Just getting started on this. I'm stoked too have figured out my brake problem, now it's time to get started on moving forward with the build.

here are some pics of what I'm starting with



I thought it was a brake booster problem that was causing my brakes to grab and lock up front, turns out when I took the master cylinder off the booster it looked like the pin was way to long, I adjusted it back about 1/8th inch and put everything back together. It has worked like a charm. the pin being to long was not allowing the master cylinder to fully rest making the brakes grab/heat up/lock up.

Next up on the list is to take out the front axle and rebuild it

Any suggestions which direction I should go first, after the axle is done?

thanks man. both front fenders are a little ate up but nothing too bad. I have so many plans I dont know where to start. 

Here is a short list of what I think are most important in order of how I would like the build to go:

1. rebuild front axle
2. crawler box or *4.70 gear set, probably the gear set.
3. Eaton Elocker F/R
4. 5" trail-flex lift kit
5. 35" tires with black crawler wheels
6. rebuild engine (only has 132,000 on the clock right now)
7. front/rear custom bumpers w/ front winch and sliders
8. custom tube bed


and so on....... The list above should take somewhere in the neighborhood of 3 years to get the money and time to build for all that stuff


Edit:*

Rock the I.F.S that what all the real men are doin on the trails these days!!!!

haha i feel ya, sounds nice...at least ur starting with a SFA....i gotta convert which is a good chunk of change. any gear reduction in your diffs? u gunna run stock gearing or no?

yes a re-gear is planed, maybe 4.88 or 5.29's but I have not done enough research on that to make a decision yet. I'll probably do the re-gear at the same time as the Elockers.

I'm thinking through how I want to do my lift. here is what I'm thinking.

For the rear I am going to do chevy 63" with double shackles in back.

My thoughts on the front was this: I have easy access to 3" Skyjacker springs. these springs are made to be a direct replacement lift spring for a stock SFA pickup. If I use these Skyjacker 3" springs and weld in the Marlin front spring hanger kit, I will get right at 4" of front lift. Is this sound reasoning? will this setup fit 35" tires?

Or I can get the Skyjacker 5" front springs and not do the front spring hanger kit, but probably still replace the factory shackles. I'm fairly certain this way would fit 35" tires. Also going with the 5" springs I would use an AAL in the 63" chevys to make everything sit nice and level.

Thoughts on this??......
 

I have seen some "L" shaped shackles that may fix that problem. Where can I find those?

also with the rubbing, wheel backspacing/offset has a ton to do with that. what backspacing are your wheels freak?

I would use your main leaves from the rear springs up front with that hangar - then build a leaf pack with the skyjakers to get the lift you want.  This will move the center pin of your axle 1" forward and another  1.5inches forward with marlin's spring hangar.  This should help with firewall clearance for 35" tires.

I was going to ask what type of front drive shaft mods would be needed but that all depends on whether I just go with the 4.70's in the stock transfer case or go for a dual case set up..... 

if you went 4.7s with a stock case you wont need anything. maybe just upgrade it with a stronger/more spline driveline. i know trail gear makes one with long travle splines....

with duals you will have to shorten yours. when i did my duals i took my driveline to DriveLine Tech. The guy owns the shop all by himself and does amazing work. he made my driveline out of .250 DOM. strong as you will ever need i payed 200 bucks i think and i gave him my front driveline i had from my IFS cause it had a CV and he put the CV in the rear cause its a Short Steep angle.

Does anyone make a front spring hanger that does not move the springs any further forward? I know I could fab one myself but i dont have the equipment. Or is it just a matter of where you place the hanger when welding? With the RUF I'll be going far enough to fit 35's. my goal here with the final product is to be on 35's and be as low as possible with the lift.....

You want to move the springs forward if you are trying to fit 35's with minimal lift.  It will help keep the tires from rubbing the firewall.  Trust me, I tried driving on my 35's with stock springs, fiberglass fenders and a small shackle lift in the front and the rubbing was out of control.  So I hamered down the pinch weld and it still rubbed.  You could always have Alcan custom build you some to your specs....

the rears up front will move the axle forward right? the reason I was curious about the hanger is to have better pinion angle.

yes they will a little bit. thats what i have in my truck. if you wanna see how much forward check out my build up.

Check out this off of Marlin's trans page http://marlincrawler.com/transmission/rebuilt-complete

Just look at your trans and match it up to one in the picture.

cant seem to get the hub back on the passenger side.... why does it seem like the inner bearing will not go all the way up on the spindle.... Ideas?

What numbers in the vin will tell you which transmission is in the truck? or what is the easiest way to figure this out?

This will help identify your transmission. just pop the hood and look.

holy crap thats awesome crazyYota thanks for that!

that should get you rollin