Topic: Front Axle Seal Replacement

[Zamdrang]

Ive got a few questions on the front axle.   Its the one area I havent torn into....yet... . 

Do you have to take the knuckle completely apart to change the front axle oil seal?    Mine leak 90w slowly...so its probably turned my knuckle grease into mush....so I was gonna just tear the whole thing apart and redo it knuckle and all. 
 
But I was looking at the diagrams and it looks like maybe    you could get to it without tearing the knuckle down completely......and then just repack some fresh grease in there.....am I missing something?  Waste of time not to do them as long as im there? 

If I do the knuckles:  Do you normally need new studs all the way around?   

Also, what about the brass bushing....does it need replaced often?  I dont even see it in my factory manual diagram......

[Willy Mammoth]

You don't have to take it completely apart. Once you have the axle out you can get to it, BUT like you said you may want to go further and tear the complete assy apart and inspect it.

I would recommend the knuckle rebuild kits.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/axles.htm





On the studs, I am going to say no, unless you are having a problem with them.

The bushing are most often in good shape. Check for play and scoring.

Remmember if grease is leaking out, water and dirt could be getting in.


BTW 

[CTENG in KS]

Will Mammoth is ta smart...listen to him.

[Willy Mammoth]

Will Mammoth is ta smart...listen to him.

Aww shucks, thanks Cteng, Just trying to help a fellow wheeler.

Nobody gets left behind.

[Zamdrang [OP]]

Thanks guys....

[johnny_boy02]

I would rebuild it. I just did one for the first time a few weeks ago, its really not that bad. Have lots of paper towls or rags handy.

[synwars]

If you want to just replace the oil seal for now, and rebuild later you can take the knuckle off using the modified Camo method.

Camo Method.

Usually you can get the whole knuckle off by taking the top steering knuckle off and then rotate the whole knuckle away and down from the axle. While you got your knuckle, hub, and axle out, clean out the old grease, repack with new grease. Change inner seal. Bolt back together. Good to go.

[Zamdrang [OP]]

Cool, sounds like what I may do......

[ZukIzzy]

If you don't wanna replace the felts and rings, I usually do the following.

Remove outer hub select 2wd makes it a bit easier to pull out.
remove snap ring from axle
remove nuts from hub. hit the hub with a hammer right at the cone washer. Search around for an hour trying to find that first cone washer. then cover them with a rag so as not to lose any more .
Pull off the locking hub.
this is a good time to take off the brake line and remove the caliper. there are 2 bolts that take a 17mm to remove on the back of the knuckle. set it aside and cap the leaking brake line with a vacuum cap. it helps if you use a screw driver o separate the pads a bit before you remove the caliper, makes life easy upon reassembly.
bend the locking ring straight on the spindle nut.
Remove outer spindle nut,, use the right socket or A screw drive and hammer in a pinch
remove inner spindle nut.
pull the rotor/hub assembly off, the outer wheel bearing is gonna fall off into the dirt try to not let this happen
remove the bolts that hold the spindle on.
pull the spindle off and set it aside
remove the dust shield.
Rotate the axle so the flats line up with the king pin bearings and pull it out.
Now you can See the seal remove it with a seal puller or a crows foot pry bar works well

Now repeat the steps back wards and  you are done with that side.

Of coarse you should clean and inspect all parts, replace needed stuff and repack birfs and bearings with high temp grease. But this will get the job done.

I have done the remove whole knuckle thing before too but I prefer to use this one cause I hate the felts and rings. they usually break and need to be relpaced if I mess with em.

If you can get the rebuild kit and do it all. you won't have to do it again for a while if you do.

Wayne