Author Topic: House Projects (Read 89729 times)

junya92toy · « **Reply #570 on:** Nov 25, 2011, 04:41:58 PM »

What did that cost ya

jimbo74 · « **Reply #571 on:** Nov 25, 2011, 04:57:20 PM »

it was $49. but at this point, just glad we have it fixed. and he taught me what was wrong, that was worth the $50, and they were here, within a couple hours of the call, so that was priceless on its own, he also said he extended the time delay of the blower fan so it can better evacuate the hot gases before it shuts off so it wont get condensation in the lines and trip again

blumagoo · « **Reply #572 on:** Nov 25, 2011, 05:32:19 PM »

cool, Glad to hear you have heat now.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #573 on:** Nov 28, 2011, 07:31:57 PM »

any other thoughts on the concrete countertops, or about stuff on the wood ?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #574 on:** Dec 06, 2011, 10:09:59 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Nov 28, 2011, 07:31:57 PM

any other thoughts on the concrete countertops, or about stuff on the wood ?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #575 on:** Dec 07, 2011, 09:02:49 AM »

i am going to be mounting some shelves to the wood paneling in the living room.

since it is wood paneling, how am i going to find the studs?

i will be mounting those tracks with the little slits in them, that then have a metal triangle clip into them so i can tailor the height, with a board across. they will be at least 12" deep, and 36" long

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #576 on:** Dec 07, 2011, 07:29:46 PM »

Studs should be 16" on center. typically you can start on a corner or at a door frame and measure out.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #577 on:** Dec 07, 2011, 08:29:04 PM »

i knew that, this house is very odd though, the room where we are doing these shelves is an addition, and the wall right next to it is brick or faux brick...... it is also withing a few feet of a huge window, so maybe i will be able to think that window has a stud next to it?

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #578 on:** Dec 12, 2011, 11:22:41 PM »

Doesnt matter if its an addition or not, as long as it was a legal addition, the studs should be 16 on center. Where the addition's wall meets the brick or faux brick, there'll be a stud there. Typically windows are mounted between studs, not always though. I don't remember the requirements in CA.

*** YELLER *** · « **Reply #579 on:** Dec 12, 2011, 11:28:30 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Dec 07, 2011, 09:02:49 AM

i am going to be mounting some shelves to the wood paneling in the living room.

since it is wood paneling, how am i going to find the studs?

i will be mounting those tracks with the little slits in them, that then have a metal triangle clip into them so i can tailor the height, with a board across. they will be at least 12" deep, and 36" long

you can take one of those things that drag the ground that most of us call knuckles and knock on the wood paneling and listen for a NON hollow sound there is the stud. . . . TADA YELLER is a genius

jimbo74 · « **Reply #580 on:** Dec 20, 2011, 06:34:06 PM »

going to paint the kitchen cabinets... any tips or tricks? got most of it sanded today... man is it messy.....

junya92toy · « **Reply #581 on:** Dec 20, 2011, 06:36:06 PM »

Ya, attach a shop vac to the sander

jimbo74 · « **Reply #582 on:** Dec 20, 2011, 06:37:44 PM »

Quote from: junya92toy on Dec 20, 2011, 06:36:06 PM

Ya, attach a shop vac to the sander

haha, too late for that

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #583 on:** Dec 21, 2011, 04:41:39 PM »

clean, clean, clean, and more clean before you paint.

When you think you've gotten all the dust, you haven't

jimbo74 · « **Reply #584 on:** Dec 21, 2011, 08:06:35 PM »

Quote from: BLACKDOG on Dec 21, 2011, 04:41:39 PM

clean, clean, clean, and more clean before you paint.

When you think you've gotten all the dust, you haven't

what is best to remove it all? i don't want to use water or a chemical because it might raise the grain..... also, i don't want to use the waxy tack cloths because that might not make the paint adhere properly......

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #585 on:** Dec 21, 2011, 09:13:34 PM »

I'd probably go with vacuuming all edges and trim and such, and use a lightly dampened old t shirt. Basically just damp enough to have the dust stick to it.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #586 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 12:50:59 PM »

so most of my house has 2 prong outlets with open grounds..... behind my refridgerator, there is a 3 pronged outlet......

so if there is nothing plugged in but hte tester, it says open ground, but if i plu an appliance into the other outlet, and the tester in, it says that it is wired correctly?

i am confused

Slolyfe · « **Reply #587 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 01:54:31 PM »

Your ground and neutral go back to the same bus bar in the main panel. All I can figure is by plugging something in you are closing the 'loop' of your refer ground and rest of the plugs neutral.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #588 on:** Dec 27, 2011, 02:15:50 PM »

so what does that mean? it is properly grounded? or? or is it properly grounded when i have 2 things plugged in?

that plug has the fridge and the micro plugged in all the time -- so would that be a full circuit? that is properly grounded, or is something fishy?

Slolyfe · « **Reply #589 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 04:57:04 PM »

I would say fishy. Like someone wired your refer ground back to the other plugs neutral? But it doesn't sound normal.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #590 on:** Feb 20, 2012, 10:42:12 PM »

so... we just got new (well, used)range... new to us....

how do i wire it up?

i know i can't just toss a wire nut on it, and call it good, haha

the wire bundle on the left is coming from the wall, the wire bundle on the right goes up to the new range

this is what it looks like:

Slolyfe · « **Reply #591 on:** Feb 20, 2012, 11:01:34 PM »

If the house is wired correctly the red and black should be your hot leads and white neutral. I am assuming it is a 220 range. Take a volt meter and check;
Red to white = 110 to 120
Black to white = 110 to 120
Red to black = 220 to 240

On the range side the green should be the neutral lead. (but look up the manual online).

with 220 appliances it does not matter what side the 2 hot wires go to as long as you get the neutral correct. But if this is a 110 appliance then forget everything I just said.

You can throw some wire nuts on it just tape them up well. But code would be to install a junction box.

toyotaboy · « **Reply #592 on:** Feb 20, 2012, 11:05:30 PM »

you need two flex connectors, a 4s shallow, box 4s blank, your gonna have to rewire the panel side since you have a 220 system with nuet as your line side and what appears to be strait 220 as your load. make sure you re-size brkr since it looks like you have #10s (30A) coming in and #12(20A) going to the range. gotta pay attention to that

toyotaboy · « **Reply #593 on:** Feb 20, 2012, 11:07:19 PM »

Quote from: Slolyfe on Feb 20, 2012, 11:01:34 PM

On the range side the green should be the neutral lead. (but look up the manual online).

be careful when giving advice on electricity if you are not an electrician. that is an extremely false statement. the ground and nuet are VERY different. correctly grounding things is very important and without thorough knowledge its very easy to lead people astray. in reality when something goes to "ground" it actually seeks its source which is actually XO on the transformer which is where the neutral is derived from...

Slolyfe · « **Reply #594 on:** Feb 20, 2012, 11:12:16 PM »

Quote from: toyotaboy on Feb 20, 2012, 11:07:19 PM

be careful when giving advice on electricity if you are not an electrician. that is an extremely false statement. the ground and nuet are VERY different

True should have prefaced with "Dont assume anything is set up correctly", which is what I did.

Good point on resizing the breaker.

HULK · « **Reply #595 on:** Feb 21, 2012, 06:43:08 AM »

jimbo74...check each set of wires with the white and the black and see if you get 120volts, also the white and red on the same flex line. Then check the red and black, and see if it gives you 240 volts. On the second flex, see if the black and red give you 240 volts. If that wire is brown on the second flex, that is what was used in the days for neutral, then that and the red should give you 120volts. The green and red should give you 120 volts, and the green and black should give you 120 volts. If the second flex has no power, then it might continue up for a hood or a microwave plug. Back in the days they use to tap off the 240 volts and grab one leg for the hood. Hope this helps. What year was the house built?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #596 on:** Feb 21, 2012, 07:37:28 AM »

house was built in 1960

what do you mean second flex?

the flex conduit on the left is right out of the wall, the flex condiut on the right goes directly into my new range

there are no brown wires

the one on the left from the wall has white, black, red

into my new stove is green, black, red

junya92toy · « **Reply #597 on:** Feb 21, 2012, 08:34:03 AM »

They mean flex conduit.
Better call a electrician

jimbo74 · « **Reply #598 on:** Feb 21, 2012, 08:37:02 AM »

Quote from: junya92toy on Feb 21, 2012, 08:34:03 AM

They mean flex conduit.
Better call a electrician

i know they mean flex conduit... what i am saying, is one is power, one is the appliance.... there isn't any bridging it off to a hood or anyhting

i don't need an electrician to do this. i have most of it done. just trying to figure out the last part... and that is what the internet is for.. once i have the knowledge to do it, i will be fine....

junya92toy · « **Reply #599 on:** Feb 21, 2012, 12:23:03 PM »

touchy touchy, well its the simple part you seemed confused on, thats why i suggested it

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