Author Topic: Hydro assist on the cheap  (Read 220846 times)

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SloCrawler

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #420 on: Nov 02, 2010, 04:51:13 PM »
Your right I watched it again on the dvr and they work almost as well, I thought it was the other way around. I got a 2" ram so I should use the one that works better..

zippo

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #421 on: Nov 02, 2010, 05:23:12 PM »
Unless you are doing some crazy dry scrubbing "turning the wheel lock to lock while not moving" i don't think you would really ever notice the difference aslong as you are using some sort of cooler.
« Last Edit: Nov 02, 2010, 05:28:52 PM by zippo »
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blrunner

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #422 on: Dec 07, 2010, 04:16:02 PM »
I was reading Fred's40 write up on his steering box mod for hydro assist on another thread somewhere in the Marlin site forum, and I'm confused as to where to tap my box. I have an '89 runner and would like to perform the hydro assist mod as well. In another thread that Fred's 40 posted, he added some info done up by a guy named Rick into his thread. Rick's info is as follows and my question are at the end of this info: Re: Hydro Assist:box and pump mods
Reply #28 on: April 17, 2005, 04:55:59 PM  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rick posted some info for working the FJ 80 boxes. Here it is borrowed (with Rick's permission) from the Tuki build:

 I wanted to abbreviate a few differences in dealing with the FJ80 box. (Its
my understanding that the FJ-80 box is also identical to the FJ55/60/62.)

STEPS:

0.) Remove and thoroughly clean outside of the steering box.

1.) Center the pitman arm.

3.) Remove the pitman arm.

4.) Remove top 4 bolts above sector shaft, 14 mm.

5.) Remove Sector Shaft.

6.) Turn input shaft so internal piston moves toward input end.

IFS box - CounterClockWise
FJ80 box - ClockWise

7.) Remove centering valve, 10mm allen. (if required)

8.) Remove 4 bolts from input shaft housing, 14 mm.

9.) Remove input shaft, don't let the internal piston spin off the input shaft.

10.) Clean the housing and stuff rags into sector shaft bearings and seals.

11.) Drill and tap housing. Typically on IFS boxes, people tap one hole in the
top and then one on opposite side of the TOYODA. But I've found that the top
hole is really difficult on the FJ-80 boxes since there appears to be less meat in
the top of some of the steering box housings plus you can't drill completely
though the box in that location. So what I've see other people do and did
myself, was I tapped a hole in the end of the box. Anywhere in the end will work
fine.

12.) Clean out the shavings and re-assembly with some lube.

13.) Plumb box to ram assist cylinder.

IFS - Top/End hole has pressure when turning left,
IFS - Side hole (TOYODA) has pressure when turning right.

FJ80 Box - Top/End hole has pressure when turning right,
FJ80 Box - Side hole (TOYODA) has pressure when turning left.



Hopefully that helps you other guys when dealing with these reverse rotation FJ80 steering boxes.

My question is: 1.) Under # 11 above, Rick states that people typically drill one hole on the top and one on the opposite side of "TOYODA". From everything I have seen on sites dealing with this mod people have been drilling either on the "TOYODA" or as member Fred's40 did just off to the side of it for clearance later if the box needs to be moved forward. So, do I tap the hole on the "TOYODA" side, or do I tap it somewhere on the engine side?

4RunnerChevy

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #423 on: Dec 07, 2010, 04:32:40 PM »
I believe you can tap that Toyoda hole anywhere around the box, as long as it lines up with the D.  Its all the same chamber.  If you look into the housing where the D would drill into, it will give you an idea where you can tap.  Just be careful not to set you thread depth too deep in either hole (especially the top vein hole).  Make Sense  :confused:

blrunner

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #424 on: Dec 07, 2010, 04:38:33 PM »
Ok, thanks for the info 4runnerchevy!

Volcom

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #425 on: Dec 07, 2010, 09:39:24 PM »






Here's where I tapped mine.
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blrunner

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #426 on: Dec 08, 2010, 04:18:18 AM »
Thanks Volcom! Now I can do mine. :thumbs:

<MIKE>

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #427 on: Dec 19, 2010, 06:56:25 PM »
is there a need for any type of bushing on the ram cross tubes? like shock bushings?
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4RunnerChevy

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #428 on: Dec 19, 2010, 08:27:30 PM »
is there a need for any type of bushing on the ram cross tubes? like shock bushings?
Nope!

<MIKE>

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SloCrawler

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #430 on: Jan 12, 2011, 09:28:40 AM »
think something like this will work for resevore or cooler on a 2" ram, trying to save money and have thing like this layin around longer and shorter.

superyota

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #431 on: Jan 12, 2011, 10:06:26 AM »
being you already have it, i would run it.  it should be more than enough for extra capacity.  never used something like that, so i'm not really sure if it will cool it enough, but i would guess it would.  looks good.
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SloCrawler

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #432 on: Jan 12, 2011, 10:23:15 AM »
Probly do what you said for cooler, think ill use this for extra fluid

freds40 [OP]

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #433 on: Jan 12, 2011, 10:35:30 AM »
I would be careful running a 2" ram for an assist setup. It will be extremely sluggish with that ram. As far as the cooler, that style works nice and is easy to mount along a frame rail.
"between projects"

SloCrawler

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #434 on: Jan 12, 2011, 11:25:44 AM »
cant I change my pully to make it not slugish, im guessing your saying that because of the higher volume of fluid

freds40 [OP]

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #435 on: Jan 12, 2011, 02:18:47 PM »
Drilling the restrictor will add volume but really only enough to make a 1.5" ram work well. The drilled restrictor should put out about 2-2.5GPM which is great for a 1.5" ram. The 2" ram works best with roughly 4-4.5GPM.
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Sparkplug

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #436 on: Jan 12, 2011, 02:22:44 PM »
Ill be installing my assist soon, and wanted to see pics of what you guys use for a res, your cooler, and how you mount the ram on the dif. Just wanted different ideas,
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swapped89

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #437 on: Jan 12, 2011, 02:26:15 PM »
there is a bunch in this thread all ready post # 350-370-301 yadayada etc. etc.
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http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=61345.0 

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Sparkplug

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #438 on: Jan 12, 2011, 02:28:53 PM »
yeh lazy, was hopin to be sppon fed, but ill read thread

Gonna weld 2 res together, gonna mount both bolts for ram straight up, drill pump, dunno about a cooler yet, ill fig it out. Ill be psoting here with issues or install and how it goes.
« Last Edit: Jan 12, 2011, 02:35:49 PM by Sparkplug »
2008 TRD 4x4 Double Cab Tacoma
1994 12 valve 5 speed 4x4 single cab dodge 2500
1986 22re 5speed 3link 4runner (the beater)
1982 3rz swapped pickup (in progress)

SloCrawler

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #439 on: Jan 12, 2011, 03:12:42 PM »
Drilling the restrictor will add volume but really only enough to make a 1.5" ram work well. The drilled restrictor should put out about 2-2.5GPM which is great for a 1.5" ram. The 2" ram works best with roughly 4-4.5GPM.

In that's case I might have a 2" RAM for sale, I know its overkill but I got an awesome deal. Its now in trade or barter
 
« Last Edit: Jan 13, 2011, 09:33:09 AM by Chrstphrtptts »

sunk99

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #440 on: Feb 10, 2011, 02:57:13 PM »
Thanks  for the write up, lots of info. One question I have is how do I know where to weld the mounting tabs on the tierod so the cylinder travels equally in both directions?

superyota

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #441 on: Feb 10, 2011, 03:04:40 PM »
the way I have done it on 4 different rigs and worked perfect each time is I start by cranking the wheel one direction as far as it will go, til it hits the bump stops.  I do this with the engine off so the ram doesn't travel.  once the steering is maxed to one side, I fire the engine up, hold the wheel to that side til the ram pushes out/in all the way to that one side.  now your ram and you steering are working together.  this is where I weld the tab on the tierod.  
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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #442 on: Feb 11, 2011, 07:37:22 AM »
Thanks  for the write up, lots of info. One question I have is how do I know where to weld the mounting tabs on the tierod so the cylinder travels equally in both directions?

Turn the steering whee so the tires point straight forward.  Take your ram and pull it out so that half of the ram's travel is showing.  Most use a 6" ram so make sure 3" of chrome rod is showing.  Make sure your passenger side mount is as far over to the passenger side as possible.  I made that mistake once and ended up bending the frame, bump stop brackets, bending a tie rod, and busting the chrome rod out of the ram.  Once I got everything fixed, I mounted it closer to the passenger side U bolt plate





84 4Runner
Swapped EFI and a rebuilt 22RE
Marlin Dual Ultimate crawler
Marlin high steer
TG springs
5.29's, Aussie locked front and rear
39.5" Iroks on 15x10 2.5" backspaced wheels
109" wheelbase
Addicted Off Road 8 point cage
Addicted Off Road front bumper

Addicted Off Road

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sacsogv

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #443 on: Mar 12, 2011, 11:03:13 AM »
This looks like a great system!!!! Cant wait to get started on mine :biggthumpup:

toyota castine

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #444 on: Mar 20, 2011, 09:56:48 PM »
Can't wait to get assist on mine I knew its always been easy it just got me pumped to get it done

953rz4runner

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #445 on: Mar 30, 2011, 12:00:21 PM »
Hey i was wondering if you had to do the powersteering pump mod if you have a pump of a 3rz?

chromewontgetyouhome

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #446 on: Apr 14, 2011, 12:14:22 AM »
Been researching this for a few days.  $130 for the home brewed is a heck of a lot better then $200 (PSC ram+hardware) or $1000+ for a complete assist system.  Is there a stock pump from another application that can be used for more fluid flow?  I'm going to mod my pump but if it starts to whine I'd like a cost effective solution.

Here's the 3/8 plugs, in case you have to block it off.  It would probably be wise to buy one extra hose and fittings to have spares (surplus center prices won't kill the wallet)

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-5406-HP-6&catname=hydraulic

85yotapolo

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #447 on: Apr 14, 2011, 12:33:28 PM »
Ok did hydro but only thing is when Turing left the ram is hitting leaf plate and turned it up and tighten down jAm nuts and it held for a while but when turning it loosened up and goes down and hit plate any ideas??? Fix??   

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #448 on: Apr 14, 2011, 01:25:27 PM »
weld some big tacks onto the jam nuts to hold them in place
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sparkys83yota

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Re: Hydro assist on the cheap
« Reply #449 on: May 06, 2011, 02:44:48 PM »
ok. so i got my ram and mounts installed. my question is that lock to lock the ram only gets 5 1/2 ". with my wheels turned full driver it comes out 5 3/4 and turned all the way passenger in is 1/4-1/3 ' shy of going all the way in. Is this OK. Also I don't know it this matters but when turning full passenger I am about 1/4" short of hitting the steering stops.
« Last Edit: May 06, 2011, 02:54:06 PM by sparkys83yota »
83 shorbed pickup. 22 re swap. Dual ultimates, l52hd tranny, 5 " marlin trailflex lift. Yukon 529. Grizzly in rear zip locker front. And a bunch of other stuff....

 
 
 
 
 

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