Topic: Doing A Bodylift

[Rocksurfer]

The 2 Inch Bodylift

I know there are people that don't like them and then there are people that don't mind them. This article is directed to those that are interested and don't know if they should go this route. I personally like them, a body lift is a cheap method of one lifting your rig and 2 creates room for larger tires when you are on a budget. Even if you go with a spring lift a 2 inch body lift will keep those big tires away from your fenders. I think the biggest thing to think about is this without the body lift your tires could hit or rub, this creates a great stress and bind on your driveline. I think for those already on a budget driveline failure is a big issue and relieving anything that may cause this to occur is a friend.

So since there have been a few people asking about a body lift and have been potentially scared by others about them I have decided to write an article about them and the budget advantages to them. I have done build ups with them and without them depending on the rig and the what the rig was. For the most part if it is IFS I've put a body lift on it and if it were a straight axle I have not except for one rig that I wanted bigger tires than the wheel well would accommodate and that's what it boils down to, if it's gonna rub I'm doing a body lift to clear it. Sure I could tub the wheel wells but some people don't or can't do this themselves  or don't have access to the equipment required to do this.

Anyways enough of my rant on doing a body lift and on with the build……..

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

Type Of Bodylifts:

Homemade
You can make one yourself if you have the tools out of  common items like polyethylene and similar products and even hock pucks have been used.  Doing it this way does require thinking out the entire process and getting the required hardware yourself.



Ready To Install

These are pre-made ready to install kits, they come with almost everything needed from start to finish. I say almost because you will have certain things that will come up with almost every kit that is something that is not included. These kits do come with the common issues that come with lifting your truck but not all of the issues that occur. Even in these kits there are things that won’t be used but they are there in case.



I have always gone with the Ready to Install kits, they are inexpensive and save time on research. I have seen the hockey puck lift and they do work, some say the fall apart but I think that has more to do with the area in which you live more than them not being strong enough. I think if they are in a cold climate they get hard and may fall apart when frozen. I’ve only experienced them in the warmer areas. Still even this 1 inch lift requires you doing all the leg work to get all the parts to get it done right.

1 inch

A 1 inch is about the easiest to get done, in fact you can get away without moving the radiator in most cases by trimming the fan shroud  and since it is only an inch minimal adjustment on of certain parts that are on the body and frame are required.

2 inch

This would be my favorite lift it is the best one since it creates some excellent clearance and doesn’t require too much adjustment between the parts and pieces that connect between the body and frame.

3 inch

I don’t like this lift at all, it is too much and body shift usually occurs. It will require extensive modifications including extending the tcase and transmission shifters and enlarging the holes for them in the floor pan.


So for these reasons and the fact that I like the 2 inch this is the lift I will go over in this thread. This is an informational thread for those interested in doing  this lift so no bashing, keep it informative and educational so that those interested can make an educated detremination on weather or not to do this lift, thanks.

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

Installing A 2 Inch Bodylift

Lifting The Cab

Step 1
If this is your 1st time at attempting installing a body lift or just want to refresh your memory read the entire installation instructions,  this will give you an insight to what may be required and you’ll be prepared for any issues that may arise during the installation process. This will also help keep an eye on critical areas of concern.

Step 2
Disconnect both battery cables, there are 2 reasons for this. The first is safety, we don’t want to short anything out that may create more issues for you. Plus when installing the lift those wires may end up being a little short and again cause a short.

Step 3
Remove the shifter boot, doorsill plates and kick panels. Lift the carpet and remove all the cab mount covers.  Loosen but do not remove all the cab bolts just enough  for some slack.

Step 4
(NOTE: This is where I deviate from the manual, and it is your choice to follow their method or mine. Mine is not the correct way to do this but I’ve never had an issue)I do not remove the steering shaft I only loosen the top and bottom bolts so they can slide out as you do the lift.

Step 5 Loosen the clamp just behind the grill for the power steering that holds the lines, push the line towards the firewall.

Step 6
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the radiator to the firewall, it is not necessary to remove the radiator just set it against the fan.

Step 7
Remove the bumper and lower valance, if you don’t have the lower valance or the plastic side trim on the bumper you can just leave the bumper on.

Step 8
Take a good look around the vehicle between the frame and body, if anything looks like it may bind when lifting loosen it from either the body or frame to keep it from pulling tight.

Step 9
Release the clutch line from the clip on the lower portion of the firewall

Step 10
Release the brake lines from the clips at the calipers allowing the rubber section to pull through.

[note: There are 2 critical areas to watch very carefully, the clutch line and the brake line on the drivers side. These 2 locations will tighten up and the brake line will kink if you don’t keep an eye on it.]

Step 11
Remove the cab mounting bolts from the passenger side of the cab, including the one under the core support. Double check for any wires, hoses, cables or anything that may not have enough slack and will be too short. Using a floor jack and a wooden block slowly lift the side of the cab just enough to slide the spacers in, be sure to constantly check for any wires, cables , hoses for binding. Once in place also install all the bolts, washers and nuts and snug up the bolts but do not tighten them.

[note: Knock the factory top washers off the old bolts you will reuse them, they are a critical component when installing the new bolts. Just take a large deep socket and hammer them off and install them on the new bolts.]

Step 12
Repeat step 11  for the drivers side of the cab, double checking to make sure no wires, hoses, cables are binding. Now tighten all the bolts on both the drivers and passenger sides.

Step 13
Check the lines that were moved or loosened and re-secure them, you can twist the brake lines you will notice that there is a loop in them twisting (do not pull) will give you enough slack to reinstall the clips. On the clutch line you will need to bend the bracket that is attached to the transmission bell housing enough to give it slack, you do not want it to be tight.

Step 14
Install the new radiator brackets in the original location and attach your radiator to them.

Step 15
Tighten the  bottom and top bolts on the steering shaft making sure that it didn’t slide out too far, if it did you can slide it up or down to center it in the cups. If it seems that they will not be secure you will need to refer to the installation instructions by the lift manufacturer and follow those instructions.

Step 16
Reinstall the front bumper and valance with the new front bumper mounts in the kit. If you didn’t remove the bumper since you didn’t have the valance or the rubber bumper ends you can leave it just like it is or you can  move the bumper up if you like.

Step 17
Make sure all body bolts are tight and that there is no last minute adjustments on any points that need to be done.  Replace the body bolt covers, carpet, kick panels, doorsills and the center console boot and bracket.

Step 18
Check for gear shifter clearances, make you can cycle though all the gears in 2wd and 4wd hi and low ranges. There is usually no problems with a 2” lift, but with a 3” the shifters usually hit the edges of the floor pan and have to be cut. In some cases the transmission shifter boot will bump the t-case shifter when in low 4wd and bump it out of low. To fix this just push the transmission shifter boot past the large section of the shifter and leave it there. This will keep it from bumping the t-case boot.

If everything went well you now have created 2 inches of lift for the cab of your rig but were not quite done yet unless you were lifting a 4Runner, so on to lifting the bed.

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

Lifting The Bed

Step 1
Loosen but do not remove all six (shortbed) /eight (longbed).

Step 2
Remove the rear bumper

Step 3
Remove all the bed mounting bolts from the passenger side of the bed only. Using a hydraulic jack and a wooden block slowly lift the bed just high enough to slide the lift blocks in on the bed mounts.  Now from the bottom install the new bolts, washers and install the nut from the top. The reason for this is you will not be able to install the bolts from the top since they are now too long. Don’t tighten them at this point.

Step 4
Repeat step 3 on the drivers side of the bed.

[Note: I don’t install the bed support blocks and it is up to you weather you want them on or not]

[Note: I don’t remove the vent hose or fuel filler hose but I watch them very carefully while lifting the bed. If it looks like either one is getting too tight  loosen them, if everything looks ok leave them alone.]

Step 5
Reinstall rear bumper in its original location, it will not be lifted.

Step 6
Double-check both the cab and bed bolts for tightness, if any are loose retighten them. Also take another look at all lines, wires, and cables to make sure they are not binding. Check to make sure the engine ground strap from the firewall is not too tight.

Step 7
Reinstall both battery cables, it may be necessary  to replace them if they are too short. You may also have to extend the smaller wires going to the battery posts.

Step 8
Double-check and make sure you can shift through all the gears including 4wd low and high. You should also take a test drive making sure you can shift through all the gears and also in 4wd low and high. You need to make sure you are getting full engagement of the gears. Adjust the boot or cut the floorboard as needed. I have never had an issue with a 2” lift but the 3” does hit the floor pan most of the time and will require some cutting.

That pretty much sums it up, about the only things I didn’t cover was a step by step lift for the 4Runner but if you read the instructions you will see where it is different from the trucks. The one other issue I can think of is if you have an auto trans, with the 2” I didn’t have to cut the linkages on the shifters since there is an adjustment on the rods. If you do a 3” you will have to cut the linkages and lengthen them.

[KDXSR5]

Interesting theory why the hockey pucks fail.

Good stuff here! Iit was a good write up. Is that driver side brake line something to be worried about with a solid axle truck, or just an ifs truck? Any other differences to look out for between ifs and SA body lifts? So, when you get done with the bed part, are the bolt threads sticking up into the bed? I was kind of confused there when you said you put them up from the bottom. Why can you not put them in from the top? Thank you for the information!

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

Interesting theory why the hockey pucks fail.

Good stuff here! Iit was a good write up. Is that driver side brake line something to be worried about with a solid axle truck, or just an ifs truck? Any other differences to look out for between ifs and SA body lifts? So, when you get done with the bed part, are the bolt threads sticking up into the bed? I was kind of confused there when you said you put them up from the bottom. Why can you not put them in from the top? Thank you for the information!

I figured you'd like this thread with all the banter going on about bodylifts.

Pretty much the same from a SA or IFS, as you lift just keep an eye on things give the jack a couple pumps at a time and then take a look, repeat this until you can fit the lift block in. If anything get tight find a way to free it up. Make sure to watch the parking brake cables too and make sure they don't get too tight, the o2 sensor and any electricals going into the trans.

No they will be in the slots under the bed, if you haven't noticed there are no exposed bolts in the bed they tie in underneath. If you take a look at where they bolt up you'll understand it perfectly.

[KDXSR5]

Pretty much the same from a SA or IFS, as you lift just keep an eye on things give the jack a couple pumps at a time and then take a look, repeat this until you can fit the lift block in. If anything get tight find a way to free it up. Make sure to watch the parking brake cables too and make sure they don't get too tight, the o2 sensor and any electricals going into the trans.

No they will be in the slots under the bed, if you haven't noticed there are no exposed bolts in the bed they tie in underneath. If you take a look at where they bolt up you'll understand it perfectly.

Ok. Guess I have never really payed that much attention to my bed. I will have to check it out. So there must be some like c-channel that the bolts go into, and you cannot put the bolt in thru the top of it, or something like that. Correct?

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

That pretty much sums it up.

Also something I didn't mention was the time frame, I did this after I got off work one day. I figure it took me doing this alone about 3-4 hrs.

[93tonkatoy]

On a toyota bed, the mounting bolts do not go through the floor of the bed, only the channel that is welded to the bottom of the floor. there is JUST enough room to drop the stock bolts down through the holes. A 3" or longer bolt will never go in.

As an added suggestion, I would reccommend using Nylock nuts on ALL of the bolts that are installed with the head down. If the nut loosens for any reason, the bolt can drop straight out. If the nylock nuts loosen (from vibration, flex...) it will not vibrate off of the bolt, so it will remain connected.

Very good write-up RS.

P.S. If the e-brake cable gets tight, there are several clips where the cable goes over the transmission. open the one at the top of the tranny tunnel and pull the slack from there. (the tranny is no longer in the way)

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

The kit comes with all nylock nuts and some thread lock. I didn't use the thread lock since you never know if you'll need to take a bolt out for some reason. I will recheck all the bolts every 1000 miles or so for about 5000.

[93tonkatoy]

I have not purchased a RTI BL, and the one that was installed on mine when I purchased it had some of the bolts replaced.

I Totally agree on the re-checking. The bolts will get loose while everything "settles in", but should be solid after 5k.

[91 super yoda]

I like the write-up its very informative. Like some I am pro body lift if your on a budget like myself. I wheeled a 2" body a set of 33's and a rear locker on IFS for about 3 years. a grand total from stock is $100 for BL, $150 tires, and $250 = $500 and I could follow almost anybody I was behind and in some cases lead the pack. BIG FAN OF THE BUDGET WHEELER.

[KDXSR5]

This is good info from 4crawler.com (spacing is kind of rough, sorry, I spent about two hours making it space out better and be color coded)

If using aftermarket poly body mount bushings:

Color Code:
Part supplied in body lift kit
Part supplied in poly bushing kit
Original or existing part

          XX              New longer bolt
         ----             Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~   .Floor of the cab or bed
       +----+
       |   .   |            Body Lift Block
       |  .    |     
       +----+   
      --------           New washer (if supplied w/ poly bushing kit)
     +-------+
     |     .     |          Large poly bushing (Body or cab only)
     +-------+
   ==========       Bracket off of the frame  
       +----+   
       |  .    |            Small poly bushing (Body or cab only)
        \-.--/   
        -----        .     Factory Washer
    .     XX        .       New lock nut


If re-using the stock body mount bushings, the picture is a little different:

Part supplied in body lift kit
Original or existing part
 
          XX              New longer bolt
         ----             Factory Washer, either tabbed or round
~===========~ .  Floor of the cab or bed
       +----+
       |   .   |            Body Lift Block
       |  .    |     
       +----+   
      --------           Factory top washer (bonded to body mount bushing, not separate)color]
     +-------+
     |     .     |          Large factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
     +-------+
   ==========       Bracket off of the frame  
       +----+   
       |  .    |            Small factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)
        \-.--/   
        -----             Factory Washer
    .     XX               New lock nut

[KDXSR5]

Again from 4crawler.com: this is a comparison between the "mass produced" incorrectly sized block on factory bushing (first pic) and 4crawler's Ultimate Block on aftermarket poly bushing (second pic).

[94MtnYote]

 Nice thread very informative, I will definitely refer to this again before doing my 1'' BL. thanks

[Rocksurfer [OP]]

Again from 4crawler.com: this is a comparison between the "mass produced" incorrectly sized block on factory bushing (first pic) and 4crawler's Ultimate Block on aftermarket poly bushing (second pic).

Nice, that's what can and does happen if you jump your truck with a bodylift.

[unclejpl4x4]

Wow nice brake down of a body lift.

[pyrosnow911]

ha soft skate board wheels are where its at