Author Topic: Timing belt on 3.0 v6 broke, are valves toast also? Help more q's 3/14 (Read 37672 times)

Thomas P · « **on:** Feb 06, 2009, 11:05:23 PM »

My brother had the timing belt break, while driving and we were wondering if the valves were shot before tearing into it... anyone know?

Joey88RUNR · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 06, 2009, 11:13:26 PM »

I think it should be fine, my first car, not a toyota, busted the belt I cranked and cranked that thing, Had no idea at the time what was goin on, did the timing belt on it and ran like a champ!.....I would think if the valves hit the piston, it would have made a loud noise

Thomas P · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 06, 2009, 11:25:25 PM »

i know in a 22r the valves would be shot but the newer v6???

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 07, 2009, 07:03:40 AM »

3.0 & 3.4 are non-interference motors. 22R and 2.7 are interference motors. I think your safe.

Thomas P · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 07, 2009, 10:38:40 AM »

thanks a lot man! 8)

Snowtoy · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 07, 2009, 06:15:17 PM »

As mentioned you should be ok since it is a non-interference engine.

I would replace the T-belt and check the compression before re-installing the intake manifold, so if you have a burnt exhaust/leaky HG you can pull it down now.

The crankshaft bolt can be a PITA, w/o a counter holding bar, I couldn't break mine loose by hand or by using the starter. I couldn't find one to rent or buy, so I made my own out of some scrap steel.

If you brother has ever considered putting on headers, now would also be a good time, it is a lot easier installing them w/the intake manifold off.

tech201 · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 07, 2009, 08:26:05 PM »

why would the intake be off to replace a timing belt??

Snowtoy · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 08, 2009, 04:15:52 PM »

If you aren't familiar w/the 3.0's the right head sits under the upper intake plenum, I was thinking he would remove the valve covers to set the cams at TDC when installing a new t-belt. When I posted I forgot that the cam gears do/should have little mark on them to determine their TDC, so he shouldn't need to remove the upper intake plenum.

Thomas P · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 05:14:17 PM »

ok new question, we took the truck to a mechanics house to have the belt done, and he said that the belt did break and that the valves must have been bent also because he can turn the crank pulley by hand which means that the motor has no compression. i told him that the motor is a non interference motor and that the valves shouldnt have been touched. he took offfense to it and told me that he has been working on toyotas motors for a long time and that all toyta motors up until 1999 were interference motors and assured me that this motor was toast. WTF? Does anyone know what my next step is? Should I just junk this motor and buy my buddies 40,000 mile 3.0 for $500 and swap it in? or put the belt on this one and call it good?

bambbrose · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 06:06:51 PM »

take it to a new shop. If the timing belt broke then at any given time only three of the cylinders will be closed shut, and there are a few specific times that all of the cylinders could have a slightly open valve in one way or another. Just because he can turn it by hand doesn't mean that it has bent valves.

Thomas P · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 07:58:47 PM »

its my brothers and he is 16 with no job and no $$$, the guy was gonna do it on the side to keep costs low, the motor swap will cost him (money i will loan him) $500, taking it to a shop could be a lot more, im just looking for some advice here

dniel · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 09:50:25 PM »

If you know for sure the other motor has 40k on it you can't beat 500$. If you guys swap the motors yourself it will probably be cheaper than having the belt done on the other motor. Some years of the 3.0 were actually good motors and will go for 200k or more. How many miles are on the motor with the broken belt?

Dingman. · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 10:37:24 PM »

That guy is retarded...

These are non inference motors, and if the mechanic takes offense to someone letting him know that i would look elsewhere.
$500 isn't horrible for a 3.0 with 40,000 miles on it.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 10:41:29 PM »

Depending on where the cams came to rest, you could have a valve open on every cylinder, so there wouldn't be any compression. The cheapest route(about $80) would be to buy T-belt and install it yourself. You will need to remove the crank pulley, and water pump, along w/the front cover. You will need to buy/make your own counter holding bar to remove the crank pulley. You might be able to get leaving the truck in gear, but that method didn't work for me, so I made my own bar for under $2. Set the crank to TDC, set the the cam gears, and attach the belt. Crank it over and see what the compression numbers are. If the number are all with/spec, button it up and be done. If you still have no comp on all or some, then swap in another 3.0, or tear into the one he has. You should be able to tell what you have w/in a few hours on Sat. Here is an online '93 Toyota FSM, that will work for any 3.0 t-belt.

Dingman. · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 14, 2009, 11:05:47 PM »

Good advice!

If you do this, i would recommend replacing the waterpump and thermostat at the same time. No sense in havign to do it again shortly after!

Thomas P · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 15, 2009, 12:10:49 AM »

thanks so much! i already have the thermostat, water pump and timing belt, we were gonna have the "mechanic" do everything, but i know I can handle that stuff myself if i can find the time, i will try to resurrect the old motor first then if it doesnt work out i will tranfers the new parts to the new motor since it will be on a stand anyways!

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 15, 2009, 07:16:45 AM »

That mechanic is a joke.

Heres some reference material for you.

2jz motors are non-interference
VVTi (98+) 2jz motors are interference

1MZ-FE is non-interference
1MZ-FE with VVTi is interference
3MZ-FE is interference

All VZ blocks are non-interference

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/topic/37831-1.html

4A-FE is a non-interference
4A-GE is interference

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/topic/185520-1.html

I also found this:

Engine: Interference
1.5 (1A-C, 3A-C) Yes
1.5 (5E-FE) No
1.6 (SOHC) No
1.6 (DOHC) Yes
1.8 (Gas) No
1.8 (Diesel) Yes
2.0 No
2.2 (Gas) No
2.2 (Diesel) Yes
2.4 (Diesel) Yes
2.5 No
2.8 No
3.0 (Inline 6) No
3.0 (2JZ-GE) Yes
3.0 V-6) No
3.4 No
4.7 Yes

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/bl_timingbelts6.htm

and here

Toyota Motor Corporation has produced a wide variety of automobile engines. The company follows a simple naming system for their modern engines: 1. The first numeric characters specify the engine block's generation 2. The next one or two letters specify the engine family 3.
The suffix (separated by a dash) specifies the features of the engine:
Suffix Feature A Valvematic variable lift intake head
B Twin SU-style side-draft carburetors
C Carburated / California Emissions Controlled
D Twin Downdraft carburetors
E Electronic Fuel injection
F Economy narrow-angle valve DOHC
G Performance wide-angle valve DOHC
H High compression like 9.8:1 (example: 5E-FHE)High pressure charged (example: 2L-THE)
I Single-point fuel injection
J Autochoke (Early models) or unknown pollution control
L Transverse
M Philippines' market (meaning unknown)
N CNG fuel
P LPG fuel
R Low Compression (For 87 and below octane fuel)
S Swirl intake (1980s)
SE Direct injection (1990s)
T Turbocharged
U With Catalytic converter Japan-spec emissions
V Common Rail Diesel Injection (D-4D)
X Atkinson cycle (typically also indicates a Hybrid engine, as Toyota only uses the Atkinson cycle with hybrids)
Z Supercharged

For Example•
4A-GE 4 - 4th Generation Engine In The A Engine FamilyA - The Engine Family it is inG - Wide-angle dual camshaftE - Electronically Fuel Injected•

22R-TEC 22 - 22nd Generation Engine In The R Engine FamilyR - The Engine Family it is inT - TurbochargedE - Electronically Fuel InjectedC - California Emission Controlled• Note: Toyota, in 1987, began assigning dual letter engine codes to some of the "engine family" categories in some engine lines, particularly six cylinder models. This can create potential confusion.

Eg. 1UZ-FE - This is not a supercharged, narrow angle, fuel injected U-series engine, but a narrow angle, fuel injected UZ-series engine. Confusion is easiest to avoid when using the dash to separate between the engine series and its own characteristics: for instance,
1UZ-FE rather than 1U-ZFE

Contents
1 Gasoline/Petrol
1.1 Flat-twin
1.2 Straight-3
1.3 Straight-4
1.4 Straight-6
1.5 V6
1.6 V8
1.7 V12
2 Diesel
2.1 Straight-4
2.2 Straight-5
2.3 Straight-6
2.4 V8
3 References
4 External links

Gasoline/Petrol
Flat-twin:
1961 - U
1961-1966 - 697 cc U
1965-1969 - 790 cc 2U
1966-1976 - 790 cc 2U-B

Straight-3:
2004 - KR - DOHC
2004 - 1.0 L (998 cc) 1KR

Straight-4:
1939 - Type C - OHV
1939-1941 - 2.3 L (2259 cc) C

1947 - Type S - OHV
1947-? - 1.0 L (995 cc) S

1953 - R - OHV/SOHC/DOHC
1953-1964 - 1.5 L (1453 cc) R
1964-1969 - 1.5 L (1490 cc) 2R
1959-1968 - 1.9 L (1897 cc) 3R
1965-1968 - 1.6 L (1587 cc) 4R
1968-1986 - 2.0 L (1994 cc) 5R
1969-1974 - 1.7 L (1707 cc) 6R
1968-1970 - 1.6 L (1591 cc) 7R
1968-1972 - 1.9 L (1858 cc) 8R
1967-1968 - 1.6 L (1587 cc) 9R
1968-1971 - 1.9 L (1858 cc) 10R
1969-1988 - 1.6 L (1587 cc) 12R
1974-1980 - 1.8 L (1808 cc) 16R
1971-1982 - 2.0 L (1968 cc) 18R
1975-1977 - 2.0 L (1968 cc) 19R
1974-1980 - 2.2 L (2189 cc) 20R
1978-1987 - 2.0 L (1972 cc) 21R
1980-1995 - 2.4 L (2366 cc) 22R

1959 - P
1959-1961 - 1.0 L (997 cc) P
1961-1972 - 1.2 L (1198 cc) 2P
1972-1979 - 1.3 L (1345 cc) 3P

1966 - K - OHV
1966-1969 - 1.1 L (1077 cc) K
1969-1988 - 1.0 L (993 cc) 2K
1969-1979 - 1.2 L (1166 cc) 3K
1978-1989 - 1.3 L (1290 cc) 4K
1983-1989 - 1.5 L (1496 cc) 5K
1998-1998 - 1.8 L (1781 cc) 7K

1970 - T - OHV/DOHC
1970-1979 - 1.4 L (1407 cc) T
1970-1985 - 1.6 L (1588 cc) 2T
1977-1985 - 1.8 L (1770 cc) 3T
1970-1983 - 1.6 L (1588 cc) 12T
1977-1982 - 1.8 L (1770 cc) 13T

1978 - A - SOHC/DOHC
1978-1979 - 1.5 L (1452 cc) 1A
1979-1986 - 1.3 L (1295 cc) 2A
1979-1988 - 1.5 L (1452 cc) 3A
1980-1998 - 1.6 L (1587 cc) 4A
1987-1998 - 1.5 L (1498 cc) 5A
1989-1992 - 1.4 L (1397 cc) 6A
1993-1998 - 1.8 L (1762 cc) 7A
2004 - 1.3 L (1342 cc) 8A

1982 - S - SOHC/DOHC
1982-1988 - 1.8 L (1832 cc) 1S
1982-1987 - 2.0 L (1995 cc) 2S
1985-2005 - 2.0 L (1998 cc) 3S
1987-1998 - 1.8 L (1838 cc) 4S
1990-1995 - 2.2 L (2164 cc) 5S

1982 - Y
1982 - 1.6 L (1626 cc) 1Y
1982 - 1.8 L (1812 cc) 2Y
1982-1998 - 2.0 L (1998 cc) 3Y
1985-1993 - 2.2 L (2237 cc) 4Y

1985 - E - SOHC/DOHC
1985-1994 - 1.0 L (999 cc) 1E
1985-1998 - 1.3 L (1295 cc) 2E
1986-1994 - 1.5 L (1456 cc) 3E
1989-1998 - 1.3 L (1331 cc) 4E
1991-1998 - 1.5 L (1497 cc) 5E

1990 - TZ - DOHC
1990-2000 - 2.4 L (2438 cc) 2TZ
1997 - ZZ - DOHC æ 1997 - 1.8 L (1794 cc) 1ZZ
1999-2006 - 1.8 L (1796 cc) 2ZZ
2000 - 1.6 L (1598 cc) 3ZZ
2000 - 1.4 L (1398 cc) 4ZZ

1998 - RZ - SOHC/DOHC
1998 - 2.0 L (1998 cc) 1RZ
1995 - 2.4 L (2400 cc) 2RZ
1995 - 2.7 L (2693 cc) 3RZ
1999 - SZ - DOHC (by Daihatsu)
1999 - 1 L (997 cc) 1SZ
? - 1.3 L (1298 cc) 2SZ
2006 - 1.5 L (1495 cc) 3SZ

1997 - NZ - DOHC
1997 - 1.5 L (1496 cc) 1NZ
1999 - 1.3 L (1298 cc) 2NZ

2000 - AZ - DOHC
2000 - 2.0 L (1998 cc) 1AZ
2000 - 2.4 L (2362 cc) 2AZ

2003 - TR - DOHC
2003 - 2.0 L (1998 cc) 1TR
2003 - 2.7 L (2694 cc) 2TR

2007 - ZR - DOHC
2007 - 1.6 L (1598 cc) 1ZR
2007 - 1.8 L (1797 cc) 2ZR
2007 - 2.0 L (1986 cc) 3ZR

2009 - AR - DOHC
2009 - 2.5 L 1AR æ 2009 - 2.7 L 2AR

Straight-6:
1935 - Type A - OHV
1935-1943 - 3.4 L (3389 cc) A

1937 - Type B - OHV
1937-? - 3.4 L (3389 cc) B

1948 - F - OHV
1948-1975 - 3.9 L (3878 cc) F
1975-1987 - 4.2 L (4230 cc) 2F
1985-1992 - 4.0 L (3956 cc) 3F

1965 - M - SOHC/DOHC
1965-1985 - 2.0 L (1988 cc) M
1966-1972 - 2.3 L (2253 cc) 2M
1966-1971 - 2.0 L (1988 cc) 3M
1972-1980 - 2.6 L (2563 cc) 4M
1979-1988 - 2.8 L (2759 cc) 5M
1984-1987 - 3.0 L (2954 cc) 6M
1986-1992 - 3.0 L (2954 cc) 7M

1979 - G - SOHC/DOHC
1979 - 2.0 L (1988 cc) 1G

1993 - FZ - DOHC
1993- 4.5 L (4477 cc) 1FZ
1990 - JZ - DOHC
1990 - 2.5 L (2491 cc) 1JZ
1993 - 3.0 L (2997 cc) 2JZ

V6:
1987 - VZ - DOHC
1987 - 2.0 L (1992 cc) 1VZ
1987-1991 - 2.5 L (2496 cc) 2VZ
1987-1997 - 3.0 L (2958 cc) 3VZ
1993-1998 - 2.5 L (2496 cc) 4VZ
1995-2004 - 3.4 L (3378 cc) 5VZ

1994 - MZ - DOHC
1994 - 3.0 L (2995 cc) 1MZ
1998 - 2.5 L (2496 cc) 2MZ
2003 - 3.3 L (3310 cc) 3MZ

2003 - GR - DOHC/VVT-i
2002 - 4.0 L (3955 cc) 1GR
2006 - 3.5 L (3456 cc) 2GR
2003 - 3.0 L (2994 cc) 3GR
2006 - 2.5 L (2499 cc) 4GR

V8:
1963 - V - OHV
1963-1967 - 2.6 L (2599 cc) V
1967-1973 - 3.0 L (2981 cc) 3V
1973-1983 - 3.4 L (3376 cc) 4V
1983-1998 - 4.0 L (3995 cc) 5V

1989 - UZ - DOHC
1989 - 4.0 L (3969 cc) 1UZ
1998 - 4.7 L (4663 cc) 2UZ
2000 - 4.3 L (4300 cc) 3UZ

2006 - UR - DOHC/VVT-i
2006 - 4.6 L (4608 cc) 1UR
2007 - 5.0 L (4969 cc) 2UR
2007 - 5.7 L (5663 cc) 3UR

V12:
1997 - GZ - DOHC
1997 - 5.0 L (4996 cc) 1GZ-FE

Diesel-
Straight-4:
1974 - B Second gen. - OHV/SOHC
1972-1988 - 3.0 L (2977 cc) B
1977-1982 - 3.2 L (3168 cc) 2B
1980-1990 - 3.4 L (3431 cc) 3B
1984-?

- 3.0 L (2977 cc) 11B
1984-1990 - 3.4 L (3431 cc) 13B
1988-?

- 3.7 L (3660 cc) 14B
1996-2002 - 4.1 L (4104 cc) 15B

1980 - L - SOHC
1977-1983 - 2.2 L (2188 cc) L
1980-200? - 2.4 L (2446 cc) 2L
19??-2006 - 2.4 L (2446 cc) 2L-II change rocker arm to direct tappet drive
1989-20?? - 2.4 L (2446 cc) 2L-E
1991-1997 - 2.8 L (2779 cc) 3L
1997-?

- 3.0 L (2986 cc) 5L

1984 - C Third gen. - SOHC
1984-1992 - 1.8 L (1839 cc) 1C
1984-2000 - 2.0 L (1974 cc) 2C
1994-2002 - 2.2 L (2184 cc) 3C

1986 - N - SOHC
1986-19?? - 1.4 L (1453 cc) 1N

1993 - KZ - SOHC
1993-? - 3.0 L (2982 cc) 1KZ

2000 - CD - DOHC
2000-2006 2.0 L (1995 cc) 1CD-FTV

2001 - ND - DOHC
2001- 1.4 L (1364 cc) 1ND-TV

2001 - KD - DOHC
2001- 2.5 L (2494 cc) 2KD-FTV
2001- 3.0 L (2982 cc) 1KD-FTV

2005 - AD - DOHC
2005- 2.2 L (2231 cc) 2AD-FTV
2005- 2.2 L (2231 cc) 2AD-FHV
2006- 2.0 L (1998 cc) 1AD-FTV

Straight-5:
1989 - PZ - SOHC
1990-1994? - 3.5 L (3469 cc) 1PZ

Straight-6:
1956- D - OHV
1956-??? 5.9 liter 1D
1962-??? 6.5 liter 2D

1967 - H - OHV

-??? - 3.6 L (3576 cc) H
1980-1990 - 4.0 L (3980 cc) 2H
1986-1990 - 4.0 L (3980 cc) 12HT

1990 - HD - SOHC
1989-1995 4.2 L (4164 cc) 1HD-T
1995-1997 4.2 L (4164 cc) 1HD-FT
1997- 4.2 L (4164 cc) 1HD-FTE

1990 - HZ - SOHC
1989- 4.2 L (4163 cc) 1HZ

V8:
2007 - VD - DOHC
2007- 4.5 L (4461 cc) 1VD-FTV

TY Avy

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 15, 2009, 09:48:35 AM »

thomas I have done a dozen of the 3.0s t belts
never had a problem

bring it down i will slap that new one on for 100

I could do it with my eyes closed, but dont worry I will keep them open

Thomas P · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 15, 2009, 09:51:27 AM »

i think im gonna put it on, its already torn down and set to TDC, so its halfway there. I appreciate the offer though heath, the "mechanic" was going to charge $250 for labor alone

Marlin · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 05:43:13 PM »

4runnerchevy;

It is fourm members like you that make this such a great
board.

Thanks for your time and a fantastic job covering the 3.0 and others. $Beer Chug\'n$

Marlin

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 06:23:40 PM »

No problem

I had help compiling the info so thanks everyone involved.

If there are any mistakes please let me know so I can correct.

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 06:52:35 PM »

want and did it for thomas today
all is well and it runs great.

thomas is a awesome guy to deal with.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 07:10:17 PM »

Super

Thomas P · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 10:17:41 PM »

thanks heath, but got some bad news..... everythink worked tits until the test drive, i made it to the top of the road and it majorly overheated puffing steam out like a mofo, i hope that i didnt blow the HG, im thinkin the cheap ass auto zone thermostat might have failed, i called it quits after i got it back to my in laws house, im so pissed/stressed over it, and thanks again heath, you busted that

out like a pro!

Snowtoy · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 10:42:52 PM »

Did it over heat or did the radiator cap just let go? I had my rad cap do that one year while snow wheeling in late May. I replaced it and the t-stat(always use a Toyota one) and it solved the problem.

The oem gasket can handle some levels of overheating. My '90 3.0 would over heat on days above 105 and using the A/C. Having the radiator rebuilt solved that problem.

I would replace the radiator cap and get an oem t-stat, and see what it does.

Thomas P · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 10:46:43 PM »

i hope youre right about the heat not getting to it, i had the work done to suprise my 16 year old brother with his truck fixed, i dont want to have to say "suprise, you needed a timing belt, but now you need a headgasket!" i dont know if i can sleep tonight thinking i f 'ed up a headgasket......

Thomas P · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 10:47:17 PM »

it wasnt coming from the radiator cap

Snowtoy · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 11:05:04 PM »

Where was the steam coming from? You said to the top of the hill, how long had it been running?

Dingman. · « **Reply #28 on:** Mar 16, 2009, 11:16:47 PM »

x2... any hoses missing? broken?

Let me know if you need any hoses, etc...
bought ready to throw all the 3.0 crap away.

Marlin · « **Reply #29 on:** Mar 17, 2009, 06:31:01 AM »

WOAH, HOLD THE JOB;

Do you mean to tell me that no one purged the cooling system of air?
NOW, I am surprised

Well, you don't have to shout Marlin

The cooling system must always be purged of air at the heater core/heater valve connection.

If you have the proper two stage thermostat and the rubber sealing gasket, and the system was not vented of the air, the truck will always overheat until the hot air that is trapped around the water pump works out of the cooling system. After all, the factory specifically designed the cooling system so it could be vented of air at the heater valve. This is true on all 20/22 and 3.0/3.4 motors.

What Marlin is saying is to locate the heater hose that has a hose clamp installed from the factory that is before the heater valve and vent the air as the coolant is added in the radiator.

THIS MUST BE DONE.

Allright Marlin, get your a## off that shoe box and back to work.

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

Thomas P [OP]

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