Author Topic: Engine Re-build Kit!!!! (Read 6968 times)

SWAMPER · « **on:** Oct 18, 2004, 08:26:28 PM »

Ok guys here goes the bad news...cyl #4 on my truck is dead

...so I am now looking for a rebuild kit and what not...I will look for a doner engine but I also need to gather some info on an engine rebuild kit need to see whats cheaper cause im poor $I\'m Down$ ....please put your info and input on this thread...as it will be greatly appriciate it $Beer Chug\'n$ P.S it has 125,000 miles on it...bearly broken in

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #1 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 08:32:31 PM »

to bad u dont have money. the 3.4 swap would be great

Mike D · « **Reply #2 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 08:44:44 PM »

125,000 miles thats it

man that sucks, No that really sucks a lot, it HUGELY SUCKS $I\'m Down$

350's aren't very expensive

SWAMPER · « **Reply #3 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 08:46:44 PM »

I dont have money for a SAS or a new rear end...dont want to snap my axles you know

I know tomorrow Im going to call Toyota to see if theres a re-call on my engine because Ive heard of recals just dont remember for what engines and what year

Mike D · « **Reply #4 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:05:03 PM »

If i rember corectly there was a recall around 92-95 on the 3.0L v6 but i may be wrong

SWAMPER · « **Reply #5 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:07:33 PM »

Hopefully its on mine

Skinny_Pedal · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:18:04 PM »

i thought the headgasket was the only recall in those motors

Mike D · « **Reply #7 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:23:21 PM »

thats what i was thnking of

Mike D · « **Reply #8 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:24:00 PM »

by the way swamp what happened did it go boom or what

SWAMPER · « **Reply #9 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:27:50 PM »

hum...what can i do for the headgasket to let go

No it just all of a sudden quit working...I thought it was a dead cyl but wasent sure so I took it in to a shop and they confirmed it

Mike D · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:34:40 PM »

heres a new V6
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7927375537&category=46098
heres a rebuilt V6
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7927790424&category=33615

SWAMPER · « **Reply #11 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:43:27 PM »

dude their both re-built....thanks for the post though...now if only someone would look in ebay for a rebuild kit

Mike D · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 09:57:47 PM »

there wern't any V6's a lot of 22re's though

SWAMPER · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 10:00:15 PM »

Darn....Well thanks a bunch Mike.... $Beer Chug\'n$ hope I find something soon...or atlease b4 she blows lol

kyle_22r · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 10:01:38 PM »

look on engnbldr.com...he sells the cheapest 22R kits i've seen, and also offers 3vze kits. his reputation is pretty good among most people too

BigMike · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 18, 2004, 10:21:15 PM »

Quote from: LILSWAMPER on Oct 18, 2004, 09:27:50 PM

hum...what can i do for the headgasket to let go

Man that is the best thing for you. If you didnt cook the engine, then you can just buy a new headgasket for less than $50 and then replace it. It's only one side of the engine bank you know. Just make sure that you don't place the gasket upside down, I hear this is a notorious problem and the water line is blocked and it will over heat on the first start up.. So becareful when replacing the head gasket there....

If you did cook your engine, then try to borrow a straight bar from a friendly shop in your area and check for warpage of the cylinder head. If its not warped then your set. The block usually never ever warps so your dont need to worry about that.

With headgaskets on my MR2, I've been using copper coat on them, light coats on both sides, but I've been having head gasket problems so I think next time I do a head gasket job I will just put it on dry.

If you have access to some compressed air, please do this while your head is off: Flip it up side down so that the valves are facing up. Then take some water and fill up each of the cylinder domes so that the faces of all three valves are submerged. Then take an air nosel and blow directly into both the intake route and the exhaust route blasting air directly at the seat of each valve. What you are doing is looking for bubbles which means you need a valve job. Very minor bubbling is OK, but check the exhaust valves, they will go bad before the intakes, especially if the valves were adjusted too tight. Also, make sure that you get the nosel of the air tool directly up in the runners and directly at the seat of each seated valve. You really need to blow air in as many directions and angles as possible. If you had a perfect valve job, then the pressure of the compressed shop air will never be enough to cause bubbles to form. So try as hard as possible to get bubbles to come out. If nothing or only a small amount is there, then call it good and check the rest. Really bad seats will have very large and obvious bubbles from the air, and you will see it even before the air nosel is close to the seat. Then you definitely should consider a valve job, I know it will cost you some $dough$, but it will save you on gas mileage in the future so it will pay for itself in a while...

Quote

No it just all of a sudden quit working...

No what the hell does that mean? Did you run a compression test? Can you crank it over? Does it try to start? Does it shake really bad if it starts? Is if frozen? Answer me!!

Quote

I thought it was a dead cyl but wasent sure so I took it in to a shop and they confirmed it

Ah got it

So did they give you a report of each cylinder's compression? So you can still drive it, right?

If it's a blown head gasket, start checking for oil in your coolant and moisture in your crank case. The moisture in the crank case will show up on the underside of your oil fill cap. Your engine will appear to have mayonnaise under the oil fill cap. If so, then water is getting pumped into your oil lines that pass through the head gasket. BUT, sometimes you can have a blown head gasket, and apart from your engine's water "magically disappearing", it may show no symptoms at all. This is the case with my MR2 right now. I blew a HKS 0.7mm metal head gasket on my quad-throttle 10.5:1 JDM engine that's sitting outside my room right now. That's why it's so nice to have a Truck right now

My MR2 drinks water from my cooling system in about 45 mins of driving, and it over heats daily. I have to carry a 2-litre bottle of water with me for my trip back home from school. There is no water in my oil and no oil in my water, so its blown between cylinders and the water is getting blasted through the engine and out the exhaust. It still runs strong and is still making really good gas mileage, but its over heating..

Quote from: LILSWAMPER on Oct 18, 2004, 09:43:27 PM

now if only someone would look in ebay for a rebuild kit

now if only LILSWAMPY would look in ebay for a rebuild kit

Good luck dude! $Beer Chug\'n$

SWAMPER · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 19, 2004, 05:51:43 AM »

Mike My head gasket is find the only thing wrong with my engine is cyl #4 I. My truck turns on and everything Ive been driving it like that for around a month but just yesterday was confirmed that one of my cyl's is dead. It dosent leak or anything so I know my gasket is fine...Ive been looking at re-building kits from www.toyotaperformance.com www.lcengineering.com and AoR or something like that...but they were are sooooo expensive so Im still looking...while Im at rebuilding the engine Im thinking of might as well add some performance parts to squeze some juice out of my little 3.0....what parts could I replace and whos parts would I use?

SWAMPER · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 19, 2004, 08:17:10 AM »

I went to www.engnbldr.com man those prices are cheap now it dosent look so bad...I emailed them with questions and they answered me in like an hour....they also told me that they carry oversized valves and that should help me out with my power output...I wrote them onother e-mail and Im just waiting now for the answer

88runner · « **Reply #18 on:** Oct 19, 2004, 09:10:09 AM »

here is the list of recall for your runner http://www.alldata.com/TSB/60/94600850.html

I think that www.enginbldr.com should be the less expensive

Good luck

BigMike · « **Reply #19 on:** Oct 19, 2004, 09:20:41 AM »

Quote from: LILSWAMPER on Oct 19, 2004, 05:51:43 AM

It dosent leak or anything so I know my gasket is fine...

So is it kicking out blue smoke? Dude, I know you probabely want to just rebuild it all, but if you are so concerned about money, you may only need a simple valve job or something. If it's not smoking blue, then your not burning oil which means your piston rings are fine and so is your piston, and unless you just have a broken spark plug, then you probably burned an exhaust valve. I mean if your engine was running fine enough, like you said it's only broken in at 125k then you could just do a simple valve job on just that one head, replace the head gasket (you have to replace it when ever you take the head off), and then put it all back together.
Heck, you could tell the mechanic to ONLY do a valve job on cylinder #4 if you try the water trick I talked about in my previous post. Then he might only charge you like $50 bucks or so for his labor..

It just doesnt seem to me that you've gotta do a complete rebuild, and if you have plans on SAS or a new rear axle, some springs, heck even a Crawler, then just worry about the engine later, like after 300k miles. Maybe then you will have enough dough to change to a 3.4 or something......... only time knows!

BigMike

BigMike · « **Reply #20 on:** Oct 19, 2004, 12:08:47 PM »

Hey Swamp, This might be a bit expensive, but I really like this Tim at D.O.A. engines and he does some really great work.

Check it out http://doaracingengines.com/v6.html

SWAMPER · « **Reply #21 on:** Oct 19, 2004, 12:51:45 PM »

My truck does not smoke at all...I think that a valve job on #4 would do the trick....I will check the pricing for this whenever I talk to the mech...and if its not a big diff to rebuilt the whole thing I might just have it rebuilt anyways Ill keep you guys updated

Mike thanks for all your info $Beer Chug\'n$

BigMike · « **Reply #22 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 12:27:20 AM »

No prob dude, good luck and if you can add some info to the tech guides about your experience that would rock!

later

SWAMPER · « **Reply #23 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 07:07:14 AM »

Ill take pics and all during the process...(if I remember

) But just incase I still decide to rebuild the motor is there anything I can add for more power I know engbldr.com sells oversized valves set of 8 for like 80 bucks but that should only add me like 5-7 ponies...so I was just wondering if you guys new anything from anyone that I could add to gain power....thanks in advance $Beer Chug\'n$

BigMike · « **Reply #24 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 10:09:37 AM »

Just go with a mild cam and you should be happy. Im sure there are headers available for the 3VZ and you could also get your throttle body bored out. Also might want to try some Nology Hotwires if you want an upgraded ignition system. Whatever you do its gonna cost some a pretty penny

SWAMPER · « **Reply #25 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 12:17:21 PM »

Yeah I know its like 120 bucks for the Nology wires

Where could I get a mild cam from?

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #26 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 12:21:16 PM »

Do a search on 4x4wire. Nunsa just rebuilt his 3.0 and seems to be happy with it.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #27 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 01:30:55 PM »

That sounds good I coulnt find it though

if you could post up a link I would realy apreciate that $Beer Chug\'n$

robinhood4x4 · « **Reply #28 on:** Oct 20, 2004, 03:06:46 PM »

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=570354&Forum=f11&Words=power&Searchpage=0&Limit=50&Main=569888&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=15170&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post570354

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=545163&Forum=f11&Words=power&Searchpage=0&Limit=50&Main=545163&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=15170&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post545163

I think these are them, I just skimmed them cause I'm at work.

SWAMPER · « **Reply #29 on:** Oct 21, 2004, 08:35:40 AM »

Ahhhh! Those guys bashing on poor ol Nunsa

O well I hope this doesent happen when I rebuild mine

Ill try and dyno it once thats all done and over with ok!

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

SWAMPER [OP]

Related Topics