Author Topic: found!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Read 33301 times)

Okiyota · « **Reply #90 on:** May 11, 2010, 09:29:53 PM »

In this picture, what front springs/setup are you running? I'm sure its ruf, but is the front hanger moved forward at all or are the spring perches drilled to move the axle any further forward? Or is the axle just the standard 2" further forward from stock with the ruf swap? I am working on an 82 right now and doing ruf, but debating on moving the hanger forward another 1-1.5" and i have the perches with center/.5"back/.5"forward holes drilled which would allow me to run the axle 3"/3.5"/4" forward depending on what hole i use in the spring perch. I am wanting to run 37's as well and i think yours looks about right as far as having the axle forward to where it wont rub when stuffed.

Thanks

79toy20r · « **Reply #91 on:** May 11, 2010, 09:58:10 PM »

Yea it's ruf. The hanger is moved forward around 1/2" I wish I would have gone farther. That picture is with the motor out so the axle will settle back about 1/4" or so I assume. Go farther than you think you have too. I think I'm going to rub at full lock while compressed so I'm going to tub the firewall a shade.

Okiyota · « **Reply #92 on:** May 12, 2010, 08:07:57 AM »

Right on, thanks man. I am planning on moving the hanger 1.5" forward from where it is normally mounted, then the ruf's and with the perches drilled like they are i will be able to move the axle 3", 3.5" or 4" forward depending on which hole in the spring perch i use. How close does your tire come to hitting the front of the fender under the marker light when stuffed? Do you have any good profile pics of your truck with the tire fully stuffed (turned and/or straight), probably not since you dont have the engine in yet?

Thanks again.

79toy20r · « **Reply #93 on:** May 14, 2010, 08:52:18 PM »

Yea I don't have any pictures of it stuffed. I think I will be ok straight forward, but when turned at stuff I think it will rub the firewall.

79toy20r · « **Reply #94 on:** May 14, 2010, 09:38:09 PM »

Finally found a decent deal on an ifs rear axle. also got both drivelines. All for $100

Got the interior all stripped out

And a comparison picture

bigheadbenny · « **Reply #95 on:** May 18, 2010, 08:50:59 PM »

you work at the store on francis dont you? pretty sure i saw your red truck there a few weeks ago. truck is looking good, i like those wheels.

79toy20r · « **Reply #96 on:** May 18, 2010, 10:01:22 PM »

Yea I sure do.

bigheadbenny · « **Reply #97 on:** May 19, 2010, 06:08:14 AM »

cool. well, goodluck with that body mount. it doesnt look like much fun.

79toy20r · « **Reply #98 on:** May 19, 2010, 08:52:52 PM »

does anybody know what these two green plugs go to? I don't feel like ripping the entire harness apart. They were going straight to the battery. Thanks

and my approach angle

79toy20r · « **Reply #99 on:** May 24, 2010, 05:53:13 PM »

No huge news on the truck, just been cutting and welding floor boards. But did get the wife a new car. Thought I would share

zj4runner · « **Reply #100 on:** May 27, 2010, 07:36:20 PM »

What size springs are those

79toy20r · « **Reply #101 on:** May 27, 2010, 07:51:09 PM »

They are a custom RUF with f150's in the rear

THK Matt · « **Reply #102 on:** May 27, 2010, 09:07:50 PM »

gorgeous Audi.

what size wheels are those and size tire?

79toy20r · « **Reply #103 on:** May 27, 2010, 09:58:11 PM »

Hey thanks. They are OEM 19x9"RS4 wheels with 235/35/19 falkens

x91crawlerx · « **Reply #104 on:** May 30, 2010, 10:30:47 PM »

nice truck how you like those tires

chachilla · « **Reply #105 on:** May 31, 2010, 12:05:54 AM »

The two green plugs do go straight to the battery. They are just missing some little clips that would clip to the battery terminal.

79toy20r · « **Reply #106 on:** May 31, 2010, 10:12:21 AM »

Quote from: chachilla on May 31, 2010, 12:05:54 AM

The two green plugs do go straight to the battery. They are just missing some little clips that would clip to the battery terminal.

thanks, that's what I needed to know. Out of curiousity do you know what they power?

THK Matt · « **Reply #107 on:** Jun 01, 2010, 02:44:25 PM »

Quote from: 79toy20r on May 27, 2010, 09:58:11 PM

Hey thanks. They are OEM 19x9"RS4 wheels with 235/35/19 falkens

Wow those are sexy for OEM

79toy20r · « **Reply #108 on:** Jun 09, 2010, 07:38:12 PM »

So I got the floorboards cut out. And new body mounts made. I should have floor pans in tomorrow.

Okiyota · « **Reply #109 on:** Jun 09, 2010, 10:47:29 PM »

So i'm running into some conflicting information regarding ruf on 1st gens and getting the axle pushed as far forward as i am hoping, maybe you can help since you are the only 1st gen i have found that actually looks like the front axle is close to where i want it...

- Did you use the factory shackle location (rear of the front springs)?
- Have you put your engine in yet, i'm curious to see how your shackle angle turns out after it is sitting with the drivetrain in it?
- Have you mounted your IFS steering box, and do you have pics of how far forward you had to move it?
- Would you forsee any issues with moving the front spring hanger another 1" further than you did, obviously it would make the shackle angle worse, in which case i would probably need to make a new mounting location for them, most likely right where the body mount is!!
- Not sure if you have tried twisting it up yet, but if so was there any tire contact with the front of the fender, under the turn signal where you cut the valance off? Does it look like there will be at full stuff?

Sorry for all the questions, i'm at a fork right now and i'm not sure which way i want to go and everything i am reading is pushing me back and forth.

Thanks.

79toy20r · « **Reply #110 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 10:31:22 AM »

No worries about all the questions. I will take pictures of the steering box today. You would probably be ok if you pushed the axle forward another .5" or so. especially if you're running longer shackles. I used the stock shackle location also. I have no put the drivetrain in yet, hopefully in the next week or two.
As far as articulating it, i have not yet. I'm thinking I will be ok on the front under the turn signal. But if you move your axle farther forward you might have to do some more trimming or run larger bumpstops if you dont want it to hit.
I should have pictures up for you tonight

Okiyota · « **Reply #111 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 04:51:02 PM »

Thanks man, one more question while i'm thinking about it...

What generation rears did you use? Is the main leaf from a 1st gen?

Reason i'm asking is a 1st gen spring is 48" long and 21.125" from center pin to front of spring, where a 2nd gen rear is 48" also but 20.5" from center pin to front of spring, thats 5/8" further forward without touching the shackle angle/mount because they are the same length end to end. A marlin/tg/allpro front spring is 47" long and 22" from center pin to front of spring. So essentially if i were to build my rears using the main leaf from my rear 88 pack I could move my front hanger 1" forward of where it is recommended for a normal lift from any of the above companies and it would allow me to use the original shackle mount and still push me 2.5" further forward than any of their springs, which they all claim to push the axle forward 1.5". I think that makes sense.

How this pertains to you... you said you wish you would have moved your crossmember another inch or so forward, well if you are using the original rear springs from that truck as your basis for your ruf, then you could look for a 2nd gen rear pack and get another 5/8" forward without moving the shackle or crossmember at all, just some food for thought. I know 5/8" isnt a ton, but if you are barely rubbing as it sits now it might be just enough to clear everything. Take into consideration though that going forward even more will affect your caster more and may cause issues with clearance between the tie rod and drag link, but i'm sure you already know that.

79toy20r · « **Reply #112 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 07:59:56 PM »

I used the springs from my first gen
Yea another thing is that I would have to move my gearbox forward also. But it would be way better than moving my hanger. I would also probably either cut and turn knuckles or build a diamond housing. We will see though.
Here's some pics of steering box

and here are some of the floor pans and tubbing

79toy20r · « **Reply #113 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 08:01:10 PM »

Sorry about the crappy Iphone pics
and if you need any other pictures just ask

Okiyota · « **Reply #114 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 08:20:15 PM »

Right on man, looks good, especially your tub job on the floor/firewall, most people end up screwing up when welding sheetmetal that thin, you did a good job. I am trying to avoid tubbing mine, i really dont want to cut it anymore than i have too, its an 82 Trekker that is in real nice shape and they are getting harder and harder to find so i'm trying to not hack at it too bad.

Your steering box looks to be right where i was expecting it, i was even thinking of cutting a small hole in the core support just for the front of the box (the round part) to pass through on mine just to get it a bit further if need be.

How much clearance do you have between your tie rod and drag link as it sits?

79toy20r · « **Reply #115 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 09:31:26 PM »

Yea I hadn't planned on tubbing it, but the floor pans had to be cut out anyways. I agree, cut as little as possible on the trekker. I had to cut into the core support a little bit for the box also. The drag link and tie rod are basically parallel with the drivetrain in. If you didn't want to cut too much of your core support you could look into a fj80 gear box. They swing out the front

79toy20r · « **Reply #116 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 09:34:41 PM »

Also, unless you go with a square driveline, make sure you get a long travel spline kit and a driveline out of an ifs truck.

Okiyota · « **Reply #117 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 09:37:56 PM »

Yeah i already started looking for a FJ box, but i thought it was the fj60 box that was reverse? I'll have to check and see for sure now. I'm going to have some custom shafts made for the truck, i live up in the mountains in colorado and get a bit of snow in the winter so driving in 4hi happens pretty frequently and i want to make sure it drives good still.

79toy20r · « **Reply #118 on:** Jun 11, 2010, 09:58:10 PM »

I believe it's both 60 and 80 boxes.

79toy20r · « **Reply #119 on:** Jun 21, 2010, 02:56:39 PM »

Ok so the floor pans and tunnel are done other than shifter holes. I also have a leak from my windshield and it's been raining like crazy all month

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