cam stayed still and the motor ran on three cyl's. I saw it do this running with the t-belt cover off. Most motors will idle and run with a cam a tooth off.

Pretty sure the 3VZE dist's are all the same.

axled89 · « **Reply #14 on:** Jun 24, 2010, 09:45:58 AM »

i have good compresion checked it yesterday and yes the cams are both turning. thanks guys.

SocalWheeler71 · « **Reply #15 on:** Jun 24, 2010, 08:31:00 PM »

I wasn't suggesting that you had a skipping belt, I was just illustrating that the motor can run with the cam a tooth off or worse. It could be that both cams are off the same amount. The compression would be even across all six cyl's. You need to pull the top cover and check the cam timing., if it's ok then:

Check your ignition components (cap,rotor,plugs, wires)

Check that all the injectors are spraying clean gasoline.

Can you isolate which cyl is missing?

How is the cat? It may be plugged.

axled89 · « **Reply #16 on:** Jun 24, 2010, 08:42:27 PM »

i no man. yea all new rotor and wires cap, and even injectors to when i put the motor in. and no i don't no which cyl. it only has a small sputter at the beginning of the rpm;s right off of idle while reving it up. i

what the hell is wrong with it. and i did take the top cover off and they both are right on there mark at 1 tdc.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #17 on:** Jun 25, 2010, 01:21:55 AM »

Have you checked for vacuum or intake leaks yet? What is the condition of the intake tube?, it will get brittle w/age and develop cracks.

If there are no intake/vacuum leaks, you might try pulling a spark plug wire to see which cyl. is causing the sputter.

axled89 · « **Reply #18 on:** Jun 25, 2010, 09:56:39 AM »

has any body bought or built a new intake tube? that doesn't cost 80.00$ from the stealership. or a junkyard one. i need some ideas on a replacement one.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #19 on:** Jun 25, 2010, 07:11:08 PM »

I have seen them made of aluminized exhaust tubing as well as aluminum and pvc. Is that the source of your problem?

I built my own hard intake pipes for my turbo Supra project, using 2.5" aluminized tubing and 3" rubber hose connecting clamps from a hardware store.
[img width= height= alt=ImageBam image upload]http://thumbnails9.imagebam.com/2321/28dd9f23207970.gif[/img]
You should be able to do something similar, using some pre-bent 45's and 90's. A barbed air line connectors welded to the tube(or threaded into the PVC if you used it) should work for the two hoses that connect to the intake tube.

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