Valve Adjustment

Started by blyota91, October 04, 2004, 04:20:43 AM

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

blyota91

I need to stop being lazy and adjust my valves.  I have a haynes manual and it tells a procedure, but since I installed a cam in my truck, they lash spec is supposed to be .010 intake and exhuast, hot.  I was wondering if there is any rough spec I should be following that would allow me to do this cold.  I have stumbled across it somewhere on here, but I can't find it again.  And also, is the procedure in the haynes manual worth following, or is there a better procedure I just don't know about.  :help:

Andrew
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94

BLUCRUZ

What engine? What cam?
According to 85 FSM, 22r/e is .008 on intake & .012 on exhaust.
I personally run my intake at .007 & exhaust at .010
If a 22r/e then .010 is going to be real noisy on the intake side-will sound like a diesel
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

BigMike

I've heard that some cam manufactures call for .010 for both intake and exhaust, but this is really silly. Run what the factory manual calls for, and that's .008 intake and .01 exhaust. .007 like what Blucruz said sounds like a good idea too!
Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Instagram: @SlowestTacoma
Things are only impossible until they are not.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
"An informed question. But difficult to answer. I am what you see." -Nanaki

blyota91

It is a 22re with a Comp Cam in it, specs are in the link on my signature.  I've set them both to .010 before and it just plain sucks.  Like Mike says, sounds like a diesel.  I have the specs of .008, and .012, are these specs hot or cold?  Is there any cold specs or should I just do it hot?
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94

BLUCRUZ

72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

blyota91

well I'll have to try that and see what I get.  I need to put in a new valve cover gasket anyway, good excuse to do it.
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94

BigMike

Quote from: Blucruz on October 04, 2004, 04:55:37 PM
I do it cold :gap:

Hey Blu, you do your intakes @ 0.007 when they are cold :ack: That's like a 0.006 or 0.005 when hot you know........? But it works great for you and that's pretty cool. Have you ever checked for heat indications on your exhaust valves during a rebuild?

Quote from: blyota91 on October 04, 2004, 01:58:24 PM
I have the specs of .008, and .012, are these specs hot or cold? Is there any cold specs or should I just do it hot?

I dont know how much the heat expansion amounts for in terms of thousandths of an inch at the top of the valve :confused: so I would say to follow what Toyota says and set them at 8 intake and 10 exhaust, and these are the settings for HOT.

If you ever get some time, maybe this is a waste of time :yupyup: but you should check both your intakes and exhausts when the motor is cold and then again 5 mins later while the motor is warmed up, then we could tell what the difference is between hot and cold.
Im sure the .002" accounts for the hotter exhaust valves to expand and making them just as tight as the intakes, but this would only be while driving under a good load and really working the thermostat, so we would never really know what thats like since once you shut it down and pull the cover, they are already cooling and contracting. And a couple thousandths will change real quick-
Check out our new Rock Crawling Videos!
2016 56-speed 580:1 Tacoma Rock Crawler   
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Instagram: @SlowestTacoma
Things are only impossible until they are not.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
"An informed question. But difficult to answer. I am what you see." -Nanaki

trevinotrek

Ijust did my 22re to factoryspecs and still sounds like a deisal now i'm gonna try .07 and .10
:twocents: :shake_head: :shake_head:

nick
aint skeerd " watch this" ok so maby it was a littlte to bigto get over .Stop laughing and turn me over

trevinotrek

 :smack: :smack: :smack: :smack:
oops .007            :smack:.010 :smack:
aint skeerd " watch this" ok so maby it was a littlte to bigto get over .Stop laughing and turn me over

MidgetMike

How's it goin? I just adjusted my valves last week and torqued my head, and my motor got louder, (22r .08/.12) turns out my chain tensioner is broken and making all the niose like chattery valves only 40,000 miles on motor lucky me :smack:
Sounds like more tree huggin hippie bull :pokinit:

Marlin

.008 intake and .012 exhaust hot
.006          and .010             cold

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

BLUCRUZ

Thanks Marlin, I was just getting ready to reply back to mike about the hot & cold :beer:
72 FJ40. 350 Multiport EFI, turbo 400, ORION T-case, 35 Procomp's  disk brakes front & rear, ARB's F&R and an onboard shower for the ladies!
86 sr-5 4runner SAS conversion. E-lockers F&R, 5.29's 4.7 Marlin case.

John Doe

#12
Bumping an old thread.....

I went to adjust my valves today, set them cold at .25mm for intake and .27mm for the exhaust. My chilton manual called for 0.25mm-0.35mm (0.010-0.014in) and 0.27mm-0.37mm (0.011 - 0.015in)

The truck started up fine and purred like a kitten then sputtered and died 2 minutes later. My question is what did I do wrong? I have double and triple checked all the hoses that I had to disconnect to remove the valve cover and everything looks as it did this morning before I started.

For reference the FSM and my chilton manual gave the same info http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/7cylinder.pdf
My 85 4Runner build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46841.0

peacesells: "Its kinda fun tryin to avoid body damage, just like playing operation with different sound effects"

toe

Pdf look like a 22re

First, the spec for a 22re is .008I .012E hot.  (no range of value)

Generally .007I and .011E cold works perfectly.

Second, I doubt the adjustment is the problem;  you probably disconnected some wiring somewhere.............
Me

John Doe

Yes It is a 22re, forgot to mention that. My crappy Chilton manual is where I got the range values.

The only electrical that I came anywhere near touching is my coil wire that drapes across the back of my valve cover. The wiring is in pretty bad condition but since I get a good start when the engine is cold I am not thinking its the coil. I have gone over all the connections that I had touched and I do not find anything thats been left unplugged.
My 85 4Runner build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46841.0

peacesells: "Its kinda fun tryin to avoid body damage, just like playing operation with different sound effects"