Author Topic: how do you determine if your rear axle is 2.5" or 3.75" ???  (Read 3200 times)

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PastorKerry

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I am looking at adding a block kit to the rear end just to level my 1986 4runner that is bone stock.

how do I determine if the rear axle is 2.5" or 3.75"

Appears that most kits are for either a 2.5" or 3.75" rear axle... that is on the Tuff Country website.

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<MIKE>

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tape measure
1987 4runner
Dual cases, 2.28-4.7
Dana 60 Rear; Danna 44 front; 5.89’s
249:1

Rocksurfer

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I don't like block lifts, it creates spring wrap that will just cause increased stress on the springs, ujoints, etc., etc. If you do go with one make sure you get a steel set, the aluminum blocks will wear from the torque and loosen in short order. A shackle lift which is easier and just as cheap would be your best option until you can get a better set of springs. It is fairly common for 4Runners to sag due to the extra pounds they carry with the top. Now I have had a truck with blocks before but I bought it that way and I did feel the difference over a rig without. I think they are refering to the block thickness as to the 2.5 or 3.5. You can pick those up at any 4x4 shop, 4 Wheel Parts is in Compton not to far from you on the 91 and Wilmington.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2010, 02:30:37 AM by Rocksurfer »
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Lift blocks are designed for lifting a vehicle, not resolving sagging springs, same for extended shackles.  The best thing to do will be to rebuild them, and you will get a much better ride by adding another main leaf than going w/blocks or a shackle.
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Kerry, its very easy to add a leaf to your spring packs.  do you have basic hand tools??  4 inch grinder??  if so you can easily install a long leaf to your packs,  you can easily get some from ruff country and many other vendors but make sure they are LONG leaves,  personally i much prefer getting some springs from the junk yard.  either some toyota springs or 2wd chevy S10 springs or 2wd F150 springs basically any leaf spring set thats 2 1/2 inches wide and has good arch to them,  many "add a leaf" kits are short very thick leaves that end up bending the original springs,  using the longest leaf you can find will offer a better ride and more lift.   
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PastorKerry [OP]

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Thanks for the tip.  I'll look into the cost of rebuilding a set of springs as well as adding a leaf.

Thanks!

Lift blocks are designed for lifting a vehicle, not resolving sagging springs, same for extended shackles.  The best thing to do will be to rebuild them, and you will get a much better ride by adding another main leaf than going w/blocks or a shackle.
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PastorKerry [OP]

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Really good insight.  Yes, I have basic hand tools, grinder, compressor, impact wrenches, etc...  Just don't have a welder or cutting torch.... YET... Looking for a good mig welder and torch.

I'll find a local junk yard and look for "yota springs or 2wd chevy S10 springs or 2wd F150"

How long of a leaf am I looking for?
And where in the pack does it go? top, middle, lower???

Several others had mentioned fabbing up a couple of shackles 9" long with holes 7" between bolts.  So I fabbed those up today... Now I am thinking I might not put them on after reading a few of the newer posts.

The shackles that are on there are not the originals.  They are 4" between bolts, but it looks like they were made from a cut of old spring.  1/4" x 2 1/2" x 6"  They are 2 pieces and are not welded together.  The bolt pattern looks to be stock distance between bolts at 4"...  and the bolts look to be 1/2" threaded bolts.
 
Kerry, its very easy to add a leaf to your spring packs.  do you have basic hand tools??  4 inch grinder??  if so you can easily install a long leaf to your packs,  you can easily get some from ruff country and many other vendors but make sure they are LONG leaves,  personally i much prefer getting some springs from the junk yard.  either some toyota springs or 2wd chevy S10 springs or 2wd F150 springs basically any leaf spring set thats 2 1/2 inches wide and has good arch to them,  many "add a leaf" kits are short very thick leaves that end up bending the original springs,  using the longest leaf you can find will offer a better ride and more lift.   
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Rocksurfer

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Sure you could add another leaf to the pack, which is basically doing the same as any stop-gap measure, in the end the only real cure would be to replace the fatigued springs with a new set. Even having springs re-ached will weaken them causing failure in the future. If they were not old and fatigued I would suggest adding leafs but a fatigued set will only fail in the future. It's a crap-shoot with any of the fixes on fatigued springs but the easiest, least expensive, least work, and quickest is a shackle lift. Now if he decides to go that route and add a leaf he needs to remove the flat load leaf and replace it with a long load leaf this will help to avoid a harsh ride.
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PastorKerry [OP]

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Ok... thanks... Well I think I'll try inserting these shackles I fabbed up today and see what it looks like.

Really wanting to save as much as I can for a SAS and all the trimmings later this year.

Sure you could add another leaf to the pack, which is basically doing the same as any stop-gap measure, in the end the only real cure would be to replace the fatigued springs with a new set. Even having springs re-ached will weaken them causing failure in the future. If they were not old and fatigued I would suggest adding leafs but a fatigued set will only fail in the future. It's a crap-shoot with any of the fixes on fatigued springs but the easiest, least expensive, least work, and quickest is a shackle lift. Now if he decides to go that route and add a leaf he needs to remove the flat load leaf and replace it with a long load leaf this will help to avoid a harsh ride.
Pastor Kerry

http://www.visionxstore.com/ (use "kmack5" for your 5% discount at checkout)

Rocksurfer

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I got the feeling it was just a temporary fix for later and bigger mods, all the more reason to slap on some shackles and move on.
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