Topic: Largest tires and wheels on a stock 89 4Runner 22RE

[groovehs]

I recently picked up a bone stock 89 4Runner 22RE as my new project rig. I'm not familiar with IFS rigs and don't have the money yet for a SAS. The previous owner had the truck set up on 14" wheels and low profile tires... don't ask, I got a killer deal on it. Obviously, I want to get a used set of wheels and tires immediately.

What is the largest size tire and wheel combo I can run without having issues with major power loss or breaking IFS components?

I saw a set of 17x9 w/ 4.75BS Pro Comp Extreme alloy with 265/70R17 (32") Mickey Bajas from a local Tundra, for good deal. Will this set up work on the Runner? I know they will bolt up and fit in the wheel wells.

BTW... I thought 17s would be get me more clearance when I air down.

I searched but did not find specific answers... so I thought I'd ask the experts on Marlin! Thanks!

[Snowtoy]

Depending on the back spacing used, you can fit a 31x10.50 on a 15x8 rim w/o issues.  A 32x11.50 tire will rub at the body seam on steering wheel lock/under compression.  Cutting or bending the seam over will fix the rubbing issue.  A 2-3" body lift will clear 33's, but if you don't want/need a BL after the SA, there are  other ways of clearing the larger tires.

With some 1.5" ball joint spacers, you could probably clear 33x12.50's, but would likely rub at full lock/compression, even w/the body seam mod.  The spacers will give you 1.5" of lift, as well as a little more wheel travel. 

You can also adjust the torsion bars, but that stiffens the ride and reduces the limited amount of up-travel the IFS has.

A combination of small lifts and modifications you can run 35's.  I clear 35's on my '91 w/2" body lift, 1.5" ball-joint spacers, body seam modification, and cutting two inches out of the fender.

Power loss you are looking at about 11% w/31's, 15% w/32's, 18% w/33's, and 25% w/35's.  You speedometer and mileage will also be off by the same amount, i.e, w/31's at 55mph on the speedometer, you are actually going 60mph.  A lot of people don't mind the 10% w/31's, and some will tell you they are fine w/25% loss and 35's, but most swap gears for either 33's or 35's.

The IFS components are pretty strong, providing you wheel with what is between your ears and not the skinny pedal.   The main durability issue w/IFS is bent idler arms and knocking it out of alignment on the trail, both of which can be fixed/avoided/or set before heading home.  I carry spare tie rod ends, and an idler arm, but have only needed one tie rod end.  The CV's are strong enough for an open diff, however when running a front locker they can/do break.  I carry two with me, but haven't broken one yet w/my front locker.

[GRM]

Without major power loss or IFS components: 31's. But its going to be even that much faster on 215's.

What can you fit without a lift and some mild hacking/hammering the firewall: 35's.

Snowtoy, the thing you didn't take into account in your power loss % is weight. You only took into account the reduction in gearing from the larger tires.

I'd take 215's and 4.10's over 35's and 5.29's any-day for driving on the road. My toyota is SLOW!

[Snowtoy]

Your right about the rotational mass of the tires also effecting the power loss, especially w/the 22r(e) motors, however that can be helped some /aluminum wheels instead of steel, and some engine mod's.

I'd take 215's and 4.10's over 35's and 5.29's any-day for driving on the road. My toyota is SLOW!

I understand completely.  I have 5.29's and 35's w/my '91, and it isn't all that enjoyable to drive performance wise, but then again it is basically a single purpose rig, and I am never in that much of hurry when heading wheeling.  If I had to drive it daily, I think I would run 33's for street use.  I know a lot of people prefer to run one gear taller than the tire size w/the 22r(e), for better highway performance.

[Snowtoy]

groovehs
After rereading your post, I am not sure if the rims will work w/a 4.75 BS, the most you can usually run is 4"BS on an IFS.  Youwont know if they work until you mount the front tires.

I thought 17s would be get me more clearance when I air down.

The 17's will give you more clearance when aired down, but will reduce the size of the contact patch the tire makes when aired down.  The type of tire will also determine the size of the contact patch, i.e., a more pliable sidewall will flatten out more, a stiffer one not so much.  It is likely that w/the Baja's on 17's, the contact patch wont be much larger than stock 28 tires.  Of course if the BS works, you could live with the smaller contact patch until you lift it and run larger tires.

[groovehs [OP]]

Thanks guys for the great info! It's the most informative answers I've seen for power loss with larger tires. Most guys just suggest to regear and run larger tires... with the economy slump, I can't afford to dump cash on regearing yet. I just need to get rid of the crappy 14" wheels!

I ran the Procomp 17" wheels today, as soon as I reached 55mph on the highway my check engine light came on... I checked the code and it showed "fuel mix was too lean". I'm sure it was the 32" tires and wide 9" wheels that were causing the engine to work overtime and I'll check the fuel filter too.

The wheels fit nice, I cranked the wheel while flat and on a high curb to check for rubbing... none so far. They do stick out a bit, so I doubt they'll stuff during full compression, but they are a great deal and they'll get me past the 14" wheels! They'll work for some light wheeling in the desert.

The 4.75" BS is common on Tundras, so it makes sense why the previous owner ran them... they work well on the Runner. The Procomp wheels are also aluminum, so it'll save some weight from steels.

Next thing to come off is the brush guard...

Thanks!

[Snowtoy]

Looks good.

as soon as I reached 55mph on the highway my check engine light came on... I checked the code and it showed "fuel mix was too lean". I'm sure it was the 32" tires and wide 9" wheels that were causing the engine to work overtime and I'll check the fuel filter too.

The larger tires shouldn't cause the truck to run lean, even at 55mph(64mph corrected for tire size), the engine wouldn't be working that hard.  It is likely a fuel delivery issue, i.e., dirty filter or clogged/non-working injector, or an intake leak.

The ecu registering a lean code means that there is an air/fuel issue beyond its ability to correct.  I would inspect the intake system, and do a vacuum leak test, along with replacing the fuel filter, alsocheck the exhaust system ahead of teh O2 sensors for leaks.  It might be time to send out the injectors to be cleaned and rebuilt.  You want to resolve the issue soon, running lean is a quick and easy way to burn valves.