Author Topic: few questions before first startup after rebuild  (Read 1967 times)

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toeyota

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few questions before first startup after rebuild
« on: Oct 20, 2007, 04:26:26 PM »
First thing, whats the best way to get a quick start up so i can break in  the new cam the right way ?

I did the 20/22r hybrid swap and i am wondering how to plumb some parts on the intake. I took heater hose and ran it from the water tube comming from of the back of the timing cover to the water tube on top of the 20r intake sorta behind the carb. Should that work ok? i think everything else was about the same. The thermostat neck was a little tricky to get the radiator hose on, but it worked out.
 
Also, whats the best oil to use to break in with? Its still pretty warm around here, about 90 is the high.
 
If there are any other tricks or tips that would be great, thanks.
 

79coyotefrg

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10-40

i think thats right for the hoses,
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

LOL @ IFS

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I'd use the weight recommended by Toyota, but I would NOT use synthetic.  It's too slippery and won't let the rings seat themselves.

The cam is the least of your worries... Read here for more... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I've done this on six engines and have had great luck.  On another three I broke in gently and they smoked and burned oil like hell.

toeyota [OP]

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Thanks for the link ifs. I will follow that all except not cranking it in the shop. I dont see how you can crank one up the first time and just take off. What if its leaking oil or water some where? Plus you gotta set the timing and tune the carb

LOL @ IFS

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Leaking oil or water will show itself in a couple minutes.  As for the timing and carb, in this case, "good enough" will get you by.  Eyeball the timing and carb settings, drive it out of the shop, down the road normally, and when it warms up, give 'er hell.  Once you've seated the rings, you can bring it back to the shop and make your adjustments.  :)

lal357

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what if the engine is not stock i'm about to put the new engine in my 80 yota hers the specs
block 83 not bored any
head 83 oversized ss valves, decked 30 thousandth (sp), crane 272 cam ,ported
headdman header
weber 32/36 carb
i'm taking out the 4.88 chunk in threar and putting in either a 4.30 or 4.10 chunk since i'm running a spool in the 4.88
5spd tranny
i was always under the 500 easy miles rule and was just gonna drive down to mobile 226 miles and back on the interstate keeping it under 3k rpm (figured do it in 1 day )
80yota 22r 32/36 weber,header,custom bed,4.88 spooled rear Aussie front ,63" chevies,cage,yada,yada

LOL @ IFS

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Give it hell within the first 20 minutes or so.  Read everything that Motoman has to say and follow it.  It's about bikes, but as he says, it also pertains to cars.

79coyotefrg

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use  WOT  every chance you get the first 30 miles or so,   but dont over rev,   you want  the  piston rings  to  break in  not   get hot,

like  second gear   just off idle,  floor it,  as it gets close to 3000   let off  and shift to 3rd  stand on it,  close to 3000  shift
best is  to slow  down  in 3rd or 4th  till you rpm is around 1200  then floor it  and let it slowly gain speed  till you get to that 3000 mark  then let off
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

te51levin

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^ Glen's method is close to mine.  I don't generally worry about cam break-in as long as it has been coated in cam lube, unless it's a US-made cam.  Seems the Toyota ones are made of better iron that doesn't shed its skin the first time it's used...or so I've heard. 

First point, fill the cooling system with plain water, no antifreeze.  That way if you have a leak, it makes a much smaller mess that's much easier to clean up and it doesn't spray delicious pet poison all over the place.

Make certain that your cam timing is correct, your valves are adjusted correctly, and that all vacuum lines are routed properly so that when it fires, it runs well as soon as possible.  You can get the ignition timing very close without starting the engine.  I prefer to crank the engine over with the coil wire removed to build oil pressure; if you have an oil pressure gauge, now is a good opportunity to make sure you have good oil pressure.

Once it fires, I like to blip the throttle right away and keep blipping it continually as it warms up.  The point is to keep the rings under some load while keeping RPM reasonably low to avoid beating cold pistons around in the bore or grinding new bearings into pulp before things have expanded as they do at operating temp.  I usually rev it to 2000 RPM or so, over and over until the thermostat opens.  Then I let it idle down and double-check ignition timing.  While the timing light is hooked up I also confirm that mechanical and vacuum advance (if equipped) are working correctly.  Shut it down, check for leaks, check oil and coolant levels, check belt tension, make sure the oil filter is still tight.

Now it's test drive time.  Grab the cellphone, toolbox, 4-way, flashlight, jumper cables, and AAA card.  Just like Glen suggested, keep the RPM low enough not to shred the bearings.  I think half of redline is a sensible rev limit for the first drive, so 3000 or so makes sense for an R-series engine.  Just like the initial fire-up, I don't like to let it idle for too long.  A nice half-hour drive around town (lots of stop signs or lights, lots of reasons to slow down and accelerate again) works really well to vary the engine speed and keep the engine working without revving it out.  Keep the throttle open as much as you can to keep those rings expanded against the cylinders.  This will also be an opportunity to learn about any carburetor tuning you need to do if it's not running 100% right.  If you've done a lot of carb tuning and jetting you can often determine what it needs just by driving it around a while and narrowing down when it does what.

After you're confident that the engine is running well and not giving any indications of trouble, add some antifreeze and use it for your daily grind, but keep the RPM reasonable - maybe up the limit to 4000 after the first 250 miles.  After a couple of hundred miles I drove mine from Redding (CA) to Eureka and back for a nice break-in run.  Then at 500 miles, it's nice to change the oil and filter and once again, check the timing and valve clearance.  After the first 500 miles, if everything sounds good and looks good, it's game on - as long as it's built right, kept full of oil and coolant, and fully warmed up, give 'er hell!


Plekto

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The proper way to deal with breaking in an engine is to well, drive it.  :)  You can't do this in a garage for two reasons:

1:Cooling.  Unless you have a silly huge fan, the thing will overheat.

2:Most of the seating takes place/happens when the engine is under compression while slowing down.  Revving it in neutral doesn't get the job done.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
MotoMan's method is the proper way, IMO.  You want to progressively wind it up it and let it wind down halfway, then wind it up a little higher, and so on until you're at about 2/3-3/4 of red-line, which is enough(3500-4000 for a R22E, for instance - no need to punish it).  20-30 minutes.  Then change that oil immediately. 


LOL @ IFS

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Plekto

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Hey! I know that.   But it's really good advice.

Fine...

^^^^ X2
  :greengrin:

LOL @ IFS

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hahah... I know, just busting your chops.  :P  When I first read it, I didn't believe it, but tried it anyway, and wow, it worked.  Imagine that... info on the internet being correct.  :)

lal357

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hope its correct gonna try it either this weekend or the next
80yota 22r 32/36 weber,header,custom bed,4.88 spooled rear Aussie front ,63" chevies,cage,yada,yada

 
 
 
 
 

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