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Mine crosses underneath the bellhousing. I cut the flange off of the lead pipe and clocked it towards the driver side.. welded flange back on..
I used the pan from NW Team Yota. A few install tips tricks:1) You need to remove the drivers side transmission support "wing" from the motor before the pan will fit.2) Test fit the pan. Mine required "adjustment" on a few of the mounting holes.3) I had to clearance the drivers side transmission support wing to get it to go back on. Photo below.4) There is a transmission bolt that goes through the support wing. It's the bolt that goes through, not the bolt that treads on to the wing. This bolt MUST be installed prior to bolting up the transmission and pan, otherwise there is no way to get it in. That is you'll be stabbing the transmission and tightening this bolt at the same time. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo.5) Check the fitting of the oil pickup where it goes into the front cover on the 2rz. It's been reported that this may not seal correctly. This is a big deal, as you otherwise won't be pulling oil from the pan.
So these transmission support wings (bellhousing stiffener plates) appear to only be on 2RZ engines, 2WD. I couldn't find any 3RZ versions. Seems odd that a 2RZ bellhousing has stiffener plates and a 3RZ doesn't? I have a few empty holes on my 3RZ bellhousing after mating to my W56 trans and would like to make this setup as strong as possible. Any thoughts?
I put them on my 3rz. Didn't seem real strong without it. And I had to modify the one I used on the drivers side too.
That is just too weird they didnt put them on the more powerful engine and heavier trucks.
how were the fuel lines ran? just wondering if it's possibly vapor locking
I recently swapped a 3rz into my 87 4 runner. The engine was completely rebuilt, balance shafts deleted and the head machines for better air flow. The entire engine is brand new. I have an issue though I am hoping for some help on. I starts right up, no CEL and runs great. When I shut it off, it will not re start right away.
It is a 98 and thanks for the info. The wiring harness and computer all came from the same vehicle. I fear I facing an electrical issue someplace but am not sure where to start to look.
For megasquirt stuff, I measured the resistance curve of that rear temp sensor. Basically, as the resistance goes up (tends toward an open circuit) the colder the ECU will think it is. Typically, most ECUs will add fuel under this circumstance.. Probably over-fueling if you unplug it.Temperature Ohms163F 379 ohms70F 2479 ohms35F 5355 ohmsRef: http://www.2rzturbo.net/?p=82
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