Author Topic: Knock sensor.  (Read 1718 times)

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Tice

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Knock sensor.
« on: Sep 18, 2006, 07:50:57 PM »
So I was thinking about this today mainly because I don't have one on my engine. The EFI set-up is from an 87 runner. I thinking it is suppose to have one. Right? Partsamerica's site show one availible for an 87.  If so what's the bad side of not running one?
I don't need a winch, I wheel a TOYOTA!!!!!!!


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Marlin

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Re: Knock sensor.
« Reply #1 on: Sep 18, 2006, 10:07:49 PM »
Check engine light will come on, and the computer will be unable to adjust the timing as required. You will experience a power loss and poor fuel mileage.

The sensor is located above and in front of the starter.
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

Tice [OP]

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Re: Knock sensor.
« Reply #2 on: Sep 19, 2006, 03:37:09 PM »
Thanks Marlin. I did some searching in the manual and it does show one. I do have a serious lack of power too. Guess I will be on a quest to find one. :thumbs:
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Tice [OP]

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Re: Knock sensor.
« Reply #3 on: Sep 19, 2006, 07:09:20 PM »
Ok so I found a sensor, in my tool box of all places, I knew I had one. Now this is my problem, My motor is from an 84 and it doen't ahve a "port" for the sensor on the block, I know where it's suppose to go. How can I attach this to the block to make it work? I've thought about welding a Bung or nut but welding to cast is tricky and I really don't want to weld to the block anyhow. Also, can someone snap a pic of theirs? I want to make sure I have the right wire for it as well. Of all the left over wires after the EFI swap none have the right plug. Though the one I suspect to be right has no plug at all.  I really don't drive this on the road alot, but if this is the main reason why I have no power then I'd like to remedy it.  I really close to going propane but with EFI theres really no good reason to me. Any and all help is greatly appreatated. :beerchug:
I don't need a winch, I wheel a TOYOTA!!!!!!!


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Marlin

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Re: Knock sensor.
« Reply #4 on: Sep 20, 2006, 10:17:38 PM »
Got your answer right here :driving:

Remove the rear top passenger side motor mount bolt and weld a 12 x 1.25 mm nut on the top of the 14mm head of the 10 x 1.25 mm motor mount bolt. Reinstall the bolt using a 17 mm socket, and then bolt on the knock sensor. The wire will simply plug into the sensor without making it longer.

I have done this many times with perfect sucess.
« Last Edit: Sep 20, 2006, 10:26:06 PM by Marlin »
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

 
 
 
 
 

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