Author Topic: My first toyota (Read 6047 times)

jimmer009 · « **on:** Jun 06, 2010, 04:56:57 PM »

Its a 92 on 35's locked and spooled. rear chevy springs

jimmer009 · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 10, 2010, 02:08:28 PM »

all cleaned up. it looks like a rc truck

Joey88RUNR · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 10, 2010, 04:04:27 PM »

Looks good, need to SAS that thing! Keep your eyes open for a front axle!

bigarms23 · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 05:45:12 PM »

good looking truck

jimmer009 · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 07, 2010, 07:12:40 PM »

Ok my brother and law has a 85 front axel for me. I have 900 bucks to spend on this swap. 200 of that is gone for the axel. So 700 bucks left. so what do I need??? front spring hanger $85. frame jigs and tubes $40. shackels $65. thats 190 shipping maybe 30 bucks. I'm not worried about shipping. I cant get around it so then were left with hi steer thats like 280. also leaf springs. probly $150???plus so I'm close to my budget. Is there anythiny else I need. I know the rotors will interchange. brake lines are probly the same(if not cheap fix) I already have rear chevy springs. So the front needs to be about a 4 inch lift. I'll do that with the springs of course. am I forgetting amything??? a couple 12 packs a couple friends and a lift is already taken care of thanks for any help.

greg_k113 · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 07, 2010, 07:30:27 PM »

Build a RUF pack for the front.Real cheap and should match you 63's as far as lift goes.

87hillbillyoter · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 07, 2010, 07:39:47 PM »

what gears you runnin in that there truck. looks like a nice truck man.

jimmer009 · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 11:33:11 AM »

thanks guys. for your help to. I did forget I need to get u bolts and spring plates. (just in case someone needs a complete list of stuff to get. The gears are 4.88's. it's an auto. It does all right down the road. a tail wind can keep you in od. Needs a cam ( I already got a header ) It really needs 5.29's but If I get a 4:1 does it lower my high range a little (I'm an old samurai guy and it does for them) also any clue if the locker out of my 92 will go into a 85 front?? that would be cool. I can wait to start the swap. gonna order everything next week. other places are little cheaper on parts but from what I hear from other yota buffs go marlin.

jimmer009 · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 11:40:49 AM »

I got thinking would I really better off starting with a stock rear spring?? I would like some ride quality I know its not gonna ride the best. right now it's bad cause with no weight in the back it hops over every little and big bump. what do you think??? also I'm going with high steer and they say I need some lift to clear the oil pan??? I got a week so any info would be great. I'll get to reading old posts

yotatough · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 02:54:27 PM »

I would keep the chevys in the rear, maybe take out the overload to soften it up, and run the ruf pack and it should clear the oil pan with high steer

jimmer009 · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 04:17:02 PM »

the overload is out. It flexs grerat and am very happy with them. the reason it rides like crap is there is just no wait at all in the rearend. two tuff guys can lift the rear up. anyway the ruf. whats a good year pack to start with I've done a lot reseach and 2wd drive is better for flex??? does it really matter much?? and how does it work?? the second longest spring in the pack is that more load carring or flex?? how about if I got a late 80's spring pack used the longest springs then maybe find two thirds and cut one down to look nice?? I hate there are so many varibles in stuff like this. will it really matter a lot??

fade · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 05:54:31 PM »

So from what I read though. Your wondering if your ifs gears and locker will work. Sorry no they will not. But you can sell them pretty easy. My ruf is 87 4x4 stock springs. I'm on the overloads right now but I don't drive my truck all much and it gave me about 3" or so. If you get a s-10 pack and build with that also with the 2nd gen rears it will work out good. 3rd gen rears are way to long people have done it but it just doesnt work out all to great.

Nice truck by the way.

Nimyad · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 07:47:58 PM »

for my ruf i ran the factory 81 rear pack for a while, gave me about 3 in fo lift but i kept hitting my bump stops so i took out on of the shorty springs and put in 2 cherokee 6 in lift springs, gave me another 3 in or so of lift, still flexes great and rides better then the factory rear pack.

yotatough · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 08, 2010, 08:34:46 PM »

on all the ruf packs I've done, they've been 2 full sets of 48" rears, mixed together, and on my brothers truck they sit almost perfect with the rear 63's.

CSR73 · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 11:00:18 AM »

I didn't see it answered already, sorry if it was, but 'No' to the IFS locker working in the '85 front axle. IFS uses a smaller 7.5" ring gear. The '85 front axle is a 8", same as your rear axle.

jimmer009 · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 01:01:15 PM »

thanks for the info. Of course the locker wont fit, that would be cool though. at least I can sell it and get money towards a new one. So i've decided to build a pair of springs. So off to the junk yard I go. what should I start with?? s-10?? earily gen yota?? does anyone know off the top off there head how wide they are?? or what the stock lenth should be?? I know when I drill the frame Ill mesure what ever I end up with. I'd just like have a template of what to look for.

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 03:54:24 PM »

84-88 rear springs are best from what Ive seen,

dont forget things like shock hoops, a guy on here named sparkplug can tell you about ford shock hoops,
you can use your CALIPERS, but your rotors are actually a smaller diameter, you need fj60 rotors, marlin sells them or autozone has them pretty cheap, you can use your IFS but your pad will actually sit off the rotor partially (sounds really ghetto and scary, but if you needed to get it rolling i guess)
Otherwise for brakes, Ive been looking into the tacoma brake kit from front range off road.
pretty cool cuz you can swap out a birf without touching wheel bearings or knuckle bearings. and if you want to change a third, to re-gear or change lockers or something you only have to pull the caliper and the spindle bolts.

dont forget a front driveshaft either, your IFS one is not long enough as well as the CV joint on it was not designed for a live axle, you can grind the IFS CV, but you still need a longer front shaft

Im trying to get my turtle points up, if this info has help, please bump my turtle points

jimmer009 · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 05:58:20 PM »

yea no problem on the points. So thats why kits are so much. the rotors will have to go for now thats somthing I'll do the payday after get it done. I've seen f-350 shock towers and put them in samurais. I will probly make my own. unless the ford guy tell me there only like 20 bucks. I was hoping my drive shaft would work. I don't know why I thought it would. Only because It's lifted. I will have to figer something out. I am gonna save a lot money doing my springs so maybe buy one. certenly gonna go threw the scap yards around here. we got 2 good ones. thanks for all the help. I might try to do build thread on the springs, anything else I should worry about???

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 06:59:40 PM »

nope, but if you talk to sparkplug I think they got there shock hoops for like 16 a peice?
yeah just dont ruin your pads running your IFS rotors?
You may be able to get away with a SFA driveshaft, but you have to consider that your RUF pack will move your axle forward (if you re-drill your perches and u-bolt plates you can move it back to factory) But you also have to consider that the IFS diff is longer then a stock 8" diff... dont ask my why?

yotatough · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 08:15:12 PM »

If its a budget build, then make a square shaft for the front, there loud but very strong, and cheap to make. and then you can use the front cardon on the rear and point your dif up when you go duals.

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 09, 2010, 11:32:10 PM »

If you go square, I just made a post in the AG SPLINE I think it was started by jrock but if you go to my profile and click recent posts, you should find a post where I desribed how to make a less sloppy square driveshaft

jimmer009 · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 10, 2010, 08:18:47 AM »

uummm I think I like the front axle getting forward an inch or two. I guess I'll have to price drive shafts. Some places you just shouldn't cut corners. granted I'm cheap. I have a but have to see what a buddy of mine thinks. I've tried to stretch a drive shaft before for a sammi. It didn't work to well. I should of done more research. what year fj60 rotors should I look for??? thanks for all the help

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 10, 2010, 08:35:55 AM »

1982 should work?

you could get a SFA driveshaft then some spacers from 4crawler.com. I dont like spacers, BUT if you ever messed up your driveshaft... its just as simple as finding another SFA drivesaft and puttting it in?

jimmer009 · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 10, 2010, 11:58:20 AM »

yea drive shaft spacers are not to good in my eyes. If I got to I will. I seen them break drive shafts on a samurai, and once out it didn't break u joints anymore. that person sold them to a buddy and it was just the opposite effect. maybe more right foot than anything. I'm really glad I got all this info before I started. boy I would of been in for a big surprise. I'll get pics of it. If your ever in NY and want to wheel let me know

jimmer009 · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 05, 2010, 06:36:23 PM »

all I got to left is figer out why the bakrw is sticking. but heres what I did this weekend. thanks for all your help guys. more pics to come

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #25 on:** Dec 05, 2010, 08:05:54 PM »

why WHAT is sticking???

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 05, 2010, 08:11:21 PM »

Quote from: BoG-ToY on Dec 05, 2010, 08:05:54 PM

why WHAT is sticking???

Back rear wheel? Possibly?

Dang, that was a quick build. Looks good!

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 05, 2010, 09:03:59 PM »

bakrw = brake.... front brakes or rear?

jimmer009 · « **Reply #28 on:** Dec 06, 2010, 04:24:06 PM »

well the problem was the rim was hitting caliper. I grinded on that a bit. then I put a washer on the lug studs. I really don't like wheel spacers but I'm gonna have to get the thinest ones I can. The swap didn't take long cause of some good friends and a heated garage with a lift and lots of beer. the 4 inch lift springs have the front higher 4 inches. Ill have to adress that. and rebuild the axel, I need 4.88 gears I'm thinking e locker but Im sort of cheap and have great luck with lock rite's. but the pion seal is leaking the knuckels need rebuilding. not done yet but ever gonna be done

and a square driveshaft

bleakhorizon · « **Reply #29 on:** Dec 06, 2010, 08:52:34 PM »

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-7107/?rtype=10

i run these in the front.... never had a problem and more than enough thread left

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