Author Topic: House Projects (Read 88811 times)

HULK · « **Reply #600 on:** Feb 21, 2012, 12:34:57 PM »

That's simple bro. Tie the black to black, red to red, and the green to white. You need to put a 4x4 junctions box, then cover it with a 4x4 blank cover, that's all.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #601 on:** Feb 22, 2012, 05:47:56 PM »

well here is the wiring now! wire nutted, in a junction box, although it isnt a 4x4

it works, and i didnt blow up the house or kill myself!

here is a pic of the old turquoise one! and the new one ($50 off craigs)

HULK · « **Reply #602 on:** Feb 23, 2012, 01:58:18 PM »

That's good. I just suggested the 4x4 box for more room, but that's all it takes. Good Job man.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #603 on:** Mar 01, 2012, 07:42:08 PM »

here is the new project......

if you can see in my cooktop above, there is the same ugly turquoise as my old stove that is on my oven.....

so....... time for some paint

hi-temp, vht.... rated to 500* which is fine for the oven.....

turned out pretty good i think.... a few coats of low gloss black, and a few coats of clear on top

got the oven going right now, it is at 425ish.... no bubbles or anything

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #604 on:** Mar 03, 2012, 01:21:30 PM »

Nice work. If that outside face gets over 100*F, you've got some serious issues.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #605 on:** Mar 03, 2012, 01:30:50 PM »

Quote from: BLACKDOG on Mar 03, 2012, 01:21:30 PM

Nice work. If that outside face gets over 100*F, you've got some serious issues.

true that..... i figure with 500* paint, i should be more than fine, on the outside..... ovens only get to 500 anyway, on the inside

and looks way better than the turquoise blue

jimbo74 · « **Reply #606 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 09:47:26 PM »

ok...since this has pretty much turned into my thread

going to replace the sink tomorrow, getting rid of the old, dingy white sink with a stainless steel one that is deeper and cost $6 off craigs

so... i am thinking, figure how to remove the plumbing, and then jsut yanking it out...... then put some caulking in around the edge, and drop i nthe new one? reconnect the plumbing and good?

it does have a garabe disposal, so i will need to figure out how to deal with that.... do i need to put soem caulking around the drain too?

Stocker · « **Reply #607 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 10:11:23 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Mar 25, 2012, 09:47:26 PM

going to replace the sink tomorrow, getting rid of the old, dingy white sink with a stainless steel one that is deeper and cost $6 off craigs

so... i am thinking, figure how to remove the plumbing, and then jsut yanking it out...... then put some caulking in around the edge, and drop i nthe new one? reconnect the plumbing and good?

Yup

Quote

it does have a garabe disposal, so i will need to figure out how to deal with that.... do i need to put soem caulking around the drain too?

Hardware or plumbing supply has a sort of "Y" connector (not sure what it's called) for hooking the disposal drain into the main drainpipe.

Run a bead of plumbers putty around the drain in the sink. Some will squish out when you tighten it. Just wipe off the excess.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #608 on:** Mar 25, 2012, 10:15:40 PM »

already have the garabe disposal on the old sink, jsut going to transfer it to the new sink, so i am pretty sure i already have that y pipe....

i think i have some plumbers putty, i will be putting some on there then.... it is actually my FILs plumbers putty, but, it's at my house so it's mine

jimbo74 · « **Reply #609 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 01:38:40 PM »

ok, so.... got the old one pulled.... need to get some new clips to mount the new one, and some new valves, the ones it had, even turned off, let a bunch of water flow.... they were all corroded....

also... had a ?

why do you use plumbers putty, instead of silicon? i do have plumbers putty, so will be using that, but jsut wondering why

Stocker · « **Reply #610 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 01:57:24 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Mar 26, 2012, 01:38:40 PM

why do you use plumbers putty, instead of silicon?

Because I was told to!

Actually I think b/c it retains more stickiness and maybe a bit more 'give' if anything moves even very slightly. I have seen silicon separate from metal just enough to allow fluids to seep past it.

abnormaltoy · « **Reply #611 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 02:50:54 PM »

Quote from: Stocker on Mar 26, 2012, 01:57:24 PM

Because I was told to!

To me, some things just SCREAM

this was fixed by a hack. Silicone in plumbing in chief among those things. You could use silicone, you could tig it...if you want a seal that can be broken for future repair, use the putty.

Plus all the green weenies will

to you for using a green product...it wasn't meant to be green, just turned out that way...it's pretty much oil (linseed or fish) and clay or finely ground limestone.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #612 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 04:30:22 PM »

that's all good, jsut wanted to know why....

i was planning to use the plumber's putty anyway

when i did a bathroom sink, it said to use a bead of it on the inside of the drain.... it still hasn't leaked

got an issue now htough..... trying to track down the attaching clips, it had 2 of 12, is proving difficult

and, since my new sink is deeper, i thought jsut add some length to the p trap... well the guy at ace said if it is 2" lower, it wont drain right because of where the drain is in the wall, is it that big of a deal? or fine? the new sink looks to be liek 2" deeper than the old sink, so i need the p trap to go 2" lower

jimbo74 · « **Reply #613 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 09:55:53 PM »

here is a pic of the issue. the new sink on the right, will require the drain on the disposal to be lower than the drain in the wall, will this cause a backflow problem like the guy at the hardware store suggested? or will i be fine?

the part that is pink is what would need to be added in to make it work, but that also puts the disposal on the drain at a lower plane than the disposal's outlet

abnormaltoy · « **Reply #614 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 11:01:32 PM »

One rule of plumbing is...water doesn't run uphill. I don't think you'll get back flow in your second drawing (because water doesn't run uphill the other way either), you just won't drain the deeper sink (seems like a puddle will always be in the disposer) any lower than the blue line. The drain in the disposer needs to be higher than where it goes in the wall. The note you have is all wrong...the pink part won't make it work, it will only make the connections fit...there is a difference. I'd go in the wall and relo the drain connection. In case you didn't know...the only reason, afaik, for the p trap is to prevent sewer gases from entering the home, by storing a small amount of water to act as a break.

You hip to what I'm laying down here?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #615 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 11:06:42 PM »

yeah. that is the sad part.....

looks like i either need a shallower sink, a lower profile garbage disposal, or need to rip into the wall and lower the drain....

i think code is that it needs to be no less than 15" above the floor, but i am more than good on that

abnormaltoy · « **Reply #616 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 11:17:09 PM »

Deep sinks are handy...I'd rework the drain. Sheetrock is an easy fix. Cut out the wall, make a plan before cutting the pipe...it's easier that way.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #617 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 11:19:30 PM »

really not an option to lower the drain..... i would need to cut the wall, and then try and deal with soldering copper pipe..... not something i really want to deal with, nor do i have a torch anymore

abnormaltoy · « **Reply #618 on:** Mar 26, 2012, 11:40:02 PM »

Alright...good luck.

Stocker · « **Reply #619 on:** Mar 27, 2012, 12:28:50 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Mar 26, 2012, 11:19:30 PM

really not an option to lower the drain..... i would need to cut the wall, and then try and deal with soldering copper pipe..... not something i really want to deal with, nor do i have a torch anymore

I've been mulling this all morning..... It sounds like you prefer that deep sink (they really are much nicer IMO) and you're going to have a disposal. It also sounds like the wall drain pipe needs to be lower. Would you re-consider that option? You might be glad later on if you did it now, instead if wishing that you had.

Cutting the wall isn't a big deal, especially if the area is hidden by cabinetry (any imperfections won't be seen). Save the piece you remove so it can be re-used (it's a guaranteed perfect fit). I find patching plaster works better than spackling compound to blend things back together again.

You might be able to beg, borrow, or worst case -- buy -- a torch. If that's not feasible, hire a plumber. It's a small quick job and shouldn't cost much. You'll end up with what you really want, and in the long run you'll forget about the extra trouble it was.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #620 on:** Mar 27, 2012, 02:08:07 PM »

i think i might have found a way to do it!

the elbow on the disposal is quite long, i might be able to do rotate it, or cut it down an inch or 2, and still have the exit hole at the same level as the drain.......

we are also looking into other sinks and disposals at the moment.

i did find the clips that will work at lowes

the drain for the sink doesn't seem to sit properly in the bottom, so not sure about that, but we will see if a new flange doesn't help that, i jsut dont want it to end up being a little bit raised.....

Stocker · « **Reply #621 on:** Mar 27, 2012, 04:21:24 PM »

Hope that works for ya! The elbow on our disposal is PVC, easy to trim.... it only extends down a few inches, then turns & heads towards the sink drain. It has worked well that way for many years.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #622 on:** Mar 28, 2012, 01:43:46 AM »

the elbow coming out of the disposal is actually about 3" long, i might be able to cut it down, like an inch or 2, and it might work!

junya92toy · « **Reply #623 on:** Mar 28, 2012, 12:58:09 PM »

Use compression fittings too

jimbo74 · « **Reply #624 on:** Mar 31, 2012, 01:49:57 AM »

so, i got the sink mounted!!!!!!!

now i need to put the disposal back on and get the plumbing straightened out... here is the next issue i need help with....

where do i put the plumbers putty? there is the huge triangular flange thing for the garbage disposal.... from top to bottom, flange in sink, plumbers putty, then sink, then plumbers putty, then paper gasket or rubber? , then the clamping plate and all that of the disposal?

does that sound right?

abnormaltoy · « **Reply #625 on:** Mar 31, 2012, 08:08:52 AM »

One picture is a view of the whole shebang...the close up actually was nice enough to point out exactly where the putty goes.

The "support ring" points at some putty oozing in from the top side (the part of the sink you use), the putty goes on the top side of the mounting hole...the the sink flange will be set in, as you tighten it...some will squeeze out.

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #626 on:** Mar 31, 2012, 10:38:53 AM »

that pic is from the rear,

jimbo74 · « **Reply #627 on:** Mar 31, 2012, 07:25:48 PM »

new sink and faucet in.... no leaks

had to do a little custom plumbing, but still ok

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #628 on:** Mar 31, 2012, 07:35:52 PM »

omg that little sink is packed

abnormaltoy · « **Reply #629 on:** Mar 31, 2012, 08:13:08 PM »

Quote from: 86bobbedtoy on Mar 31, 2012, 07:35:52 PM

omg that little sink is packed

Like (the real, the original) James Bond's Aston Martin...the sink has rocket launchers, smoke screens...what about an ejector seat(?)

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