Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 896763 times)

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1500 on:** Sep 02, 2019, 01:22:57 PM »

Still having issues communicating with the ECU. I have tried multiple scan tools, triple checked every wire, confirmed all grounds are good, replaced the ECU and looked at wiring diagrams until I can see them in my sleep. I just can't figure it out.

The engine side of the harness is 100% original (other than extending the wires for the rear O2 sensor). Engine is a dual coil from a 98. The only connectors I modified are as follows:

1K2 #6 Ground to #5 pin on D7 (data link)
#8 12v ignition
#16 12v ignition

E5 #2 12v Battery
#4 Check engine light
#8 Speed sensor
#12 12v ignition
#19 SIL to #7 pin on D7
#22 12v ignition

D7 #4 Ground
#5 Ground pin #6 1K2
#7 SIL from #19 on E5
#16 12v Battery

I am not running any "factory" gauges and have the fuel pump controlled on its own circuit outside of the ECU. I want to run an ELM327 to a cheap Android phone to monitor the coolant temp, voltage and tach, therefore I really want to figure out why I have no communication with the ECU. I have pretty much eliminated everything I can think of with no success. The truck will start and run fine. It does have a slight stumble off idle but I think it has more to do with the lack of any stored data in the ECU than anything else. I'd know more if I could monitor the data. Does anyone have any idea what I am overlooking?

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1501 on:** Sep 02, 2019, 03:12:47 PM »

Quote from: liveoak on Sep 02, 2019, 01:47:36 PM

what is your pinout for the obd plug itself?

if you were using my diagram for the obd ll plug, I had made a mistake and wrote pin 6 for 12v instead of pin 16.

D7 #4 Ground
#5 Ground pin #6 1K2
#7 SIL from #19 on E5
#16 12v Battery

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1502 on:** Sep 02, 2019, 04:30:30 PM »

4 is grounded to the chassis. I have checked it as well as used a jumper on it (jumper directly to battery ground) and had no change. I have also tried adding a jumper from the ground point for 5 (front of intake) directly to the battery ground with no luck. I know it has to be something simple that I am either overlooking or is missing, I just can't figure it out.

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1503 on:** Sep 02, 2019, 06:01:25 PM »

Quote from: liveoak on Sep 02, 2019, 05:11:17 PM

Try connecting SIL wire to pin #2 instead of #7 on the OBD to see if that changes anything

I will try that.

One other thing I was thinking of trying (after researching all afternoon) but ran out of time (I'm at work now) was switching the SIL wire to #15. From what I found the 98 uses ISO9141-2 protocol for data communication. According to the info I've found, the OBD port has two ports that were dedicated for that protocol. Pin #7 and pin #15. I'll try #2 and #15 tomorrow and see if either make any difference.

swilson · « **Reply #1504 on:** Sep 02, 2019, 10:33:44 PM »

Quote from: MikeBoyle on Sep 02, 2019, 01:22:57 PM

Still having issues communicating with the ECU.

. Does anyone have any idea what I am overlooking?

I had a similar issue. IIRC mine turned out to be an mis-pinned ground or +12V at my OBDII connector. Good luck

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #1505 on:** Sep 03, 2019, 02:34:20 PM »

Tried moving the data line to pin #2 (and every other open pin in the plug) with no change. Repined grounds and ran them directly to chassis ground. No help. With the grounds unhooked, the scan tool will not turn on, so I know the ground is good once connected. This leaves the data line as the only thing I can suspect. When I back probe the line with a Power Probe (KOEO) I do get a varying voltage signal which tells me there should be data on the line. The only thing I am unsure of at this point is the fact that the data line is not shielded. I talked with a couple engine tuners before I built the harness and they said that it shouldn't be necessary to run a shielded line providing I'm not running stereo or high amp wiring near the data line. I have no stereo and there is nothing near the harness that should be interfering with the data. I guess my next move will be to figure out where to find 3-4 ft. of single line shielded cable.

87SR5 · « **Reply #1506 on:** Sep 09, 2019, 10:03:46 PM »

Quote from: s13koop on Dec 17, 2018, 08:04:01 AM

Finally got back to finishing my swap. Noticed Toyonlyswaps now offers an oil pan for IFS (as mentioned above), fits nicely.
Also using their motor mounts since the Chilkat ones didnt work out at all.

Wow. 👍 for 3rz swap in ifs set up. I'm also doing 3rz swap for my 87 ifs. Is there more pic's on your swap? How did you route your exhaust? It seems almost impossible to clear the torsion bar.

lc_nut · « **Reply #1507 on:** Sep 15, 2019, 07:15:58 AM »

i'm a new member here, but I've been on mud for awhile....

I'm putting a 3rz in an 87 4runner (with an fj80 drive train swap).
I had a question about oil pans.

I'm using a 2tr pan. I just wondered if anyone else has, and if they had issues in the truck.
thanks-

well... thanks for all the replies. lol.
it will fit just fine. plenty of clearance for the diff.

bigwill837 · « **Reply #1508 on:** Sep 23, 2019, 11:59:41 AM »

This thread is awesome.

natdog73 · « **Reply #1509 on:** Aug 01, 2020, 08:37:44 PM »

:disturbed:I have a 94 ext,cab 4x4 that I am swapping out the 22re for a 2001 3rz. I have the Chilkat motor mounts, new bellhousing, ORS complete wire harness, pretty much everything I need but the oil pan is an issue. I've ordered a pan out of 95 -04 tacoma or 95-00 4runner. It looks like it will fit over the front end. Please tell me that this will fit. this is the only thing holding me up on dropping this thing into my truck.

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #1510 on:** Aug 03, 2020, 04:43:11 AM »

Is your truck still ifs? If so you will need a t100 pan but cut and modified to clear the diff. Chilkat was making them. Toyonlyswaps may as well.

boomtacoma01 · « **Reply #1511 on:** Nov 18, 2020, 10:08:08 PM »

So I’m finally getting around to doing my swap. Have an 01 2rz that was an auto from a 2wd. It didn’t come with an ECM. Should I run a manual ecm or an auto? Mine is a bit different as it was originally a 5 speed that was converted to an auto (A340f and Atlas 2) I manually control the shifting of the auto with the RadDesigns Baja shifter. I e already converted it to a rear sump pan and got a set of motor mounts from Toy Only Swaps. I’m also going to turbo it while I’m building it on the stand. So the main question is do I need to get an auto or manual ECU for the conversion?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #1512 on:** Nov 19, 2020, 10:41:23 AM »

If you're going turbo, I'd run a stand alone harness with a Haltech ECU. You are never going to get the power out of that turbo like you are hoping for with a stock ecu. Also, plan on bigger injectors, higher volume fuel pump and a manually adjusting pressure regulator. Look up SNP Speed Innovations in Lake Havasu City, AZ. Gabe Salazar will point you in the right direction and I'm sure if you want him to, he'll wire the whole thing up for you. He use to work for LC Engineering and has now opened his own shop.

boomtacoma01 · « **Reply #1513 on:** Nov 20, 2020, 12:47:59 PM »

Aftermarket ECU will be down the road for sure. I have a Turbosmart FPR800 and a Walbro 255 fuel pump going on along with all the other goodies. Only planning on 8-10 psi on the first go round. Stock ecm should run it ok to begin with. There will definitely be upgrades down the road. Should I run a manual or Auto Ecm. Have the rest figured out for the most part.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #1514 on:** Dec 10, 2020, 07:59:30 AM »

Auto ECU for auto trans. I know guys who have put a manual trans behind an engine that had an auto trans and just jumped the neutral safety switch to make the ECU think it's in neutral but they said it seems to affect the fuel mapping and power output of the engine. Since this isn't the way you are going, keep the auto ECU.

81srz-5 · « **Reply #1515 on:** Feb 15, 2021, 10:23:48 PM »

:laugh:Newbie here. I try to stay away from computers I’m slow to the forum game. I’ve done a dual coil 3rz swap. That’s still lacking a tach in an 1988 samurai I’m sure this is not the knowledge forum for that but now I’m in the middle of a 2rz turbo swap in an 81 sr5 rwd It’ll need the tach hooked up and figured out. I’ve been using tis. Toyota information system to look up all the correct wiring diagrams. This 2rz was a 02 I believe. But I had to track down harness and ecu. I’m getting a little scared to fire this thing up it seems like everyone mismatching is having issues. I bought a 02 engine. harness to figure out that 02-04 I believe has two ecu plugs on the engine harness not three. I talked to a guy at toy only swaps and had mentioned 01 had less emissions and 2rz had no egr. So I bought a 01 ecu manual 2rz. And I also have 3rz 01 dash harness I’ve been watching the diagrams keeping an eye on colors and what not. So far looks good. I tracked down an 01 quad coil harness. When I got it home I realized it was an auto engine harness. I’ve been taking out the auto wires. If anyone has dealt with mismatched parts let me know if you found problems I can fix before they arise. Who has a working tach in there 1st gen with an rz. Did you use a Dakota digital. Will a resister work ? I don’t want to smoke my tach just booking up wires. I’d love to post pics but I don’t see an option

Carolina82 · « **Reply #1516 on:** Feb 28, 2021, 08:55:04 AM »

I see toyonlyswaps has a oil pan and motor mount kit for a 3rz swap in a 1st gen ifs 4runner. Does anyone know if it can be done without a body lift? Also does anyone have and pics of how they ran the exhaust around the torsion bars?

OVRAROK · « **Reply #1517 on:** May 27, 2021, 11:52:40 AM »

Anyone running a hondata s300 on a 3rz...

Jarrett · « **Reply #1518 on:** May 04, 2023, 10:09:13 AM »

For those who have done and EGR delete, what did you do with the VSV valve? I have an EGR delete, the VSV valve is missing, and the plug for it has been cut off. Getting a P0446 code. Is there a resistor I can solder in to get the code to go away?

JBird988 · « **Reply #1519 on:** May 22, 2023, 04:33:45 PM »

Anyone have any experimentation on what worked good on valve seat angles and widths?

Pappy · « **Reply #1520 on:** Apr 16, 2024, 07:21:35 AM »

Time to resurrect this dinosaur thread. Final install of my 3RZ with just a few loose ends.

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