Author Topic: 3vze spark plug thread repair (Read 11020 times)

jaywross · « **on:** Feb 21, 2009, 12:52:39 PM »

i have a 95 pickup with the 3.0L v6. the #1 cylinder i think( driver side, closest to the back or the motor) spark plug came out and screwed up the threads. so now i have to fix it. thinking about a helicoil. has anyone done this without actually removing the cylinder head? any input on this repair would be greatly appreciated.
thanks,

jason

jimbo74 · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 12:59:44 PM »

they specifically make thread repair taps to do this.... you don't need to remove the head... just read the instructions they come with

jimbo74 · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 01:01:28 PM »

http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html

jaywross · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 01:03:33 PM »

i know about the repair kits, my question is in regards to actually performing the repair without taking the head off? recommended or not? or even possible to do without taking the head off.?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 01:06:12 PM »

Quote from: jaywross on Feb 21, 2009, 01:03:33 PM

i know about the repair kits, my question is in regards to actually performing the repair without taking the head off? recommended or not? or even possible to do without taking the head off.?

the first thing it says on that page in the link i posted is,

"SPARK PLUG THREAD REPAIR KITS.
These kits are considered "Over the fender" meaning you do not have to remove the head."

jaywross · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 02:00:51 PM »

i would appreciate any input from anyone who has fist hand experience with this?!

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 02:12:46 PM »

I've never done it, but that is going to be a PITA to reach. Not saying it isn't possible, but that spark plug hole is hard enough to reach just to pull the spark plug out, let alone to do a repair on it.

As far as being recommended, I'm not sure. If you don't remove the head, you're going to be dumping tiny metal shavings into the cylinder. most likely they'll just burn up, they'll be that small, but they may not.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 02:14:51 PM »

there are ways to minimize chunks being spit into the cylinder when tapping..... i tapped some holes on my head and did not get anything inside.... pack it with grease, lots of thing... blow it out with compressed air......

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 03:29:54 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Feb 21, 2009, 02:14:51 PM

there are ways to minimize chunks being spit into the cylinder when tapping..... i tapped some holes on my head and did not get anything inside.... pack it with grease, lots of thing... blow it out with compressed air......

Key word Jimbo.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 03:36:26 PM »

Quote from: BLACKDOG on Feb 21, 2009, 03:29:54 PM

Key word Jimbo.

minimize or stop... whatever, i didn't get anything into my engien when i was doing my exhuast studs.... i know it's a little bit different, but i also had the engine out of the truck... you brought up a good point about not being able to get to the cylinder, i think if it is his front one though, it might not be too bad, but i am unfamiliar with the toyta 3.slow.... the 22r is easy to get to everything

and i have heard very knowledgeable peopel recommend time-serts..... it says right on there site you don't need to take off the head

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 03:48:43 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Feb 21, 2009, 03:36:26 PM

minimize or stop... whatever, i didn't get anything into my engien when i was doing my exhuast studs.... i know it's a little bit different, but i also had the engine out of the truck... you brought up a good point about not being able to get to the cylinder, i think if it is his front one though, it might not be too bad, but i am unfamiliar with the toyta 3.slow.... the 22r is easy to get to everything

and i have heard very knowledgeable peopel recommend time-serts..... it says right on there site you don't need to take off the head

Yeah, slightly different.

The front wouldn't be too hard, but If its the one he described (drivers side, near the back) its very difficult to get to. There is little to no room to access it. I don't think it's going to be impossible, but its going to be very difficult.

I tend not to take everything I see on the internet at face value. Thats based on how their tool works, not necessarily the access of the spark plug holes.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 03:56:20 PM »

ok, i thought the number #1 cylinder was up front near the passenger side and the radiator.... i guess it depends on who is looking at it where....

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 04:03:40 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Feb 21, 2009, 03:56:20 PM

ok, i thought the number #1 cylinder was up front near the passenger side and the radiator.... i guess it depends on who is looking at it where....

It is. I'm just basing it on the fact that he said #1 I think, and then gave a description. Based on the description, its actually #6

Snowtoy · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 07:41:48 PM »

Passenger side is 1,3,5 bumper-to-cab, and drivers side is 2,4,6, no other perspective, it should be the #6, unless he has a right side drive truck.

The over the fender kits do work, i fixed a spark plug on my Dad's 22r that way, and it held until the head was replaced. How permanent it is, I don't know, but it would be worth the money to try.

I would unbolt the t-case from the X-member and tilt the engine forward, to give you a little more room to reach the #6 plug.

Helpful hint for installing plugs:
Install the spark plugs using a small section of rubber hose, instead of a socket on an extension. If the spark plug starts to x-threads the hose will slip on the plug, whereas the socket and extension wont. Also torque them to 13ft lbs, not hand tight, over tightening them is an easy way to screw up the aluminum threads.

OOPS · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 07:49:43 PM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 21, 2009, 07:41:48 PM

Helpful hint for installing plugs:
Install the spark plugs using a small section of rubber hose, instead of a socket on an extension. If the spark plug starts to x-threads the hose will slip on the plug, whereas the socket and extension wont. Also torque them to 13ft lbs, not hand tight, over tightening them is an easy way to screw up the aluminum threads.

Good info, you forgot one thing, apply anti-seize to the threads on the sparkplug. Dissimilar metals like to corrode.

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 21, 2009, 08:00:57 PM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 21, 2009, 07:41:48 PM

Helpful hint for installing plugs:
Install the spark plugs using a small section of rubber hose, instead of a socket on an extension. If the spark plug starts to x-threads the hose will slip on the plug, whereas the socket and extension wont. Also torque them to 13ft lbs, not hand tight, over tightening them is an easy way to screw up the aluminum threads.

good trick! Been using it for a while, learned it trying to do spark plugs on my 3.0 the first time

jaywross · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 04:26:24 AM »

thanks guys for all the info, ya it woudl be the #6 plug.! i called napa and they said they have two inserts, helicoil and
another one the guy said was just the 'regular' one, whatever that means. the timeserts site says napa will have them, but the guy said he didnt know what it was. i'll have to go there on monday and show him and see if he has it. i think i'm leaning toward the timesert instead of the helicoil if i can get it.
later!

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 05:47:44 AM »

just looked threw real quick may have been mentioned when taping use grease on the taper and bring the cly up to the top so any shavings are right there in reach of a small magnet then blow out with air hose ( if any)

OOPS · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 06:15:33 AM »

Quote from: unclejpl4x4 on Feb 22, 2009, 05:47:44 AM

just looked threw real quick may have been mentioned when taping use grease on the taper and bring the cly up to the top so any shavings are right there in reach of a small magnet then blow out with air hose ( if any)

You have a magic magnet that works on aluminum?

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 06:29:27 AM »

lol

see thats what happend when you work on motors with steel heads it's habit, man i think i need more liqueur in my coffee

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 06:49:36 AM »

I have seen grease packed into the cyl and then the thread repaired. Before you put the plug back in turn it over and spit the grease out. You must make sure the cyl is on it way to the top in compression, and not on its way to the bottom. I personally have never done it, but I have seen it work.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 22, 2009, 02:35:57 PM »

Quote from: OOPS on Feb 21, 2009, 07:49:43 PM

Good info, you forgot one thing, apply anti-seize to the threads on the sparkplug. Dissimilar metals like to corrode.

True. It didn't cross my mind to mention it, I figured it was common knowledge to do. I know it was something I learned to do from my Dad long ago. Though at the time he told me it was to prevent the plug from rusting to the cast iron head(he built/raced hotrods back in the 50's), when I mentioned that the head was aluminum and aluminum can't rust, he smacked me across the back of the head and said to do it anyways.

jaywross [OP]

jaywross [OP]

jaywross [OP]

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