Topic: Noob got a question :(

[fatt_matt]

Dual Transfer Cases!!

im in highschool, and looking on purchasing a cheap, cheap old yota pick-up preferably before 86.. but thats beyond the point...

so this is going to be an autoshop project all next year.. i would like to model that of that beautiful 82 short bed yota for sale. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=31833.0     so here's my problem..

i know i have more to do before this.. like actually get the car, but thats not much of a problem because in my area cheap yota's seem to come by easily.. 


when setting up dual transfer cases, would you normally shorten the drive shaft, or push the motor forward, or a little of both? or am i completely wrong in the way of creating room for the extra case?
and what would you say an estimation of a timeline would be for completion of adding a second one?
it doesn't seem super difficult, is there allot of problems you run into adding one?

thanks..

[Duffil]

you shorten the rear and extend the front.  everything else stays in place.  It can be done--from a complete donor case and the truck rolling to a dual cased truck--in a day or less.  It's the shafts that can bugger your plans.

[fatt_matt [OP]]

you shorten the rear and extend the front.  everything else stays in place.  It can be done--from a complete donor case and the truck rolling to a dual cased truck--in a day or less.  It's the shafts that can bugger your plans.

how would you recomend shortening or lengthening the shaft?

[yota_krawler]

you leave the motor tranny t-case in its place and get a case adapter bolt up another t-case and get a cross member. Then extend your front drive line and shorten your rear drive line accordingly, and if you lift the truck a good amount you will have to make drive lines anyway so you might as well get them made once and be done with it.

[intheworks]

you leave the motor tranny t-case in its place and get a case adapter bolt up another t-case and get a cross member. Then extend your front drive line and shorten your rear drive line accordingly, and if you lift the truck a good amount you will have to make drive lines anyway so you might as well get them made once and be done with it.

x2

[fatt_matt [OP]]

k
sounds interesting..
looks like im going to go ahead with it..

thanks for the help!

[fatt_matt [OP]]

one more part of this question..

where do u get teh new drvieshafts

[MiniSimp]

Local driveline shop, or Marlin can hook you up.

[yota_krawler]

Local driveline shop, or Marlin can hook you up.

x2

[Tice]

one more part of this question..

where do u get teh new drvieshafts

I make my own. After going through about 10 in the past few years ( destoying them and changing wb and such) I just got tired of paying for something I figured out for my self.

[fatt_matt [OP]]

I make my own. After going through about 10 in the past few years ( destoying them and changing wb and such) I just got tired of paying for something I figured out for my self.

to make them.. would you just hack teh stock shaft... then somehow extend it with a pipe, then weld???
or is it more complex than that???
thanks

[DTB]

to make them.. would you just hack teh stock shaft... then somehow extend it with a pipe, then weld???
or is it more complex than that???
thanks

thats the basic idea yea....u need more slip though than a stock shaft can offer... alot of companies sell the splined slip parts already like this (ready to weld) >>  To install, cut the tube from your drive shaft and replace with a length of .095 or .120 wall tubing. Set up the drive shaft so that you have 3" of compression and 5" of extension at ride height.

[mickeyfinn]

  what happen to your pup in your avatar

[Tice]

to make them.. would you just hack teh stock shaft... then somehow extend it with a pipe, then weld???
or is it more complex than that???
thanks

Pretty much what DTB said.  My front is a square shaft. For the rear I re-used stock Yota slip end.  I used shld 40 pipe for the rear also. Just cut the welds on the factory shaft with a chop saw or grinder. Measure out how long the tube needs to be and tack weld it together. I bolt it into the truck to make sure it's the right length then with the rear on stands I rotate the tire and watch the shaft for any out of roundness( if that is the right word) then when it looks good I weld it up.

[fullthrottle]

I rotate the tire and watch the shaft for any

eccentric or (off center rotation)

[YotaChris]

Is this truck going to be a daily driver? If not I'd make them out of square tubing.

[Tice]

eccentric or (off center rotation)

Thats the word!!

[fatt_matt [OP]]

thanks for the help... kinda forgot about the thread... some answers.. and mroe questions

what happen to your pup in your avatar

he was born with a heart problem. he was thr runt of the litter, was not suppose to live past 6weeks but made it to 15 months!! truly sad. HOWEVER, we may get one more from the same parents and try again! because his parents are mating again...    but nothing could ever replace him!!!

i always thought eccentric meant like vibrant, or kinda crazy... which i guess works in the context...

Is this truck going to be a daily driver? If not I'd make them out of square tubing.

it'd be a definite daily driver, but i was still contemplting the square front driveshaft, because i feel like i'd never drive more that what 20mph off in 4wd.. so it might work out.. unless it makes allot of noise in 2wd..


question is about teh square drive shaft...
What if you snag a rock on it? wouldn't you just rip the thing to pieces when you'd try to crawl, because teh circular ones would allow for some movement and slide on a rock.. (if that makes any sense)

[MiniSimp]

i was still contemplting the square front driveshaft, because i feel like i'd never drive more that what 20mph off in 4wd.. so it might work out.. unless it makes allot of noise in 2wd..
question is about teh square drive shaft...
What if you snag a rock on it? wouldn't you just rip the thing to pieces when you'd try to crawl, because teh circular ones would allow for some movement and slide on a rock.. (if that makes any sense)

It will only be noisy in 2wd when the front hubs are locked, the square shafts are extremely stong, mine has seen a lot of rocks with the scars to prove it with nothing more than scratches. Just use 1/4" for both pieces and you'll have no problems.

[jb1981]

some advice on making circular driveshafts:

make some brackets that are flat on one side, and a semi-circle on the other so that they can be placed on a work bench and have the drivelines laid right on top of them to ensure that they are made strait.  you can also rotate the shaft in these brackets while you're welding to make sure they are strait.

thought that might help.  saw it on extreme 4x4 or somthing like that.

[fatt_matt [OP]]

some advice on making circular driveshafts:

make some brackets that are flat on one side, and a semi-circle on the other so that they can be placed on a work bench and have the drivelines laid right on top of them to ensure that they are made strait.  you can also rotate the shaft in these brackets while you're welding to make sure they are strait.

thought that might help.  saw it on extreme 4x4 or somthing like that.

clever.. will try that if i go with the circular..
however i doubt that'll happen because my minor fabricating skills and welding.. will probally make me go with the square.. that seems pretty easy...

i started reading up on some threads about it.. good solution!!!

[BLACKDOG]

square tube is definitely the way to go for the front.  I went off Minisimps design, and it works out perfectly   use 1/4" thick for both tubes, and you'll be good.   I actually discovered that when I'm driving under power (not coasting) I can actually go up to 65 mph in 4hi with the hubs locked w/o vibrations

[fatt_matt [OP]]

yeah.. sounds tempting..

i think i saw the design on MCForums....
i'll look into it... and follow those..

btw... i dig your signature, about ass..