Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread  (Read 695013 times)

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MikeBoyle

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Still having issues communicating with the ECU. I have tried multiple scan tools, triple checked every wire, confirmed all grounds are good, replaced the ECU and looked at wiring diagrams until I can see them in my sleep. I just can't figure it out.

The engine side of the harness is 100% original (other than extending the wires for the rear O2 sensor). Engine is a dual coil from a 98. The only connectors I modified are as follows:

1K2 #6 Ground to #5 pin on D7 (data link)
#8 12v ignition
#16 12v ignition

E5 #2 12v Battery
#4 Check engine light
#8 Speed sensor
#12 12v ignition
#19 SIL to #7 pin on D7
#22 12v ignition

D7 #4 Ground
#5 Ground pin #6 1K2
#7 SIL from #19 on E5
#16 12v Battery

I am not running any "factory" gauges and have the fuel pump controlled on its own circuit outside of the ECU. I want to run an ELM327 to a cheap Android phone to monitor the coolant temp, voltage and tach, therefore I really want to figure out why I have no communication with the ECU. I have pretty much eliminated everything I can think of with no success. The truck will start and run fine. It does have a slight stumble off idle but I think it has more to do with the lack of any stored data in the ECU than anything else. I'd know more if I could monitor the data. Does anyone have any idea what I am overlooking?

MikeBoyle

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what is your pinout for the obd plug itself?

if you were using my diagram for the obd ll plug, I had made a mistake and wrote pin 6 for 12v instead of pin 16.

D7 #4 Ground
#5 Ground pin #6 1K2
#7 SIL from #19 on E5
#16 12v Battery

MikeBoyle

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4 is grounded to the chassis. I have checked it as well as used a jumper on it (jumper directly to battery ground) and had no change. I have also tried adding a jumper from the ground point for 5 (front of intake) directly to the battery ground with no luck. I know it has to be something simple that I am either overlooking or is missing, I just can't figure it out.

MikeBoyle

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Try connecting SIL wire to pin #2 instead of #7 on the OBD to see if that changes anything

I will try that.

One other thing I was thinking of trying (after researching all afternoon) but ran out of time (I'm at work now) was switching the SIL wire to #15. From what I found the 98 uses ISO9141-2 protocol for data communication. According to the info I've found, the OBD port has two ports that were dedicated for that protocol. Pin #7 and pin #15. I'll try #2 and #15 tomorrow and see if either make any difference.

swilson

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Still having issues communicating with the ECU.

. Does anyone have any idea what I am overlooking?

I had a similar issue.  IIRC mine turned out to be an mis-pinned ground or +12V at my OBDII connector.  Good luck
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner - Click for Build thread
1964 FJ40 TBD

MikeBoyle

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Tried moving the data line to pin #2 (and every other open pin in the plug) with no change. Repined grounds and ran them directly to chassis ground. No help. With the grounds unhooked, the scan tool will not turn on, so I know the ground is good once connected. This leaves the data line as the only thing I can suspect. When I back probe the line with a Power Probe (KOEO) I do get a varying voltage signal which tells me there should be data on the line. The only thing I am unsure of at this point is the fact that the data line is not shielded. I talked with a couple engine tuners before I built the harness and they said that it shouldn't be necessary to run a shielded line providing I'm not running stereo or high amp wiring near the data line. I have no stereo and there is nothing near the harness that should be interfering with the data. I guess my next move will be to figure out where to find 3-4 ft. of single line shielded cable.

87SR5

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Finally got back to finishing my swap.  Noticed Toyonlyswaps now offers an oil pan for IFS (as mentioned above), fits nicely.
Also using their motor mounts since the Chilkat ones didnt work out at all.


Wow. 👍 for 3rz swap in ifs set up. I'm also doing 3rz swap for my 87 ifs. Is there more pic's on your swap? How did you route your exhaust? It seems almost impossible to clear the torsion bar.

lc_nut

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i'm a new member here, but I've been on mud for awhile....

I'm putting a 3rz in an 87 4runner (with an fj80 drive train swap).
I had a question about oil pans.

I'm using a 2tr pan. I just wondered if anyone else has, and if they had issues in the truck.
thanks-

well... thanks for all the replies. lol.
it will fit just fine. plenty of clearance for the diff.
« Last Edit: Sep 28, 2019, 10:23:54 PM by lc_nut »

bigwill837

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This thread is awesome.

natdog73

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 :disturbed:I have a 94 ext,cab 4x4 that I am swapping out the 22re for a 2001 3rz. I have the Chilkat motor mounts, new bellhousing, ORS complete wire harness, pretty much everything I need but the oil pan is an issue. I've ordered a pan out of 95 -04 tacoma or 95-00 4runner. It looks like it will fit over the front end. Please tell me that this will fit. this is the only thing holding me up on dropping this thing into my truck.

redneckcustoms13

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Is your truck still ifs? If so you will need a t100 pan but cut and modified to clear the diff. Chilkat was making them. Toyonlyswaps may as well.
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
01 double cab hunting truck
06 tacoma street truck

boomtacoma01

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So Iím finally getting around to doing my swap. Have an 01 2rz that was an auto from a 2wd. It didnít come with an ECM. Should I run a manual ecm or an auto? Mine is a bit different as it was originally a 5 speed that was converted to an auto (A340f and Atlas 2) I manually control the shifting of the auto with the RadDesigns Baja shifter. I e already converted it to a rear sump pan and got a set of motor mounts from Toy Only Swaps. Iím also going to turbo it while Iím building it on the stand. So the main question is do I need to get an auto or manual ECU for the conversion?
85 Ext Cab 22RE, 3 Linked front D60, 14B, Full Hydro and 40s
IG @boomtacoma01

BUDDERS

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If you're going turbo, I'd run a stand alone harness with a Haltech ECU.  You are never going to get the power out of that turbo like you are hoping for with a stock ecu.  Also, plan on bigger injectors, higher volume fuel pump and a manually adjusting pressure regulator.  Look up SNP Speed Innovations in Lake Havasu City, AZ.  Gabe Salazar will point you in the right direction and I'm sure if you want him to, he'll wire the whole thing up for you.  He use to work for LC Engineering and has now opened his own shop.
"A friend will help you move.  A real friend will help you move a body."

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"Hopefully, if I crap in a gopher hole, one doesn't try and nibble at my taint"  - my freind Fat Tony

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boomtacoma01

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Aftermarket ECU will be down the road for sure. I have a Turbosmart FPR800 and a Walbro 255 fuel pump going on along with all the other goodies. Only planning on 8-10 psi on the first go round. Stock ecm should run it ok to begin with. There will definitely be upgrades down the road. Should I run a manual or Auto Ecm. Have the rest figured out for the most part.
85 Ext Cab 22RE, 3 Linked front D60, 14B, Full Hydro and 40s
IG @boomtacoma01

 
 
 
 
 

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