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The cap is level, im running the chilkat mount brackets. Im going to look at it a littlemore this morning.
There are shims available to correct your issue. Simply shim whichever side needs to be raised.
That's what I had figured, I have been emailing them to figure out a solution to my issues.
I got a budbuilt x member. The type that mounts to the frame with u bolts. Solved all of my problems.
Well I got the exhaust fabricated, and found a bunch of little issues I need to work out. The good news is I got to drive it, and all I can say is WOW. This is one torque monster of a little motor. The bad news is I cracked the oil pan putting the engine in, poor weld quality using the welder at work. So I am going to remove the front diff, and pull the pan. Going to sand blast the pan, and fix the crack. Got the steering stabilizer relocated, and ran all the wires for the 02 sensors, but found the rear 02 plug would not work, so I have to order the downstream 02 sensor. Also have an exhaust leak at the manifold to pipe flange, I had to replace one of the studs and it will not let the pipe seal enough. So I think I will order the newer steel manifold from toyota. Need to swap the oil pressure sender from the 22re, and do the resistor mod for the tach. Need to finish running the wires for the DLC. But at least I know the engine runs good, and it is worth the effort and money.
I have had my 3rz swapped 84 stubby running for bout 2 weeks. Maybe a little more. Bought a M. C vehicle speed sensor and it has worked out great. Am running with no cat and no bank 1 2nd sensor. No codes from that setup. I know if I put a 2nd sensor in it will set a catalyst efficiency code. Live data does see hearted circuit open for that sensor position. At the time of completetion I used a 98 taco pacesetter which rubs the p side frame rail. I will go to a 2000 4runner 3rz exhaust setup next week. Turned out my taco did have w59 which I borrowed the bell from. T100 2wd oil pan went on fine. Nice baffling in that. Toyota F.I.P.G. is good stuff. Taco harness worked out good an uses the same number of wires t o and from the key switch as my 84 carbed. I have encountered misfire code on 2nd cylinder and have changed wires. I think one of the 2 exhaust valvesmay be leaky. I found a new head casting guts and cams setup on engine monster with 3 year parts wwarranty for 5 ana quarter. National head has 3rz rebuilt head for 320 something. However not all the internals are new. Has anybody seen these listings. Tough to believe they can do this stuff this cheap. I know if I pull the head it will cost at least that much locally and he,d probably only replace what was worn an do a valve job. I also found heads online for 900 an up. Input anybody?
Yes . Removed plugs an gapped a touch tight .30 reinstalled in different cylinders. No on the noid. You hit on something when you mentioned aftermarket heads, I actually would prefer to keep my cylinder head. . No on the compression check and valve adj. Check. Those are my next move. I have a about 15 inches of vaccum at idle but it is steady. I think it should be much higher. Because it is steady is what has me think in one valve leaks. Idles a touch rough but runs smooth off idle. Sometimes won't set misfire code for 20 miles or so. Thanks for the heads up about a.m. heads. .
15 inches could be a little low depending on altitude, at a little over 5000 feet I'm between 16 and 17 inches. I seem to recall a valve would cause the vacuum gauge to jump around instead of staying steady but it's been a while since I have used a vacuum gauge for diagnosis lolThe rough idle smoothing out off idle could also be a vacuum leak, a few years ago I had a prius at work with a similar issue with a cracked intake manifold that another dealer had thrown injectors and a few other things at
Yes, with a leaking valve the needle will fluctuate rapidly. Low vacuum can be a vacuum leak or it could be a timing issue. These 3rz's are good for burning exhaust valves if they are not adjusted. That is the one thing I made sure I did. There were several exhaust valves that were too tight of clearance. 15" is a bit low, but like you said it depends on the altitude. For sea level normal vacuum range is 17-22 inches, and steady.I hear you about the vacuum gauge, I still use mine for diagnosis since I seem to get a lot of OBD1 vehicle in with some weird issues. The nice thing about most of the vehicles I work on is the tool we use, all through the scan tool I can run a Relative Compression test in about 15 seconds and get a base line on the mechanical side of the engine, then move on to fuel or ignition. Got to love factory scan tools!Yea my swap is pretty much down hill from here, once I get the pan fixed it will be all easy little stuff. Having to contend with the IFS put a different set of challenges for this swap. It really complicates things, and really I am lucky it fit at all. I took a shot in the dark, since I was still driving the truck when I fabricated the pan. My oil pressure gauge was not working, I assumed the sender on the 3rz was for a gauge, well I was wrong. So I need to swap the oil sender from my 22re over and fix that little issue.I think I will pull the pan this weekend, and get that rolling. The wife is on my but to get this truck up and running so we can make a beach run. Ultimately the goal is to get this truck built, and in a couple of years drive across the country. Plan on visiting with the family and taking this thing through the Rubicon. The wife and I were married in Tahoe, she want to go back there around our anniversary, so we plan on making the trip to Tahoe via the Con.
You have hit on something else that joggs my memory. This engine idles a little fast; around both sides of 950 as I recall. So the way things are right now I need to check everything for vacuum leaks as well as my cylinders for compression and valve clearances. I think I should check can timing in relation to crank TDC. I think that improper can timing can also cause low vacuum. Though unsure whether a fast idle would accompany that. When I put plug wires on the coil packs the old ones weren't connected to the proper cylinders but it ran more or less OK. No crazy backfiring like through open valves but there is only four cylinders after all. This I do know: kickin it here aint gonna get it done. I appreciate you guys and your input cause it's easy to get tunnel vision and overlook something or else dismiss an obvious possibility because it seems too simple. Ad I recall altitude er elevation here is about 3800 ft. Above sea level.
Thats what I thought on the vacuum gauge, anymore its rare for me to work on anything older than probably 06 unless its a hybrid and some how since our shop foreman got promoted I end up with all the electrical diag, so other areas are getting rusty , on the plus side working on my 4runner is far enough from what I do on a daily basis to be enjoyable lol. I hear you on the factory scan tools, having the live data and active tests makes life simpler.Keeping IFS definitely adds to the challenges, fabbed my own motor mounts and got them installed yesterday and so far it looks like my front diff might actually clear the chilkat oil pan with out the diff drop for the first time in 2 1/2 years but I'm stuck waiting on the front stub shaft seals from work before installing the diff. Your welcome, I believe the high idle would be more associated with a vacuum leak and timing is going to be controlled by the ecu and cam to crank timing would throw a p0336 but retarded timing will cause lower vacuum readings and a misfire will cause retarded timing. It is easy to get tunnel vision especially with a motor swap.
I inquired about the Chilkat oil pan, when I initially had some problems with this pan sealing. For me the price was just too much, but fabrication work and quality tig welding is not cheap. Well luck would have it I emailed them and they said they were not going to make them any longer, and they would remove them from the website. How many quarts of oil is the Chilkat oil pan?I only ask because my pan and oil filter with 6 quarts puts the oil in the middle of the crosshatching on the stick, so mine is roughly 6.5 quarts.So I am still dealing with the oil pan woes, but I will get them worked out. I work on Fords mostly all day long, so working on the Yota an fabricating things is a fun time.
N6dlh, do you have any lift on your rig? Is there any reason the t100 pan won't work? I ask because I'm getting all the parts together for my swap and was planning on running the t100 pan but I have a 4 inch lift with the ifs. I have not heard a definite that it would work but assumed it would. I was planning to get the engine in and running right before I started the SAS.
I mentioned we decided to go with a Megasquirt - got it into a friends' shop and got started on that today. Took out the stock harness, cleaned everything unnecessary off the motor, hacked up the old burnt harness for connectors to build the new one, and got to soldering. I know a lot of you fellows are in California, so I should mention that as far as I know there's no way this would fly there. None of the emissions equipment will be functional, aside from the cat which I'm keeping until it pisses me off. I'll be bending a couple rules keeping this thing on the street here, and I'm quite sure that a California emissions nazi referee would take one look and laugh you out of his garage.Set up for an afternoon of wiring.
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