0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Hi looking at doing the ball flip on my j arm when we came up with the idea of using tie rod ends instead This would involve removing ball on j arm an on steering box an inserting tappered sleeves into the holes which would suit a suitable heavy an common tie rod end an then making rod to suit Just wondering if anyone else has tried this type of idea
not that I have ever seen. you will lose clearance between the drag link and the shock if you do this, as a TRE will be larger than the drag link currently is. I do not see any advantage to doing this.
Tie rod end will have the nut on the underside of the j arm which will increase the clearance an lift the new drop link up so that it lines up straighter with the arm on the steering box
no. you do not install shocks opposite of the way they are designed to be installed. I am not worried; It's a $13 shock, and all the wheeling I've done until The 'Con, it hasn't caused a problem.
I'll be doing this again soon .. for a 3rd time ! i'm not a "rock crawler " I wont EVER buy hi steer ..
The only reason shocks need to be mounted the way they were designed is for clearance or mounting style. That being said, if clearance is the problem and you're willing to install new shock mounts, then by all means go ahead and flip em.
Not correct. It entirely depends on the shock. Some shocks can, some can't. (Well, you can run it upsidedown, I did. After alittle time, it was like not having a shock on at all.) Flipped it back around.. Shocked worked.These were the ES 3000
It is done to the stock J-arm, Hy steer is much better but if you cant afford that then the ball flip works very well. Less stress on steering parts when the ball flip is done on a lifted toyota. Read through the whole thread and you should find all answers that you have about this mod
I have RUF with about 3" of lift and it works fine. If you have the u-bolt flip kit then you will need to cut the ends of the bolts down to keep the J-arm from hitting them. That's what I had to do on mine to make it work.
I am thinking about swapping my rear springs up front this spring. I plan on building a pack with no more than 3 inches of lift, preferably less. I really do not need a lift, because thats what hammers, saws, and welders are for. I just want a nice riding, super flexible pack. I was wondering I can just run a flipped ball joint, or will something like this have too much flex for the steering system to handle, especially since I will have to shorten the drag link to do the spring swap. I really cannot do a high steer either because I would really have to do my homework and alot of work to make it clear since I am not lifting it alot. So what do you guys think I should do?
you better stock up on J-Arms...short drag link will make it bind, without even having to travel very far(droop) and you will break it if the suspension is flexy.
my shocks are mounted shaft down. itsnt that really the only way to see if your shocks are blown out. you see oil leaking and you kniw right. besides having no preasure
Started by Jared Project Research and Build-Ups
Started by KYOTA Chit Chat Camp
Started by solidaxle16 Trail Reports, Events, and Gatherings
Started by Plowking Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95
Started by trekker Toyota Pickup/4Runner Tech 1979-95