Author Topic: Burny's.... slow burnin build (Read 22584 times)

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #30 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 06:11:37 AM »

uh why, if you want more room between the tires and frame then get a 86+ rear axle so you have a touch wider stance

4runner freak · « **Reply #31 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 07:31:28 AM »

[Thread Hijack]
I've got a question for you Burn,
How much rise are in those 4x4lab arms (from top of mounting point to top of arm)?
I designed a similar set of arms and am milling them right now, but I've never seen 4x4labs arms in person before and I was just wondering if how much rise they put behind the axle.
Thanks
[/Thread Hijack]

synwars · « **Reply #32 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 07:53:16 AM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Feb 16, 2006, 06:11:37 AM

uh why, if you want more room between the tires and frame then get a 86+ rear axle so you have a touch wider stance

Because it would be the same as inboarding your springs for better flex, and would solve clearance issues at the same time. Then it would make it possible to add shocks on the outside of the frame, like the front, making it real stable.

I was thinking of doing the same deal. Chop the frame a couple inches past the cab. Narrow the rear section to the same width as the front. Span a 2x4 square tubing across the frame stubbies behind the cab. Measure and weld the rear section back up as close to center as possible. Cut the middle section of the square tubing so its flush. Use that square tubing to gusset it, inside and outside of the narrowed rail. Cut your spring perches and weld new ones to new specs.

You'd have to of course scrap the box and build a flat bed. And mount the gas tank up top. Reroute the brake lines & gas lines. Not too much work. Definitely possible...

Am I totally out to lunch?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #33 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 08:57:41 AM »

Quote from: synwars on Feb 16, 2006, 07:53:16 AM

Because it would be the same as inboarding your springs for better flex, and would solve clearance issues at the same time. Then it would make it possible to add shocks on the outside of the frame, like the front, making it real stable.

I was thinking of doing the same deal. Chop the frame a couple inches past the cab. Narrow the rear section to the same width as the front. Span a 2x4 square tubing across the frame stubbies behind the cab. Measure and weld the rear section back up as close to center as possible. Cut the middle section of the square tubing so its flush. Use that square tubing to gusset it, inside and outside of the narrowed rail. Cut your spring perches and weld new ones to new specs.

You'd have to of course scrap the box and build a flat bed. And mount the gas tank up top. Reroute the brake lines & gas lines. Not too much work. Definitely possible...

Am I totally out to lunch?

your avatar totally cracks me up

synwars · « **Reply #34 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 09:16:58 AM »

Yeah, I laughed my behind off when i first saw it. It's pretty good.

burnyota · « **Reply #35 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 10:07:04 AM »

Quote from: synwars on Feb 16, 2006, 09:16:58 AM

Yeah, I laughed my behind off when i first saw it. It's pretty good.

same here..funny stuff.

Quote from: synwars on Feb 16, 2006, 07:53:16 AM

Because it would be the same as inboarding your springs for better flex, and would solve clearance issues at the same time. Then it would make it possible to add shocks on the outside of the frame, like the front, making it real stable.

I was thinking of doing the same deal. Chop the frame a couple inches past the cab. Narrow the rear section to the same width as the front. Span a 2x4 square tubing across the frame stubbies behind the cab. Measure and weld the rear section back up as close to center as possible. Cut the middle section of the square tubing so its flush. Use that square tubing to gusset it, inside and outside of the narrowed rail. Cut your spring perches and weld new ones to new specs.

You'd have to of course scrap the box and build a flat bed. And mount the gas tank up top. Reroute the brake lines & gas lines. Not too much work. Definitely possible...

Am I totally out to lunch?

no, not at all. I think that we are on the same page as far as the reasoning behind narrowing the frame. I don't want to just buy a wider toy housing and drop it in. That kinda defeats the purpose, although is will give you a better and wider stance. I am going to set everything up to narrow it, but I am not going to chop the frame completly off behind the cab. My plans are to actually cut and notch the frame and bend it inwards and then weld it out, rather than cutting the frame off and doing something like that. I am sure that I have the ability to do this. I will be inboarding the 63in chevy's and will more than likely run the shocks outboard of the frame, like the marlin buggy. Saw the marlin rig at Gilmer and took lots of pics of the rear susspension. Looking for about 2-2.5 in on each side. I am alson going to cut off the crossmember on the back half of the frame rather than cutting them down and welding em up..not sure what size steel i am going to use, but i should have pics up by tonight of the plan. I am not going to go with a flatbed, I need the pickup bed fo all those chicks who dig body damage-

synwars · « **Reply #36 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 12:29:02 PM »

Ya, I wouldn't keep the stock cross members. I would just use them initially to keep everything square. After its all welded in I'd replace it with 2x4 & 2x3 square. I would want to keep the frame as sturdy as possible to prevent it from twisting. The only thing I want cycling is the suspension.

How are you planning on mounting the box then? Thats a god aweful amount of time to change all the mounts on the box. Keep the tank in the box?

Do-able. Just wondering.

I was thinking of notching the frame and bend it in like you say, but I just had doubts that it would be strong enough. How would you gusset it to strengthen it? I was thinking it would be tough. Thats why I figured if you chopped it, it would be easier to work with and weld up while off the frame, easier to keep things even and nice and square, and make room to gusset the hell out of it. You could even fish plate it top and bottom if you so desired to (as well as on each side). Here is what I was thinking: (Sorry for the crap Windows Paint editing...)

Blue is welding, Green is square tubing, Red = cuts.

synwars · « **Reply #37 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 05:44:35 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Feb 16, 2006, 06:11:37 AM

uh why, if you want more room between the tires and frame then get a 86+ rear axle so you have a touch wider stance

Only all the kids with SAS's and bobbed beds are getting the 86+ axles just because everyone else is doing it... you know, so they don't rub their tires on their frame rails when they go down the fireroad to do that poser shot on a tree stump.

Glen

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #38 on:** Feb 16, 2006, 05:46:57 PM »

yup

burnyota · « **Reply #39 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 05:36:29 PM »

Quote from: synwars on Feb 16, 2006, 05:44:35 PM

Only all the kids with SAS's and bobbed beds are getting the 86+ axles just because everyone else is doing it... you know, so they don't rub their tires on their frame rails when they go down the fireroad to do that poser shot on a tree stump. Glen

good for them being posers

what is wrong with a better departure angle?or approach angle for goin up something backwards if you cant make it going fowards? I have beat the crap out of my bed and dont really want to bob it, its an easy job and everyone driving a toyota is going that route. Slimming down the frame is what i am going to do and the benefits from doing so will be greater than hacking up an allready banged up bed, plus it will be a tougher job with getting everthing square. I am going to notch it at ? degrees and get my ? angle and bend it in, then do the same going back straight and it should work just fine..it would b easier to do what syn suggested in his pics, but that is to easy. I have a plan for mounting the bed, but aint going to give that away. I am running propane, so i dont have to worry about the gas tank. I have my stands allready for keeping the frame square and stable and will get some pics when i get a chance. Been busy at school welding and today we had hs kids in for welding competition...been crazy lately and got state weldin comp comming up soon, so I have been practicing my arse off

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #40 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 05:49:30 PM »

oh man that brings back some wild memories

welding competition oh the party we had that night

synwars · « **Reply #41 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 06:14:41 PM »

Ya man sounds like a hoot!!!

I wasn't dissing the idea, just trying to get the mental juices flowing.

Really, all I'm sayin' is that if you want to bend a piece of straight steel, kink it first. Fish plating your bends would be a good idea, giving it some added stability and strength.

Whatever the case, GIVER MAN! Take lots of pics. I plan on doing along the same lines as you so keep us updated as you go.

I'll be following this one for sure matey!

burnyota · « **Reply #42 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 07:47:57 PM »

yup, should be fun..the state comp is in San Antonio, where swamper is and i used to live

thats cool that we are doing the same thing synwars, keep me posted on what your doing. I will plate the bends (more than likely) and looking at doing 22.5deg to get my 45's

burnyota · « **Reply #43 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 07:53:59 PM »

got my LC parts in today--they look sweet!!!

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #44 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 07:57:29 PM »

burnyota · « **Reply #45 on:** Feb 17, 2006, 10:12:36 PM »

wtf? glen that thingy is

synwars · « **Reply #46 on:** Feb 18, 2006, 12:58:35 PM »

Copying BAST!!!

Just kidding...

Haha, it's the new smilie. BIG MIKE, ADD IT IN!!!

burnyota · « **Reply #47 on:** Feb 18, 2006, 01:12:49 PM »

syn, got some pics of yur truck? and have you started on yer narrowing?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 18, 2006, 04:08:24 PM »

Ryan we need pics of your goodies

the LCEngineering stuff you pervert

burnyota · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 18, 2006, 05:24:55 PM »

unfortunatly didn't have time for pics before they went to the machine shop in Houston, but i got this:

burnyota · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 18, 2006, 05:36:05 PM »

4x4 labs steering arms have about 2in of rise to the arms and clear the springs no problem..i like the 1ton ends over the fj 80 cause they seem easier to find
the first set of arms i got didn't have enough lift in them, and Luke sent me another pair and recieved them before i even sent mine back, nice guy, and good work
they give me a killer turning radius

burnyota · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 18, 2006, 05:48:29 PM »

Quote from: 4runner freak on Feb 16, 2006, 07:31:28 AM

[Thread Hijack]
I've got a question for you Burn,
How much rise are in those 4x4lab arms (from top of mounting point to top of arm)?
I designed a similar set of arms and am milling them right now, but I've never seen 4x4labs arms in person before and I was just wondering if how much rise they put behind the axle.
Thanks
[/Thread Hijack]

anwser to your q above

synwars · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 20, 2006, 09:09:42 AM »

Quote from: burnyota on Feb 17, 2006, 07:47:57 PM

thats cool that we are doing the same thing synwars, keep me posted on what your doing. I will plate the bends (more than likely) and looking at doing 22.5deg to get my 45's

Quote from: burnyota on Feb 18, 2006, 01:12:49 PM

syn, got some pics of yur truck? and have you started on yer narrowing?

I have a build up thread here: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11425.0

I haven't started narrowing yet, just got engaged on the weekend

, but I'm gonna be building pretty quick. Just waiting for some parts from the UPS guy, and I'll be on my way. I'm going to be re-doing my suspension: Some mods to the front, major mods in the rear. Icing on the cake will be hydro-assist.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 20, 2006, 12:05:08 PM »

why does everybody want hydro assist

synwars · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 20, 2006, 01:02:13 PM »

Because it is cheap, easy, and give you more control when crawling up the side of boulders. Plus the extra volume, longer lines, and cooler will keep the system running not so hot, especially when welded up front. This means longer life on a pump too!

Plus, street legal, utilizes stock steering box and high steer if you do it the freds40 way. Other hydro kits force you to swap your box for a Saginaw. Bling Bling anyone?

The only bad thing I can think of with it is maintainance requires changing of lines every three years. And it adds one more link that can break down, such as snaging a line etc. Not like its a new worry though, you've got to be careful not to snag your brake lines either!

Simple fix really...

Just be sure to carry with you a couple NPT plugs, no biggy.

burnyota · « **Reply #55 on:** Feb 20, 2006, 08:57:05 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Feb 20, 2006, 12:05:08 PM

why does everybody want hydro assist

cause its so much better! and sweet steering big tires w/your pinky

but it aint cheep

here are some updated pics, not to much, but got some grinding and cutting done

synwars · « **Reply #56 on:** Feb 21, 2006, 12:00:06 PM »

Git on it!

burnyota · « **Reply #57 on:** Feb 21, 2006, 03:35:00 PM »

get to work

found a pic of the truck..poser shot

burnyota · « **Reply #58 on:** Feb 21, 2006, 03:38:29 PM »

few more poser shots after phase II with 33's testing out the new suspension and then with 36's above on the rock..my yota has been down for over a year now and just got the cash saved for the engine, etc..so here are the old shots