Topic: external to internal regulated alternator conversion

[yotaweelr]

who knows how to wire it up. I have a 81 truck, and have a 85 alternator to instal. the alternator and bracket are in the truck. But I am stuck on wireing, besides of course the charge wire. I looked through 17 pages on pirate and got the same old smart asses with "just wire it up and your done... or, the brackets need to be changed" or, some just with no replies or help.

[yotaweelr [OP]]

ok I cut back the sheilding around the harness. red to red black to black, white to white and yellows together and into the new alternator harness. the 2 yellows, one comes out of the harness to the regulator, one comes out of the harness to the external alternator get put together. the green and the white with black stripe are cut out of the mix completely and removed with the 2 connectors you will not need anymore. easy as it sounds.

[kneedownnate]

So just to clarify, you have an 81 that stock had an externally regulated alt and you want to replace it with an internally regulated alt? 79coyotefrg has an internally regulated alt as a second on his truck to back up the first.

[yotaweelr [OP]]

I already got it coverted. all is perfect except my charge relay is bad, and I have to kick it to click on and if I bump it it turns off. I just kick it till the light turns off on the cluster lol. if it becomes to big a problem I will hard wire it to get home. going for some snow wheeling tomorrow. just got done rebuilding the front axle, changing all my power steering stuff, converting the alternator, installed a turbo 3 core radiator and welded up a front 4.88 third. I just need to install my mirrors and go.

[yotaweelr [OP]]

ok I give up on toyota alternator parts, I am installing a gm 1 wire tomorrow. made it through my wheeling trip and back down the hill, and I think half way back from fordyce, or closer to home I started loosing charge. I got back with 10.6 volts. I checked my charge lamo relay, 2 prongs were broke loose inside, soldered them and no better. the 84 copmressoer bracket, some 1/2 tube and a 6 1/2 long 3/8 bolt will start my conversion. then a complete toyota charging system bypass, and a aftermarket voltage gauge install.

[Duffil]

why use the AC bracket? make one out of plate and it'll go where the stock one did. that's how I did mine.

sorry for the

[yotaweelr [OP]]

cuase the bracket is already there from a nother truck I got the motor from. and with a 1/4" spacer to move it back, and maybe a long powersteeribng belt it may go with no issues, why make it hard on myself. the chebby alternator I have, used to be mounted to a smog pump bracket and was used in a 80 toyota 4x4 that i bought 2 years ago. the truck i could not smog and parted out, and kept this stuff.

[YotaSoul]

Anyone interested in this conversion here's the info I was given:
Use the original, hot wire(10 or 12 guage) that bolts onto the post.  Bolt it onto the new alt post.  On the back of your new alternator is a plug.  It will be 2 or 3 wires.  There should be an "S" terminal and an "I" terminal.  Jump the "s" over to the "I", and then run the "I" to an ignition source; There should be one going to your old external regulator, if you can't find it or have removed it, you can tap a source such as windshield wiper power.  Make sure to use a diode in your ignition feed.  You want this feed to go to alternator, not towards the ignition.  This will make sure that when you turn the truck 0ff, the alternator will not stay on and kill your battery.  That's all there is to it.

[Oddmar]

Ok, here's what i did on a friend's Toyota 4x4, i end up working on all my friend's Toy's.



I borrowed this pic from a web page i'd saved detailing the conversion of an internally-regulated GM alternator to an on-board welder. Since i'm putting a 7,200 watt generator in my Toy and running a Hobart 180amp MIG welder, i took the alternator off my truck and installed it in his.

Unplug the connector from the back of your stock alternator. Using a 12VDC test light, determine which terminal of the connector becomes hot with the ignition on...this is the wire you will run to the terminal you see the red wire going to in the pic.

The other terminal is the battery condition sensing one. To keep your alternator from overcharging your battery, run a wire from this terminal to the hot post on your battery. This allows the regulator inside the GM alternator to sense the battery state and adjust the amount of amperage output to keep from killing your battery.

Obviously the heavy red wire should go right to the positive post of the battery, and if you wanna be redundant you can run a heavy ground wire to the grounding post on the alternator too.

No diodes or resistors or other junk are required for this conversion, although i did have to fabricate a new bracket and buy a longer belt. I also had to weld an extension into the belt-tensioning bracket. Be careful when building your lower mounting bracket...mine limited the tensioning travel of the alternator...almost too much.

If you do a search you may find a way to use an inexpensive GM ignition module if your $300.00 Toyota one fails...the secret to that is put a computer heat sink and 12VDC fan on it, to keep it from burning up.

Hope this helps you out.

Oddmar
PointBlank Fabrication
Pekin, Illinois
309-202-1682