Author Topic: Quick disconnect doors (Read 7233 times)

idunno · « **on:** Feb 20, 2007, 02:37:43 PM »

does anyone make quick disconnect hinges for '85 toy. Saw some on a '95 Bronco and want some for mine

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 20, 2007, 05:01:50 PM »

Make them

if you look at the hinge, you can cut the pin out, and then get a bolt/hinge pin to put in its place. Quick and easy disconnect

I haven't done it on the doors on my truck, but I've got two sets of hinges, and I've already cut the pins on the hinges on my half doors. When I cut the pins on my full doors, I'll be able to swap between doors with the pull of a pin

jimbo74 · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 20, 2007, 05:05:07 PM »

Ford8r has done this, he just drilled a hole and put a mini hitch pin through an 8mm bolt.....

there is a guy on TTORA, might be here too, that sells some, but they are like $65 for the part that stays on the truck and the mating part for a set of half doors and a set for the full doors....

personally, when i get around to it, I'm going to drill out the bolts and add a pin to it..... i already have a set of hinges off of my rolled truck

speedemon · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 20, 2007, 05:13:46 PM »

4x innovations makes a kit but i don't know how much it runs
edit: http://4xinnovations.com/pages/guarding/hingekit.htm

idunno · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 20, 2007, 08:05:00 PM »

thanks a bunch... I'm gonna cut the pins out. So simple. I feel pretty stoopid. I had thought of everything else including trying to mount some external hinges like on a jeep.

4inchToyotas · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 20, 2007, 08:17:23 PM »

I just run the top bolt in mine and opened up the top hol to make a slot in teh hinge.. two turns off two turns on

Duffil · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 20, 2007, 08:30:46 PM »

supposedly, if you drill and bolt, they get sloppy. slotting the cab side of the hinge like a U
C
is supposed to be the way to go. Yet I have not done either.

RCKSQRL · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 21, 2007, 10:47:43 AM »

Quote from: speedemon55 on Feb 20, 2007, 05:13:46 PM

4x innovations makes a kit but i don't know how much it runs
edit: http://4xinnovations.com/pages/guarding/hingekit.htm

Have the kit but havent installed at this time. High quality hinges and great customer service. Highly recommend!

All_Set · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 21, 2007, 11:08:06 AM »

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=28650.0

Been about 3/4 of a year now. As long as you keep the brass bushing they won't get as sloppy (at least as quickly.) I keep my full doors on most of the time and as of yet, no slop. (Making sure the brass sleeve doesn't get lost when swapping can be a pain sometimes.)

I can change the doors out pretty quick too. No tools required.

christyle · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 12, 2007, 04:36:45 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Feb 20, 2007, 08:30:46 PM

supposedly, if you drill and bolt, they get sloppy. slotting the cab side of the hinge like a U
C
is supposed to be the way to go. Yet I have not done either.

i did it to mine, works like a charm. Takes about...5 minutes to get them off, a little longer to get them back on if you're doing it alone, the hinges can get turned while you're trying to set them back on, but its def possible. Works great, glad I did it.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 12, 2007, 04:52:05 PM »

the 4xinovvations ones is great, if you want to pay $70 for a set of door hinges.....

fordh8r has done the drill a hole and put a pin through it, and hasnt had any problems with it getting sloppy, he daily drives his truck

i plan on doing this as well, ive already got the hinges apart, jsut need to get some pins and some new bolts to use

DTB · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 12, 2007, 04:55:24 PM »

Quote from: christyle on Mar 12, 2007, 04:36:45 PM

i did it to mine, works like a charm. Takes about...5 minutes to get them off, a little longer to get them back on if you're doing it alone, the hinges can get turned while you're trying to set them back on, but its def possible. Works great, glad I did it.

5 minutes for a quick release doesnt sound to quick to me... i can get mine on or off in less than that with the stock bolts. less if its pouring rain on me lol

Redbeard3261 · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 12, 2007, 05:07:42 PM »

I did mine some time ago. Love it

christyle · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 12, 2007, 05:11:33 PM »

w/e, works for me...

jimbo74 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 24, 2007, 06:22:47 PM »

anyone got a picture of the top and lower hinges of the u and c cut ones? i tried the pin idea, and although i like it, i cant seem to line it up right, and my hands are soooo huge that i cant get my fingers in enough to wiggle the bolts out

Mnmstoy · « **Reply #15 on:** May 25, 2007, 09:18:15 AM »

I did mine over a year ago and it worked out great. The top hinge on the truck.. I cut the top off and weld it to the bottom half to beef up the hinge.
The pin it self is a little shorter.

bottom hinge. the pin is a little longer.

door side of the hinge.

top hinge as one unit.

bottom hinge as one unit.

the concept behind my way is that you don't need to add or remove any pin....although, I do use the center pin between the two hinges to keep my full size door from swing out if the wind blows hard while the door is open. You do have to find a happy medium between the two sets of doors. and the brass bushings do have to be cared for and not loose them. I change a door out in under a minute....shut both doors for that matter.
Mike
The bottom hinge needs to be set in place with been before positioning the top hinge/pin. and same in reverse. Lift up door and pull out on top then remove bottom.
One last note and this may be the deal breaker. You do have the modify your front fenders some. I just remembered.
let me see if I can find a pic.

at the bottom of the A pillar the fender needs to be trimmed some about 1/4" right at the corner. doing so lets the door pull up. I would thing if you had the bottom pin the same size as the top maybe you would be able to get away with it. I left the bottom pin longer and use it as a guide to set my doors in place. First bottom and the top....to remove first top then bottom. My hands are short and stubby so I know what you mean.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 25, 2007, 09:36:05 AM »

anyone for the C and U slots?

i have seen this on pirate after searching, but i thought that wasnt the right one, as they jsut seem to be 2 U shaped and no C shape

All_Set · « **Reply #17 on:** May 25, 2007, 10:24:52 AM »

Quote from: Mnmstoy on May 25, 2007, 09:18:15 AM

I did mine over a year ago and it worked out great. The top hinge on the truck.. I cut the top off and weld it to the bottom half to beef up the hinge.
The pin it self is a little shorter.

bottom hinge. the pin is a little longer.

door side of the hinge.

top hinge as one unit.

bottom hinge as one unit.

the concept behind my way is that you don't need to add or remove any pin....although, I do use the center pin between the two hinges to keep my full size door from swing out if the wind blows hard while the door is open. You do have to find a happy medium between the two sets of doors. and the brass bushings do have to be cared for and not loose them. I change a door out in under a minute....shut both doors for that matter.
Mike
The bottom hinge needs to be set in place with been before positioning the top hinge/pin. and same in reverse. Lift up door and pull out on top then remove bottom.
One last note and this may be the deal breaker. You do have the modify your front fenders some. I just remembered.
let me see if I can find a pic.

at the bottom of the A pillar the fender needs to be trimmed some about 1/4" right at the corner. doing so lets the door pull up. I would thing if you had the bottom pin the same size as the top maybe you would be able to get away with it. I left the bottom pin longer and use it as a guide to set my doors in place. First bottom and the top....to remove first top then bottom. My hands are short and stubby so I know what you mean.

Great pictures. But... I didn't have to trim my fenders!

So it can be done without trimming.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 29, 2007, 05:55:10 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Feb 20, 2007, 08:30:46 PM

supposedly, if you drill and bolt, they get sloppy. slotting the cab side of the hinge like a U
C
is supposed to be the way to go. Yet I have not done either.

anyone got pictures of this?

Yota Tony · « **Reply #19 on:** May 29, 2007, 07:35:21 PM »

I've knocked my hindge pins out and I have a pin in place that has a wire 'lock' on it.
I simply pop that lock, out comes the pin and off comes the doors.

BigMike · « **Reply #20 on:** May 30, 2007, 11:24:11 AM »

Wouldn't this be a whole hell of a lot stronger? and extremely cheap:

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #21 on:** May 30, 2007, 03:20:04 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on May 30, 2007, 11:24:11 AM

Wouldn't this be a whole hell of a lot stronger? and extremely cheap:

not sure how red X would help?

BigMike · « **Reply #22 on:** May 30, 2007, 04:17:18 PM »

It comes up ok for me, let me attach it.

I'm linking it from Pirates, so that's the problem.

Quote from: BigMike on May 30, 2007, 11:24:11 AM

and extremely cheap

Well I don't know about this, I mean you need to buy a bolt!

Redbeard3261 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 30, 2007, 05:27:41 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on May 30, 2007, 04:17:18 PM

It comes up ok for me, let me attach it.

I'm linking it from Pirates, so that's the problem.

Well I don't know about this, I mean you need to buy a bolt!

This is how I did mine over 5 yrs ago and love them.

BigMike · « **Reply #24 on:** May 30, 2007, 08:47:56 PM »

It seems to be the best way I've seen so far, and will be doing it to mine this year

IVrunner · « **Reply #25 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 07:25:30 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on May 30, 2007, 04:17:18 PM

It comes up ok for me, let me attach it.

I'm linking it from Pirates, so that's the problem.

Well I don't know about this, I mean you need to buy a bolt!

i did it the way BigMike showed in the picture, but so far i think its pretty difficult to get the bolts in and out by yourself especially with the brass bushing. getting the bolt out is easier than getting it in, but i still need a hammer and screw driver. getting them in is a pain because your trying to hold the door up and wedge the bolt in along with tapping it down with a hammer.

i actually wish i would have done it this way. doesnt look as nice but seems simpler

Quote from: Mnmstoy on May 25, 2007, 09:18:15 AM

notajeep · « **Reply #26 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 07:31:57 PM »

I use a 10 mm socket.

rednk1980 · « **Reply #27 on:** Jul 10, 2007, 10:25:58 PM »

Quote from: notajeep on Jul 10, 2007, 07:31:57 PM

I use a 10 mm socket.

yeah me to 15min with a 10mm socket and my tube doors are on. Works like a dream.

idunno [OP]

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