Topic: Flat towing options?

[edeslaur]

First time poster, long time 4x4er. Just new to Toys.

Other than FROR's rear full-float kit, what are the other options to flat tow an '87 4Runner? With an AT (no N in the tcase).

I have a 20' enclosed trailer already and this won't fit and I don't need yet another trailer aggravating the HOA dudes. 

Converting to a 5 speed is absolutely on the to-do list, as is dual tcases, so those are options I would consider. But I've read more than a few cases where the Toy tcases like to pop into gear when being towed and frag their engines. Plus no one recommends it with a stock tcase, so that's a non-starter. Any reason a dual tcase would make that 100% safe (I just dropped a boatload of $$ in my motor)?

Thanks!

[Rocksurfer]

Take the driveshaft out when towing is the only other option.

[edeslaur [OP]]

Yeah, SWMBO will not be going there. 

Rear hubs are looking more and more like the way to go. Darn spendy is all...

[Rocksurfer]

I've flat-towed several of my rigs, always saved my $ for other needed parts and took the ds out to tow.

[edeslaur [OP]]

Jeeps (and fullsize Chevy's) win this round, Toyota. 

Wife's going to Houston later this year, and the Toy also plays the role of the toad. She doesn't do driveshafts.

I could just pull out the rear driveshaft and have her drive around in FWD, but that's not really the right way to skin this cat. 

That's a bummer for the wallet, the FROR kit ain't cheap. But it's awesome to even have that option.

[Rocksurfer]

Not really, I have towed my 80 over 500 miles with both ds in. It is not recomended and may damage the tcase is the main reason to remove it. It can be done but at some risk. I don't suggest it but it was pouring rain that day and I didn't want to get soaked so I didn't remove it. even with a chevy or jeep it is not recomended to tow it wheels down, but it still can be done. Early Jeeps were especially bad to tow. The main thing that happens is it burns bearings and seals since they are not spinning the gears inside which is the main way the gear oil is sloshed around. The main drawback to towing with a Toyota is that neutral is between 4 lo and 4 hi which isn't the best set up.

[OOPS]

Pull your rear D-shaft if you tow. Here is why;

Coming back from a week on the Dusy a friend of mine was dolly towing his 83 with the rear wheels on the ground. Both the T-case and the tranny were in neutral. He only had a 4:70 single T-case so the front d-shaft was at a good angle. He had made the DE-shaft so it was not balanced and not straight.

We were driving up I-5 at 65 MPH and all of a sudden, the rear wheels locked up causing him to almost get in a wreck. We put his rig on his Dad’s trailer and dolly towed his Dad’s Jeep.

When he got home and tore it down this is what he found. Blown rear R & P, Detroit locker messed up, blown tranny, and the front D-shaft was messed up.

What happened is the front D-shaft not being balanced or straight locked up at the CV, which caused the rest of the damage.

Ten minutes worth of work would have saved him a boatload of money.

All you have to do is take four bolts out at the diff and hang the D-shaft under the rig.

[edeslaur [OP]]

Or install a full-floating rear axle kit from FROR and make sure all 4 hubs are unlocked. Then all that's spinning are the wheels and rotors.

Keep in mind, SWMBO does not do drive-shafts.  8)

[jackson58]

Get FROR driveline disconnect, a lot cheaper than the full float kit.

[edeslaur [OP]]

Yeah, Brian didn't think it was set up for lots of flat towing. Plus there were questions of it surviving behind a dual tcase. But it is definitely cheaper.

I've sourced most of the parts, think I can get away with a FF for under $1000, now am trying to beat that $$.

[emsvitil]

If the rear case is set up for twin-sticks (or a triple-shift setup) you don't have the F/R driveshafts hooked together in N....

That would help a bit over the stock setup.

There's also the rear-driveshaft disconnect setup............

[Mario]

I have flat towed my 84 4x4 pickup for about 3 years. I have lockers front and rear, twin cases and I just put it in 2wd, and the 5 speed in Neutral. I did for last years tinbender's jambo and have never had a problem. The rear locker spins the drive shaft but I am only going 55 mph, no lock up and no adverse transmission problems. 8) 8)

[Rocksurfer]

Yes you can do it but it wears on the bearings and seals since they will not be lubricated.

[OOPS]

You guys do what you want to do. After seeing what happen to my friends rig, I will pull the D-shaft if I ever flat tow.

[Rocksurfer]

Not that I disagree with you I always except for that one time pull my rear ds, still it can be done with it in. Normally I pull the rear bolts and just slide it off the slip yoke leave the front section in. If you do it that way make sure to mark them so that you keep the ds in balance when putting it back together. Oh and you can't do a fwd with the front section in, makes a bunch of noise.

[edeslaur [OP]]

Sitting near Houston (from San Diego). Here's what I've learned so far

pulling the rear ds was the option I used, didn't have time to get and install the FROR kit. Went with the family. I brought the rear ds in case I needed it.

Have about 300-400 miles on my AT 4runner in FWD. surprisingly little torque steer. With the AT, putting it in Park and turning the engine off has the truck rolling down hills. Learned this painlessly, but interestingly it is intermittent, but frequent.  Ebrake now used frequently. LOL

I'm towing with the truck in 4h and trans in Park. With the no-park thing, I'm being extra careful to doublecheck that the hubs are unlocked before starting to tow. Had relied on hem blocking and it being dragged wih my last truck. I can't rely on that as an indicator since Park doesn't.

in deep sand, FWD is better than RWD. Heh.

Truck will do 80 with no vibes in FWD. 

[bleakhorizon]

Sitting near Houston (from San Diego). Here's what I've learned so far

pulling the rear ds was the option I used, didn't have time to get and install the FROR kit. Went with the family. I brought the rear ds in case I needed it.

Have about 300-400 miles on my AT 4runner in FWD. surprisingly little torque steer. With the AT, putting it in Park and turning the engine off has the truck rolling down hills. Learned this painlessly, but interestingly it is intermittent, but frequent.  Ebrake now used frequently. LOL

I'm towing with the truck in 4h and trans in Park. With the no-park thing, I'm being extra careful to doublecheck that the hubs are unlocked before starting to tow. Had relied on hem blocking and it being dragged wih my last truck. I can't rely on that as an indicator since Park doesn't.

in deep sand, FWD is better than RWD. Heh.

Truck will do 80 with no vibes in FWD. 

dude... what... all you need to do is take the 4 rear bolts off the rear shaft and hang it up under the truck... shouldnt need to totally take it off

[edeslaur [OP]]

This way I just lock the hubs, unhook it, and drive away. Which I'm doing just about every day of this three week trip.

No wheeling, just pavement work. :-)

[Ghettofab88]

I have to aggree, the full float kit is the only way to go for flat towing.  Not that pulling the d-shaft doesn't work also, its just way easier with the FF kit.

I used to flat tow a jeep(yes, I know) with a full float rearend and it was reassuring crusin on the hiway knowing that nothing in the driveline was spinning.

Kevo