Topic: 22re add Turbo

[Jimmyg]

OK so I just got my Turbo off the Greyhound, It is the Stock Toyota Turbo setup off an 86 22re, a bolt on. I'm puzled though. I have the turbo, it has a coolant Line in and Line out. A banjo to bolt into block for oil preasured lubrication and an oil return. It also has a large tube going into the turbine but the exiting air connection is only 1 and 5/8ths or so. How does the throttle body plumb into this set up?

[fourwd1]

As you've already figured out, it's not a "bolt-on". The RE block is not drilled for the oil passages. Also, unless you plan on using a low boost pressure, you'll need to change pistons. The RE engine has much higher compression and weaker pistons than the RTE engine. The RTE injectors also have a higher capacity than the RE's.

A good source for info and help is the Yahoo group:   22RTE-Trucks

[Jimmyg [OP]]

Why thank you, I read that the bung is there on all 22r/22re blocks but it must be drilled and I'm missing the intake cross over and the downpipe to the exhaust. It has been my plan to add the Turbo to Red from the beginning. I has the SDS onboard computor system and am running low compression forged pistons already. I need to find some picks so off I go to find this Yahoo site. Thanks again

[BigMike]

The RE engine has much higher compression and weaker pistons than the RTE engine.

I guess it's subject to argument, but the strength of the two pistons are identical within fractions of a percent.

The RTE injectors also have a higher capacity than the RE's

22RE Injectors are orange and flow 200 ccm, and the 22RTE Injectors are yellowish-orange and flow 250 ccm.

I read that the bung is there on all 22r/22re blocks but it must be drilled

This is true however I do not know much about it...

How does the throttle body plumb into this set up?

My first pic is a custom intercooler job I did on my buddies 86 Turbo. The blue arrow is the outside air being sucked into the turbo, and the red arrow is the boost/pressure being forced into the throttle body.

My second pic shows a turbo and its appropriate inputs/outputs. Looking at the pic the exhaust/out yellow arrows seem a bit confusing.. The yellow exhaust arrow is the exhaust gasses being pushed out of the engine, and the yellow out arrow is the exhaust gasses being blown out of the turbo itself and then down into the exhaust system.

I has the SDS onboard computor system and am running low compression forged pistons already.

Are we talking 8.5:1 or so?? Stock rods?
I am curious if you have any more info on the SDS computer system. If you are trying to run a biggy-back system over the top of a 22RE EFI system then I doubt you will achieve the results you are after. Especially you need larger injectors, Colder spark plugs, and a ECU with a different AC voltage range for the knock sensor maybe... (hence just using an entire 22RTE EFI system)

Let us know how your project goes from here!!

Regards,
BigMike

[Jimmyg [OP]]

 :thumbs:More questions I have found info that the Isuzu NPR (What ever that stands for) Intercooler is a perfect bolt in for my project  Thanks re piston strength 8) I am running 24lb injectors supposed to be good up to 250 horses, a bosch inline pump to match flow requirement. Will I need to build a surge tank The SDS system is a stand alone, adjustable on the fly, crank fired engine management system. It has adjustments and controls for adding fans setting temps for them to activate and shut down plus able to set things to shut down or fire up only on full throttle for example. It was purchased with the intent of adding Turbo down the road.

[BigMike]

Isn't it just eaiser to use a 22R-TE EFI system? Granted its not as cool, but after you get it running using stock electronics then play with after market standalones and piggys


2cents,
BigMike

[Jimmyg [OP]]

Probably but what's the fun in that? The stock system doesn't allow you to adjust fuel, injector duration, increase air flow, or increase boost much over 6 psi from what I've read. I elimanated the distributor and all its water intake problems, Ah I like the SDS System its easy to adjust for any engine config.

[BigMike]

How does the SDS compare to the MoTeC M4? Do you have a webpage address for SDS?



Thanks,
BigMike

[88runner]

must be that site.
http://www.sdsefi.com/

[Jimmyg [OP]]

Sorry I didn't get back with the URL Big Mike, but yep the one above is it. I think yul like it 8)http://www.sdsefi.com/adv.htm

[Stinky]

well...u guys seems to kno a tid bit more than me on turbos n 22re's....i got a garrett 27mm off a caterpiller skid steer, 4cyl diesel...im leavin the motor stock(im on a college budget...which is next to nothing) i lan on running 4lbs, 5 max...can i get enough fuel by turning up my mass air sensor a few clicks?? or do i need bigger injectors.....im mounting it in the bed, cuz i dont want a ton of stuff under the hood...ill run oil n the inlet pipe up to the motor....whewww...anything i missed??  thanks

[Skinny_Pedal]

if your pulling turbos of vehicle and wanted to go custom. i would say pull a holeset turbo off an early cummins b series motor. easy adjustable from 5-15psi of boost and dirt cheap. also remeber guys no warm shutoffs, let your tur bos idle down

[kneedownnate]

also remeber guys no warm shutoffs, let your tur bos idle down

Yea, how many people keep do you think keep blowin through turbos cause they don't do this, then they stomp their feet when they hafta buy another!  I tried explaining this to a friend who had a turbo 300zx then a turbo diesel ford, she called me a liar then looked at her owner's manual.  I never got my apology...

[shad]

That's what turbo timers are for.
My buddy who owned a 05 Subaru STI with upgraded turbo had one his car would run for like 10-15 mins during the summer to cool down.

[kneedownnate]

How many people do you think A: have the patience to wait that 10-15 minutes, and B: make sure that they have that much time to show up to work/school to let it cool down?  On the ford HD my friend had it said you only needed to let it cool down after towing or pulling steep grades, basically any time it had been put under heavy load.

[Skinny_Pedal]

5 minutes is all it takes, is it that long to prolong the longetivity of your vehicle?

[Sundowner]

ok, here's some thoughts on converting a 22re to a 22rte:

1) the long block
you've already figured out that the 22re runs too much compression to for a simple turbo set-up. well, the 22rte doesn't have enough compression for a simple turbo set-up. it's so low that the take-off from a dead stop sucked to the point that toyota put a lower first gear in the turbo trannies to make up for it. Were I to do it again, I'd have put a stock 22re head on my rte. or conversely, put an rte head on a stock 22re shrot block with stock pistions. don't owrry about the pistoms or the rods, they're fine. rte's use the same rods as re's and the pistons are different but both are simple castings. no forgings here. fancy rods are ricer fantasy. up to about 15 psi, the design control for a piston rod is and always will be the the down stoke on the uncompressed cycle. the force from the angualr accelration of the free spinning rod far out classes the power stroke.

2) the turbo
sizing is everything. you want a big T-3 or a moderate t3/t4 hybrid. the hoset is HUGE. you'll get nothing bot hot air out of it from a little 2.4L motor. conversely the stock CT20 is so small that pretty much the same effect takes placce.

3) the injection
use stock 22rte injection. I do, it's fine. SDS is cool, but to upgrade the basic kit to something that can really monitor and control a turbo system ,you're looking at $3k with all the trimmings. Iv'e got a big 60 trim T3 and I'm running 10 psi quite happily with the stock injection humming along.

4) the plumbing
lookaround ,you can cobble an oil feed from the oil pressure gauge fitting on the driver side of hte block,  this it common. the oil will dump into a fitting you've put on the oil pan. for water, there's factory feed and return on the back of the timing cover on each side of the block, figure the rest out.

5) turbo timers
you NEED A turbo timer if you run a turbo that just had ports for oil cooling. most aftermarket kits come with this type of turbo becuase they are cheaper to source and easier to install. you DO NOT NEED a turbo timer if you have a water cooled turbo. it's just a ricer fantasy that you would. there isnt' an OEM water cooled turb out there that has a turbo timer. if you're that worried, run synthetic oil, you should be running it anyway.

here's some pics of my turbocharged intercooled 84 runner

careful, these pics are huge
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/hood1.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/hood2.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/hood3.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool1.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool2.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool3.JPG

[robrub00]

sunn downer   I like the top mount!  what is it off of or is it a garrett or something?

I like how you did your  collant return to the radiator from the turbo. I bought a v6 radiator and had them weld on a bung like the stock turbo radiator.  I parted out a whole 22rte and am swaping it in my 85 4runner.  I am thinking about getting a ct-26.  I just had the engine rebuilt.  With stock turbo pistons bored +.5 and bugger stanless valves, coated bearings thick metal head gasket.  heavy dity timing chane, preasure honed light portwork and all balanced, lso getting a dual friction clutch, want to get 440cc injectors with a supra afm, and am looking into a throttle body conversion.  you truck looks sick that is what I am trying to do.  you have a write up on here or pirate or anything?

Jimmy g
  the ct 26 from the supras are nice in the seance you can drill out some holes and they fit on the 22rte manifold,   however you just bought the ct20 do you have the manifold or are you making one?  is the ct-20 rebuilt or what.  they are notorious for going bad.   a bigger exhaust might help.  you need to keep them cool.  also cheack the turbine housing that is where they usually crack.  a new better made turbine housing made of a more durable casting is like 250 and an aftermarket part good luck.

[Sundowner]

the coolant return is a hack job by me. I used a T fitting from a lower rad hose and plumbed it in. the radiator is from a V6 truck, so it was either that or plumb in off of the timing cover housing, like I said before.

your engine set-up sounds a lot like mine. make sure you use the ARP head studs and not the factory head bolts. they're not cheap at about $120/set but they're worth it.
don't bother with the 44cc injectors unless you're running something really sick. the big T3 in mine pushes 10psi through the intercooler and I'm running the stock 295cc injecotrs. the air/fuel meter in the cab say's i'm not leaning out at all.

no write up, but I should put something togehter with all my research notes.

one thing I will add is that the biggest mistake toyota made with the 22rte is the exhaust system.
it NEEDS a flex pipe in it, and toyota made it solid tbing the whole way back.
it's the #1 reasn (maybe the only reason) why CT-20's crack exhaust housings and 22rte's blow exhaust manifold gaskets all over the place.

sunn downer   I like the top mount!  what is it off of or is it a garrett or something?

I like how you did your  collant return to the radiator from the turbo. I bought a v6 radiator and had them weld on a bung like the stock turbo radiator.  I parted out a whole 22rte and am swaping it in my 85 4runner.  I am thinking about getting a ct-26.  I just had the engine rebuilt.  With stock turbo pistons bored +.5 and bugger stanless valves, coated bearings thick metal head gasket.  heavy dity timing chane, preasure honed light portwork and all balanced, lso getting a dual friction clutch, want to get 440cc injectors with a supra afm, and am looking into a throttle body conversion.  you truck looks sick that is what I am trying to do.  you have a write up on here or pirate or anything?

Jimmy g
  the ct 26 from the supras are nice in the seance you can drill out some holes and they fit on the 22rte manifold,   however you just bought the ct20 do you have the manifold or are you making one?  is the ct-20 rebuilt or what.  they are notorious for going bad.   a bigger exhaust might help.  you need to keep them cool.  also cheack the turbine housing that is where they usually crack.  a new better made turbine housing made of a more durable casting is like 250 and an aftermarket part good luck.

[94SRUNNER]

I am not that familiar with turbos, so this will probably sound like a dumb question. What is the importance of a flex pipe in the exhaust system?

[robrub00]

Maybe to prevent jaring of the turbo. and allow expation with heat. I have heard that the cat was designed to close to the turbo contributing to heat, also somehad a braket to hep,l hod the turbo up that connected to the block that help transfer heat, and the turbinehousing was cast with too small of amount of a certain chemical making it more prone to cracking.

[shad]

I am not that familiar with turbos, so this will probably sound like a dumb question. What is the importance of a flex pipe in the exhaust system?

To allow flex of the exhaust system when the engine is torqued.  The engine will twist side to side and the transmission and engine can move up and down at times. It basically prevents the exhaust pipe and or flanges from developing cracks or breaking.