Author Topic: 86 1uz/fe 44" TSLs (Read 53577 times)

Toymin8r · « **Reply #150 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 05:34:36 PM »

I'm keeping the front ones(the ones on the exhaust manifolds) in the stock locations. I have read about a few different methods of fooling the back two after removing the CATS on Lextreme. I'm gonna try using the spark plug anti-foulers and see if it works. I'm running 2.5" into a single 3" pipe. I don't know where you would even fit 2 CATS.

THK Matt · « **Reply #151 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 05:50:32 PM »

STEVE! WE NEED AN UPDATE ON YOUR TRUCK!!!

update in your thread? or have u not made one?

TacoRunner · « **Reply #152 on:** Dec 22, 2009, 08:38:57 AM »

Its the unspoken rule of the Forum, you either update your build thread or you have to donate your rig and all its parts to a needy member on the board.

dniel · « **Reply #153 on:** Dec 22, 2009, 05:29:20 PM »

I tried mocking the cats up several ways and there was no practical way to do it. Your exhaust is looking good. Are you using a 220 welder? I don't really want to spring for a 110 right now so I'm going to give it a shot with my miller 175 with the thinnest wire it will take. The exhaust material seems to be quite a bit thicker than sheet metal so it should be doable.

Here is a little more progress on the crossmember. tomorrow I will cut off the pass. end and see about getting so tube bent for the hoop.

Toymin8r · « **Reply #154 on:** Dec 23, 2009, 02:51:46 AM »

Yeah I'm using a Lincoln 3200 (135amp) but the Miller should do it just fine as long as you turn it down. The exhaust is either 14 or 16 tauge and sheetmetal is usually 20 gauge. I burned through a couple of times but you can still fill it. I don't care what it looks like as long as it works.

Jud · « **Reply #155 on:** Dec 23, 2009, 11:44:33 PM »

looks good still

dniel · « **Reply #156 on:** Jan 06, 2010, 03:24:56 PM »

Got the middle cross member finished up. I struggled to find a way to do this and still allow access to the bolts that connect the cross member to the tail housing. This is what I finally came up with. Need to get the pass. side frame mount done and then I can get started on the exhaust

dniel · « **Reply #157 on:** Jan 12, 2010, 04:47:06 PM »

Got the cross member finished up and welded into place.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #158 on:** Jan 12, 2010, 06:22:31 PM »

crossmembers look good! flat belly'n it!

YOTA yota · « **Reply #159 on:** Jan 12, 2010, 08:07:55 PM »

Is that t-case clocked 10*? Got any interior pics of how much floor you cut up??

dniel · « **Reply #160 on:** Jan 22, 2010, 06:26:39 PM »

Quote from: YOTA yota on Jan 12, 2010, 08:07:55 PM

Is that t-case clocked 10*? Got any interior pics of how much floor you cut up??

The case is probably closer to 20*. 10* at the trans. adapter and 10* at the duel case adapter. There are pics of the floor in the thread. You shouldn't have to cut as much as I did for a flat belly. My drive train height is more about where the motor had to sit than the trans. and cases.

Forward part of exhaust finished.

Got my dutchman shafts and got them installed.

Breaks fit with room to spare in a 16.5 rim.

Mounted rear wheels so I can roll it back and pull the motor. Lug nuts on the newer 14 bolt are 22mm. Yeah everybody has one of those laying around.

On the upside I'm really liking the stance with the wider rear axle.

Phazertwo · « **Reply #161 on:** Jan 22, 2010, 07:38:45 PM »

That thing is HUGE!!

PZ

TheCookieMonster · « **Reply #162 on:** Jan 22, 2010, 09:02:02 PM »

that crossmember came out sick man... its getting closer keep up the work $Beer Chug\'n$

ElkoToy · « **Reply #163 on:** Jan 22, 2010, 09:02:36 PM »

Looks good Lots of work

dniel · « **Reply #164 on:** Jan 23, 2010, 03:09:43 PM »

Pulled the truck out of the shed to get the engine hoist in and do some clean up. It is pretty much finished structurally. I will probably lower the front a couple inches but the rear sits just about perfect. This will be the last update for a while as I have lots of painting and running lines to do to get it running.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #165 on:** Jan 23, 2010, 07:04:06 PM »

looks like it sits pretty low. how many inches from the ground to the bottom of your frame by the doors?

dniel · « **Reply #166 on:** Feb 02, 2010, 07:29:28 PM »

It sits at about 27".

New beefier motor mounts. I was able to use the 22r cradles which I like for taking the motor in and out.

Steering shaft.

zippo · « **Reply #167 on:** Feb 03, 2010, 04:52:23 PM »

Everything about that is HUGE! nice work!

dniel · « **Reply #168 on:** Feb 13, 2010, 03:44:30 PM »

York mount.

dniel · « **Reply #169 on:** Feb 14, 2010, 06:21:34 PM »

Some advice for people tapping your steering box. Do not unscrew this part all the way just to see how it works.

You will end up with this.

To put them back replace the shaft about 3/4 of the way. Remove the tube on the side. Then stuff as many of the bearings as you can into the holes. You will be left with a few that will not fit. Put a dab of grease at each end of the tube and place the remaining bearings in the tube. The grease will keep the bearings from coming out. Replace the tube and your done.

Bazzi · « **Reply #170 on:** Feb 18, 2010, 02:28:33 PM »

before you start putting those balls in I would contact the dealership and check how many the balls should be, because if you loose 1 you´ll end up with a broken box.... They are supposed to be something around 50 can´t remember the exact number

zippo · « **Reply #171 on:** Feb 18, 2010, 02:39:23 PM »

GOOGLE will tell you. Use a little greese to hold them in and start feeding them in.

dniel · « **Reply #172 on:** Feb 19, 2010, 07:28:48 PM »

Luckily when I unscrewed it it was upright so all the balls went to the bottom of the cylinder. All the info I could find said there should be 44 balls and that is what I had. It went together pretty fast once I found a little write up on how to do it.

dniel · « **Reply #173 on:** Feb 21, 2010, 05:49:12 PM »

I need some advice from the metal worker/fabricator types. The horse collar that the front of the gas tank hangs from is in the way of my rear drive line so it has to go. I'm thinking of leaving about 1/3 of it on the pass. side so I can still hang the tank from it.

I'm am thinking of plating the frame in front of it and running a brace angled back to the frame. I would then box it in to the stock cross member with cross braces. My question is will the weight of the tank put serious amounts of fatigue on the frame and cause it to crack over time?

TacoRunner · « **Reply #174 on:** Feb 21, 2010, 05:56:46 PM »

All this and you are going to keep the stock tank in the stock location. Why?

You will be ok as long as you brace it enough. If not then yes it will crack.

dniel · « **Reply #175 on:** Feb 21, 2010, 07:26:53 PM »

Quote from: TacoRunner on Feb 21, 2010, 05:56:46 PM

All this and you are going to keep the stock tank in the stock location. Why?

You will be ok as long as you brace it enough. If not then yes it will crack.

It fits there and I don't really have any place else to put it. It seems to be tucked up pretty well and is protected somewhat by the rear springs. With a good skid plate I think it should be OK. I considered using one of the Ford tanks that would fit between the frame rails where the spare goes. I rejected this because I want to try and fit a 37" spare in that location. Even if I did put the ford tank there it would be in addition to the stock tank not as a replacement.

I guess because my brother started this thread I never laid out the specs or purpose of the rig. The primary purpose is to be a bullet proof expedition and gold dredging truck. I am building it to fit 44"tires for when I want to do some harder core wheeling but it will live most of it's life on 37" military tires. When I go wheeling any kind of distance from home I will carry the 44"s in the bed and switch them out at the trail head. At any rate wether carrying gear or tires bed space will be at a premium. I also plan to add a removable lumber rack for more storage space. This truck by johny5 on pirate is the inspiration for the build though I will do many things different I love the basic look of it. I will do the back of mine quite a bit different and will have a lumber rack that comes out over the hood.

pumkin toy · « **Reply #176 on:** Feb 21, 2010, 08:23:14 PM »

i think your bracing idea will be just fine. I wouldnt worry about the frame cracking at all.

TacoRunner · « **Reply #177 on:** Feb 21, 2010, 10:51:05 PM »

Quote from: pumkin toy on Feb 21, 2010, 08:23:14 PM

i think your bracing idea will be just fine. I wouldnt worry about the frame cracking at all.

I concur, do it, IF it cracks then build something new.

Jordan7118 · « **Reply #178 on:** Feb 24, 2010, 03:40:26 PM »

I run an F150 tank behind the rear axle. It makes pretty good use of space. That's a route you could go if you didn't want to use the stock saddle-bag gas tank.

whokrz · « **Reply #179 on:** Feb 27, 2010, 08:41:28 AM »

I would build something that looked more like a budbuilt cross member but for the gas tank not the case.

With the thin metal you should be able to hug the body to clear the drive line and have better support.

whokrz [OP]

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