Author Topic: worn valve guide  (Read 4683 times)

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jrg id

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worn valve guide
« on: Nov 11, 2006, 11:30:25 PM »
does anyone here know the proper way to remove the valve guides from the head.  :confused:.i,m trying to rebuild my head on the cheap everything checks out good but i have worn guides  so i figured i would remove them and do a little port work and put in new guides . any info would be greatly appreciated  :thumbs:

Willy Mammoth

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #1 on: Nov 12, 2006, 08:18:54 AM »
They press in. You can use a air hammer with a shouldered bit to drive them out.

There is a ring clip on the guid that keeps it from sliding down too far, so you drive it from the seat side out the top.

Then the same going back in. Just don't keep hitting it after it is seated or you will break the guide where the clip is.

You will need to dress the valve seat after so the valve will seal.
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jrg id [OP]

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #2 on: Nov 12, 2006, 11:18:23 AM »
 :gap: thank you very much it sounds like a plan

Marlin

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #3 on: Nov 13, 2006, 10:13:50 PM »
Way to go Mrs Willy Mammoth.
Heating up the head in a barbecue will help the guides drive out easier.
Also, you should use an air hammer and a 8mm valve guide driver or you could damage the guide.
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

jimbo74

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #4 on: Nov 13, 2006, 10:21:57 PM »
i think Mark posted, not mrswillymammoth






edit  :smack: note to self, modify and reply are not one and the same.  :rofl2:
sorry Jim, Mark
« Last Edit: Nov 14, 2006, 04:45:07 AM by Willy Mammoth »
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kneedownnate

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #5 on: Nov 13, 2006, 10:27:53 PM »
I was kinda wondering about doing my guides myself too, but it's probably one of the things you'd be better off having somebody else do.  Proper tools will go a long way toward getting a job done properly and quickly. 
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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #6 on: Nov 14, 2006, 04:24:18 AM »
Way to go Mrs Willy Mammoth.

i think Mark posted, not mrswillymammoth



That's what he ment to type, but he has big fingers and accidently hit the S and R key at the same time in the rush to post taking time out of his busy day.  :ha_ha:


Thanks Marlin for being there when we've needed you.  :bowdown:

Hope the see you again some day.  :thumbs:
« Last Edit: Nov 14, 2006, 04:31:02 AM by Willy Mammoth »
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Hyena

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #7 on: Nov 14, 2006, 05:16:08 PM »
or a small propane torche will help to heat it up too.  becarefull because they can go shooting out at a good rate of speed.

Marlin

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Re: worn valve guide
« Reply #8 on: Nov 14, 2006, 10:50:24 PM »
Sorry for the oversight Mark, and your help again on this board.

I use a Goodson air hammer valve guide tool that has a 2 degree angle on the surface that contacts the end of the guide to help prevent distortion.
I also use a Mac air hammer that has a high blow count to help install the guide smoothly.

You may also need a .315 guide reamer as required.
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

 
 
 
 
 

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