Author Topic: cteng's 460 question thread...Small Successes (Read 27528 times)

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #30 on:** Jul 29, 2007, 12:12:01 PM »

Tried every combination of hammer/prybar/flathead I could manage...won;t budge.

85xcab · « **Reply #31 on:** Jul 29, 2007, 07:48:55 PM »

You mentioned a replacing the intake. No time like the present, pull the intake and dist as an assembly.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #32 on:** Jul 29, 2007, 07:55:06 PM »

You may be right...that might just be the way to go. Hmmmmmmm

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #33 on:** Jul 30, 2007, 07:47:02 AM »

Just looked it up, distributer doesn't go through intake manifold. Goes directly into the block.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #34 on:** Jul 30, 2007, 08:24:00 AM »

Here is a thought...is the bottom of the distributer gear accessable from below with the oil pan off? Would it be possible to drain the oil, pull the pan and hammer the distributer out from below? Or at least rap on it to loosen it enough to turn?

854RUN · « **Reply #35 on:** Aug 02, 2007, 07:01:17 AM »

i am parity share you will not be able to get to it from underneath. Try to put a chain wrench on it and turning it, might even wont to put a cheater bar on there

brainlessfool · « **Reply #36 on:** Aug 02, 2007, 06:34:47 PM »

it's varnish that's sticking it. the timming is off due to timeing chain ware.

no other way a round it, carb cleaner again and a agin.

wish I was there to give ya a hand, it can be done with out brakeing the dist. butt the frist time ya do it it's a pain and ya don't think it's going to work.

get threr or four cans.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #37 on:** Aug 02, 2007, 07:32:21 PM »

I will keep trying and I may still bring her down to the local shop, see what they can do.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #38 on:** Aug 02, 2007, 08:05:53 PM »

Quote from: CTENG in KS on Jul 30, 2007, 08:24:00 AM

Here is a thought...is the bottom of the distributer gear accessable from below with the oil pan off? Would it be possible to drain the oil, pull the pan and hammer the distributer out from below? Or at least rap on it to loosen it enough to turn?

get on that 460 forum and ask i really dont know

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #39 on:** Nov 28, 2007, 04:00:29 PM »

I found an Edelbrock manifold on EBizzle for $80 so I am ready to try to get the distributor loosened up. Gotta get the manifold off first. Since I have a new one I don't care about the condition the old one comes off in.

That said, I started the assault. First prying. Nope.
Then came out the 4 lb sledge. Then it moved!
I got the screwdriver under the lip and started breaking it free, then pounded the crow bar under it with the sledge. I have managed to get 3 of 4 corners free. The front dr side corner will not budge. I have NO idea why. I checked, and double checked against the new manifold...I have all the bolts out.

Has anyone had this happen before. I beat on that thing for an hour this afternoon and I am not making much progress.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #40 on:** Nov 28, 2007, 05:30:05 PM »

i wish i could help

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #41 on:** Nov 29, 2007, 12:41:54 PM »

Have you tried to call or talk to a Ford mechanic? They might have some insight.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #42 on:** Nov 29, 2007, 01:26:36 PM »

As my lil' friend says, "When all else fails get a bigger "F"ing hammer."

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #43 on:** Nov 30, 2007, 03:29:04 PM »

It took one herculean heave with the crow bar, but whatever was holding it finally gave.
Then I got a hernia pulling it out. That thing mus way 60 or 70#...holy CRAP! The Beast gained 2 inches of lift!

I did check and no damage was done to push rods or the block valley! WEEEEEE!

Duffil · « **Reply #44 on:** Nov 30, 2007, 06:24:55 PM »

well...didja get a pic of the block or of the manifold?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #45 on:** Nov 30, 2007, 06:28:35 PM »

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #46 on:** Nov 30, 2007, 06:53:11 PM »

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #47 on:** Nov 30, 2007, 09:04:03 PM »

tomorrow in the light I will get you all the pictures you can handle!

Duffil · « **Reply #48 on:** Nov 30, 2007, 09:08:21 PM »

brainlessfool · « **Reply #49 on:** Dec 02, 2007, 09:01:09 PM »

Quote from: CTENG in KS on Nov 30, 2007, 09:04:03 PM

tomorrow in the light I will get you all the pictures you can handle!

been two days now.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #50 on:** Dec 17, 2007, 03:36:58 PM »

OK, I ran the truck for about ten minutes tonight. Couple things.
1. I am getting some black smoke at idle...running rich I assume? I may not be able to do anything about that. I have it leaned out about as far as it can go at this point.
2. But of smoke coming back out the oil fill tube which mounts to the top of one of the valve covers like a breather. Just new gaskets, rtv, whatever settling in, or what does that usually signal?

Time to go get a timing light.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #51 on:** Dec 18, 2007, 06:50:48 PM »

Quote from: CTENG in KS on Dec 17, 2007, 03:36:58 PM

OK, I ran the truck for about ten minutes tonight. Couple things.
1. I am getting some black smoke at idle...running rich I assume? I may not be able to do anything about that. I have it leaned out about as far as it can go at this point.
2. But of smoke coming back out the oil fill tube which mounts to the top of one of the valve covers like a breather. Just new gaskets, rtv, whatever settling in, or what does that usually signal?

Time to go get a timing light.

#1 yes, rich.

#2 normal, rings.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #52 on:** Dec 18, 2007, 07:28:08 PM »

I figured the rings are prob not great, but not too bad either. It is steady smoke, but not a LOT of smoke. I'll watch it for now. Had to pull the carb back off, think it overloaded, need fuel pressure regulator to keep bowl from filling too quickly. The float doesn't do a very good job of restricting flow as the bowl fills.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #53 on:** Dec 19, 2007, 05:20:33 PM »

Crapsicle.
I bought a timing light...fat lot of good that did. I got everything tidied up and threw the light on it and it was pretty far off of the mark someone else made at 12 degrees which is what looks to be about factory correct.

So I started moving the dist over and she wasn't running so good. Sounded real crappy when I got the mark lined up, so I blipped the throttle to see what would happen and it backfired out the intake, then out the exhaust. I don't think that must be the right mark.

I also think I need new valve covers. I made the mistake of cleaning all the gunk off these and now they won't seal tight. Stupid things.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #54 on:** Dec 19, 2007, 05:41:51 PM »

dont worry about the light, just time it by ear, advance it till it tries to kick back when you start it then back it off a couple degrees and try again

btw http://www.redrivermudbog.com/images/md27.jpg

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #55 on:** Dec 19, 2007, 05:51:21 PM »

Yeah, all this cold weather and short days is making me impatient and grumpy with the Beast.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #56 on:** Dec 19, 2007, 06:44:18 PM »

Quote from: CTENG in KS on Dec 19, 2007, 05:51:21 PM

Yeah, all this cold weather and short days is making me impatient and grumpy with the Beast.

just take your time

not like you need it for a daily driver

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #57 on:** Dec 20, 2007, 06:39:59 AM »

No, but I get concerned that if it sits so long without moving in the apt parking lot they will think it is derelict and want to tow it. That would be spensive as it takes more than a normal wrecker to move the Beast.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #58 on:** Dec 20, 2007, 03:30:58 PM »

I have found the answer. I threw the timing light to the side and went by ear. Kept almost getting it to run well, but when it tried to settle into and idle it would stutter and surge...then I poke my head in teh engine bay and hear some hissing like a vacuum leak. Looking around and I see fuel puddling on the other side of the manifold. So I shuts er down and poke around and I am pissy cause I took it out two days ago and resealed EVERYTHING because fuel was leaking.

Finally tracked it down...air and fuel are coming out the throttle linkage bar that controls the butterfly. The plastic seal/bushings must be worn or degraded and they aren't sealing anymore. This means the carb requires a full rebuild kit.

I think this signals the end to my journey with the Predator. The rebuild kit for this thing is almost as much as a remaned motorcraft replacement carb would be. I think it might just be better and more reliable to go ahead and grab one of those off ebay and just drop it on.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #59 on:** Dec 20, 2007, 04:33:40 PM »

sounds like the right deal to me

yea that would suck major butt having that thing towed

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

Related Topics