Author Topic: cteng's 460 question thread...Small Successes (Read 27462 times)

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #120 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 03:44:56 PM »

OK, i tried it a a range of timing settings, no start. After I crank it I smell fuel and the pump is working properly so I am thinking I gots no spark? I pulled the dist cap and checked it was turning. Good there.

I am wondering if the coil has gone on me? I think I may grab one of those in-line light testers...I can't turn the key and check the spark unless I grow a clone.

Duffil · « **Reply #121 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 07:29:26 PM »

buy a remote ignition switch. it clips to the battery and to the cold side of the solenoid, and has wires like 6ft long so you can poke around under there and turn it over.

check for 12v at the positive side of the coil,(with the key on) and then at the negative side...that'll tell you if the primary windings shorted out.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #122 on:** Jan 15, 2008, 07:39:03 PM »

OK, cool. I ordered up one of those in line lights too, my local store did not have em.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #123 on:** Jan 18, 2008, 04:28:59 PM »

She runs again!
It was the ignition module. I got a new module and threw a new coil on there as well.
Gonna try the tuning thing again this weekend.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #124 on:** Jan 20, 2008, 03:51:15 PM »

Blew this ignition module too. Got it running, seemed to be doing ok. I pulled the throttle a couple times and it popped out the carb. Truck shut down and now it won't start again, just turns over, no spark. Probably a wiring problem? With the aluminum manifold, does the carb need to have a separate ground?
I think I need to find a wiring diagram. Anyone know a good source?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #125 on:** Apr 29, 2008, 07:23:15 PM »

New problem.

She seems to be running well. Idles good, revs strong. I went to take her for a ride and here is what happens.

She is smooth, good power through 1st gear and into second. Problem comes at the shift to third. Makes the shift no issues, but the motor drops all power and sort of POOFS back out the carb. Engine doesn't stall, but it has no power for a couple seconds, then it starts to recover and goes back to idling fine (I am coasting at this point). It does this every time it goes through the gears now. POOF. Carb adjustment thing?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #126 on:** Apr 29, 2008, 07:30:21 PM »

The poof from the carb makes me think timing... maybe a little backfire action?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #127 on:** Apr 29, 2008, 07:37:47 PM »

Possible. I haven't changed the timing since I had it running OK last time though. Question then is, which way to turn the timing?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #128 on:** Apr 29, 2008, 07:58:35 PM »

Now that, I have no idea on, haha. I am not even sure it is timing, it was just an educated guess. Maybe someone else that is not a complete noob (like me) will chime in.

Duffil · « **Reply #129 on:** Apr 29, 2008, 11:03:58 PM »

when yo blew the last ignition module, did you replace it with one that had the same color insulator?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #130 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 06:58:00 AM »

By insulator do you mean the connectors? If so, yes, they are all green. Other than that is it just a small aluminum box. Oh and the module wasn't the problem so I kept the old one as a spare. It does this running off both the new module and the old one.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #131 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 06:59:55 AM »

I was researching carb stuff and read that the electric choke needs to be grounded off one of the screws on the case. Is this true? I need to ground that if so. Don't think that is the problem though.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #132 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 08:05:43 AM »

Try it and see if it does anything. It shouldn't take too long to run a ground wire, and if that isn't the problem, oh well, at least you eliminated it as a potential problem.

fordh8r · « **Reply #133 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 08:45:44 AM »

Quote from: CTENG in KS on Apr 30, 2008, 06:58:00 AM

By insulator do you mean the connectors? If so, yes, they are all green. Other than that is it just a small aluminum box. Oh and the module wasn't the problem so I kept the old one as a spare. It does this running off both the new module and the old one.

By insulator he means the colored (plastic) insulating grommet where the wires enter the box itself. There's a variety of colors and most will not interchange but some may. The color would typically include either blue (most common), red, yellow, brown, and I believe green. Can't remember if there were more. It's been a while since I've dealt with these pieces.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #134 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 08:50:05 AM »

Oh, well it seems to function the same off both the original and the new one I bought. I don't think that is it. Guy at work said it sounds like a problem under load which would indicate vacuum leaks.

Duffil · « **Reply #135 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 09:32:04 AM »

the choke should have a little metal ring around the edge that holds it tight to the carb body...it grounds right there...no external wire is necessary. unless it is an addon aftermarket type.

this type needs a ground wire:

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #136 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 09:50:01 AM »

OK, I will take a look, but mine is factory for the carb with a metal ring so I am probably OK there.

subliminaltrips · « **Reply #137 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 10:00:34 AM »

if its bogging under the load it very well could be the choke, especially if its staying closed. if not the choke timing would be the first place id look. set it to factory spec with a light.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #138 on:** Apr 30, 2008, 10:52:15 AM »

Setting the timing on this thing is easier said than done.

It seems that the POOF is occuring at the shift as there is a sudden drop in load on the engine.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #139 on:** May 03, 2008, 12:43:36 PM »

Her beastliness has a new AC compressor and it blows COLD air! Wahoo. Now I just have to figure out why only the defrost vents are working. It isn't blowing through the normal vents in the dash.

It did before.

I went through all the vacuum hoses and caps, replaced all the cracking caps with hose I folded over and taped shut. The hose is holding up better so I figured I would use that to make my own caps. I relocated the vacuum secondary hose as well to run off a carb port instead of a manifold port. I tested the vacuum advance to make sure it is working as well...it is. Then I took a ride around the block and NO POOF! Will try a longer ride later. Only problem now is that, it seems the distributor is STUCK again! Son of a!!!!!!!!!

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #140 on:** May 03, 2008, 12:47:35 PM »

On newer vehicles, when there is a heater/AC control issue, it defaults to defrost only. Is this a vacuum operate switch? or is it electrical? or maybe mechanical? If it is a vacuum or electrical style switch, it will default back to defrost when there is a problem. If it is a mechanical switch mechanism, you must have broken something or forgotten to reconnect some linkage or something like that. Best of luck!

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #141 on:** May 03, 2008, 12:59:56 PM »

I am 90% sure it is electrical. I think, from the chiltons manual, that there is a relay in the system and I have yet to locate it. I am thinking the relay is either not working, or accidentally got disconnected?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #142 on:** May 03, 2008, 01:07:51 PM »

I would go through the switch diagrams and eliminate all possibilities of messed up electrical stuff. I guess worst case senario would be that the motor that changes to different settings is broken.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #143 on:** May 03, 2008, 04:05:28 PM »

Don't know, but at least I have AC from some of the vents.

OK, took it for a longer drive. Gets through the gears fine now, but still get the poof if I am in third and go to give it a good punch and accelerate. It just has no power and poofs at me. Seems like it leans way out if I try to punch it. I am wondering if the power piston in the carb is blown?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #144 on:** May 03, 2008, 04:08:52 PM »

no power... poof... lean condition... accelerator pump maybe? I am still thinking timing though. It only happens in third though? Wierd. I truely am out of ideas, some one please help!

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #145 on:** May 03, 2008, 04:18:15 PM »

OK, apparently holleys have a power valve, not piston. She is running great at idle and first gear. The timing seems to be pretty good. It is in 2nd and 3rd that she isn't so happy when I push the accelerator quickly.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #146 on:** May 03, 2008, 04:19:49 PM »

so is a power valve similar to an accelerator pump?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #147 on:** May 03, 2008, 04:59:40 PM »

No accelerator pump and power valve are two different things.

I have been reading more and I wonder if I am getting too much vacuum advance. That could explain why it runs so well at idle, but I have issues at sudden drop in vacuum. I think I need to disconnect the advance and take a drive to see if that changes anything. Maybe I will do that tonight.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #148 on:** May 03, 2008, 05:02:40 PM »

sounds like a plan

let us know what is wrong once you figure it out!

Duffil · « **Reply #149 on:** May 03, 2008, 06:09:48 PM »

if this thing ever backfired/popped out the carb, I will almost guarantee the power valve is junk.

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