Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread

[m44offroad]

The cap is level, im running the chilkat mount brackets. Im going to look at it a littlemore this morning.

That's what I had figured, I have been emailing them to figure out a solution to my issues.

[Nation]

There are shims available to correct your issue. Simply shim whichever side needs to be raised.

[m44offroad]

I know of the shims and have looked at that option but when the alignment issues require more than just lifting one side or the other, they are not a complete solution

[n6dlh]

There are shims available to correct your issue. Simply shim whichever side needs to be raised.

Its not a problem in the short term. The trans mount is also back 1/4 of an inch. I am actually going to shim it at the trans mount, and oval out the holes in the cross member to be able to bring it in line. For me this is the best solution. The power steering cap is slightly canted to the passenger  side. So it may be some variances in the mounts causing this. But in my situation it actually will work out since it helps the pan clear the IFS.

I also had a crack in the weld on the front of the pan, so I fixed that today. I also got it fired up for a short time. Still need to wire the Alt, extend the rear 02 sensor harness, and button up and wrap some wires. Then I need to fabricate the exhaust. I have to say this thing feels like it has a ton more torque than the 22re, just when it fires up you can feel it!

Got the clutch bleed, and working fine, I am extremely happy with the feel of the clutch, very soft pedal. It also works out that it has a new Aisin clutch master and slave. I have put a lot of aftermarket clutches in, but never again, it is Aisin all the way now. Also discovered the intake I built would not work, I had to cut it to a strait tube to clear the upper radiator hose. I also ordered some T-bolt style clamps for the radiator hoses, all I can say is these things are bad to the bone, I highly recommend them on any vehicle. They are a bit pricy, but well worth it, they are about 6 bucks a clamp from summit racing.

I am excited to get this on the road, but now that I know the engine runs good, I am going to take my time and make sure it is right.  This thread is great and want to thank everyone on it, this is a valuable source of info.

[n6dlh]

That's what I had figured, I have been emailing them to figure out a solution to my issues.

I was going to fabricate my own mounts but decided that I would buy the Chilkat mounts so I could spend more time working on the rest of the swap. I was surprised to get the PCM wiring done in about 3 hours. The wife just about had a heart attack looking at the wires. She asked me if that is the kind of stuff I do at works, yes it is.

It would have been easier to do it at work in the shop, and taken less time, but I am house sitting my dads house, so I had to use the father in laws barn.

[Nation]

I got a budbuilt x member. The type that mounts to the frame with u bolts. Solved all of my problems.

[Nation]

And you guys know you can ask bolt the 22r and 3rz mounts together to create a working mount?

[n6dlh]

I got a budbuilt x member. The type that mounts to the frame with u bolts. Solved all of my problems.

That might be an easier solution for me, since the my x member will take U bolts, it is long enough. All I would have to do is cut the x member mounts off the frame and bolt it on, will allow me to adjust it any way I want. That is what I was going to do when I eventually run dual cases.

[m44offroad]

In my case the 3rz sits 1/2 inch to the pass side at the crank center, 3 degrees rotated to the pass side and the output of the t case is over a inch to the pass side. Over a couple thousand miles it tore the OEM passenger side motor mount and OEM trans mount and the drivers side mount was on its way out, I installed the TG HD mounts on the motor and trans and very quickly found metal to metal contact on the motor and trans mounts.

In all honesty it might be my frame is out of spec and have nothing to do with the chilkat mount brackets, either way the chilkat brackets and  tg mounts are on their way out of the truck and I will fabricate the mounts myself since I dislike spacers. With a freshly built  W56hd going in getting it set up correctly for the right drive line angle is a must especially since I have a feeling the noise in 4th and 5th gear in my current trans may be partially caused the current drive train alignment.

[stubbysr5]

I have had my 3rz swapped 84 stubby running for bout 2 weeks. Maybe a little more. Bought a M. C vehicle speed sensor and it has worked out great. Am running with no cat and no bank 1 2nd sensor. No codes from that setup. I know if I put a 2nd sensor in it will set a catalyst efficiency code. Live data does see hearted circuit open for that sensor position. At the time of completetion I used a 98 taco pacesetter which rubs the p side frame rail. I will go to a 2000 4runner 3rz exhaust setup  next week. Turned out my taco did have w59 which I borrowed the bell from. T100 2wd oil pan went on fine. Nice baffling in that. Toyota F.I.P.G. is good stuff. Taco harness worked out good an uses the same number of wires t o and from the key switch as my 84 carbed. I have encountered misfire code on 2nd cylinder and have changed wires. I think one of the 2 exhaust valvesmay be leaky. I found a new head casting guts and cams setup on engine monster with 3 year parts wwarranty for 5 ana quarter. National head has 3rz rebuilt head for 320 something. However not all the internals are new. Has anybody  seen these listings. Tough to believe they can do this stuff this cheap. I know if I pull the head it will cost at least that much locally and he,d probably only replace what was worn an do a valve job. I also found heads online for 900 an up. Input anybody?

[n6dlh]

Well I got the exhaust fabricated, and found a bunch of little issues I need to work out. The good news is I got to drive it, and all I can say is WOW. This is one torque monster of a little motor. The bad news is I cracked the oil pan putting the engine in, poor weld quality using the welder at work. So I am going to remove the front diff, and pull the pan. Going to sand blast the pan, and fix the crack. Got the steering stabilizer relocated, and ran all the wires for the 02 sensors, but found the rear 02 plug would not work, so I have to order the downstream 02 sensor.

Also have an exhaust leak at the manifold to pipe flange, I had to replace one of the studs and it will not let the pipe seal enough. So I think I will order the newer steel manifold from toyota. Need to swap the oil pressure sender from the 22re, and do the resistor mod for the tach. Need to finish running the wires for the DLC.

But at least I know the engine runs good, and it is worth the effort and money.

[m44offroad]

Well I got the exhaust fabricated, and found a bunch of little issues I need to work out. The good news is I got to drive it, and all I can say is WOW. This is one torque monster of a little motor. The bad news is I cracked the oil pan putting the engine in, poor weld quality using the welder at work. So I am going to remove the front diff, and pull the pan. Going to sand blast the pan, and fix the crack. Got the steering stabilizer relocated, and ran all the wires for the 02 sensors, but found the rear 02 plug would not work, so I have to order the downstream 02 sensor.

Also have an exhaust leak at the manifold to pipe flange, I had to replace one of the studs and it will not let the pipe seal enough. So I think I will order the newer steel manifold from toyota. Need to swap the oil pressure sender from the 22re, and do the resistor mod for the tach. Need to finish running the wires for the DLC.

But at least I know the engine runs good, and it is worth the effort and money.

Good to hear you got to test drive it, 17141-75080 is the part number for the newer mini header manifold from toyota, it also takes a different heat shield which is 17167-75100, both these are for 01-04 California LEV spec tacoma with 3rz

I have had my 3rz swapped 84 stubby running for bout 2 weeks. Maybe a little more. Bought a M. C vehicle speed sensor and it has worked out great. Am running with no cat and no bank 1 2nd sensor. No codes from that setup. I know if I put a 2nd sensor in it will set a catalyst efficiency code. Live data does see hearted circuit open for that sensor position. At the time of completetion I used a 98 taco pacesetter which rubs the p side frame rail. I will go to a 2000 4runner 3rz exhaust setup  next week. Turned out my taco did have w59 which I borrowed the bell from. T100 2wd oil pan went on fine. Nice baffling in that. Toyota F.I.P.G. is good stuff. Taco harness worked out good an uses the same number of wires t o and from the key switch as my 84 carbed. I have encountered misfire code on 2nd cylinder and have changed wires. I think one of the 2 exhaust valvesmay be leaky. I found a new head casting guts and cams setup on engine monster with 3 year parts wwarranty for 5 ana quarter. National head has 3rz rebuilt head for 320 something. However not all the internals are new. Has anybody  seen these listings. Tough to believe they can do this stuff this cheap. I know if I pull the head it will cost at least that much locally and he,d probably only replace what was worn an do a valve job. I also found heads online for 900 an up. Input anybody?

I would be wary of aftermarket heads, at my work we have seen a few on different motors out of spec from the manufacturer.  Usually on these motors it is only a burnt exhaust valve and a simple valve job will do just fine unless its been overheated I belive the local machine shop we use only charges about 150 to go through a head. Before pulling the head I would recommend running compression, check valve adjustment,  and although I see you changed wires, have you checked plugs and noid?

[stubbysr5]

Yes . Removed plugs an gapped a touch tight .30 reinstalled in different cylinders. No on the noid. You hit on something when you mentioned aftermarket heads, I actually would prefer to keep my cylinder head. . No on the compression check and valve adj. Check. Those are my next move. I have a  about 15 inches of vaccum at idle but it is steady. I think it should be much higher. Because it is steady is what has me think in one valve leaks. Idles a touch rough but runs smooth off idle. Sometimes won't set misfire code for 20 miles or so. Thanks for the heads up about a.m. heads. .

[m44offroad]

Yes . Removed plugs an gapped a touch tight .30 reinstalled in different cylinders. No on the noid. You hit on something when you mentioned aftermarket heads, I actually would prefer to keep my cylinder head. . No on the compression check and valve adj. Check. Those are my next move. I have a  about 15 inches of vaccum at idle but it is steady. I think it should be much higher. Because it is steady is what has me think in one valve leaks. Idles a touch rough but runs smooth off idle. Sometimes won't set misfire code for 20 miles or so. Thanks for the heads up about a.m. heads. .

15 inches could be a little low depending on altitude, at a little over 5000 feet I'm between 16 and 17 inches. I seem to recall a valve would cause the vacuum gauge to jump around instead of staying steady but it's been a while since I have used a vacuum gauge for diagnosis lol
The rough idle smoothing out off idle could also be a vacuum leak, a few years ago I had a prius at work with a similar issue with a cracked intake manifold that another dealer had thrown injectors and a few other things at

[n6dlh]

15 inches could be a little low depending on altitude, at a little over 5000 feet I'm between 16 and 17 inches. I seem to recall a valve would cause the vacuum gauge to jump around instead of staying steady but it's been a while since I have used a vacuum gauge for diagnosis lol
The rough idle smoothing out off idle could also be a vacuum leak, a few years ago I had a prius at work with a similar issue with a cracked intake manifold that another dealer had thrown injectors and a few other things at

Yes, with a leaking valve the needle will fluctuate rapidly. Low vacuum can be a vacuum leak or it could be a timing issue. These 3rz's are good for burning exhaust valves if they are not adjusted. That is the one thing I made sure I did. There were several exhaust valves that were too tight of clearance. 15" is a bit low, but like you said it depends on the altitude. For sea level normal vacuum range is 17-22 inches, and steady.

I hear you about the vacuum gauge, I still use mine for diagnosis since I seem to get a lot of OBD1 vehicle in with some weird issues. The nice thing about most of the vehicles I work on is the tool we use, all through the scan tool I can run a Relative Compression test in about 15 seconds and get a base line on the mechanical side of the engine, then move on to fuel or ignition. Got to love factory scan tools!

Yea my swap is pretty much down hill from here, once I get the pan fixed it will be all easy little stuff. Having to contend with the IFS put a different set of challenges for this swap. It really complicates things, and really I am lucky it fit at all. I took a shot in the dark, since I was still driving the truck when I fabricated the pan.

My oil pressure gauge was not working, I assumed the sender on the 3rz was for a gauge, well I was wrong. So I need to swap the oil sender from my 22re over and fix that little issue.

I think I will pull the pan this weekend, and get that rolling. The wife is on my but to get this truck up and running so we can make a beach run. Ultimately the goal is to get this truck built, and in a couple of years drive across the country. Plan on visiting with the family and taking this thing through the Rubicon. The wife and I were married in Tahoe, she want to go back there around our anniversary, so we plan on making the trip to Tahoe via the Con.

[stubbysr5]

You have hit on something else that joggs my memory. This engine idles a little fast; around both sides of 950 as I recall.  So the way things are right now I need to check everything for vacuum leaks as well as my cylinders for compression and valve clearances. I think I should check can timing in relation to crank TDC. I think that improper can timing  can also cause low vacuum. Though unsure whether a fast idle would accompany that. When I put plug wires on the coil packs the old ones weren't connected to the proper cylinders but it ran more or less OK. No crazy backfiring like through open valves but there is only four cylinders after all. This I do know: kickin it here aint gonna get it done.  I appreciate you guys and your input cause it's easy to get tunnel vision and overlook something or else dismiss an obvious possibility because it seems too simple.  Ad I recall altitude er elevation here is about 3800 ft. Above sea level.

[m44offroad]

Yes, with a leaking valve the needle will fluctuate rapidly. Low vacuum can be a vacuum leak or it could be a timing issue. These 3rz's are good for burning exhaust valves if they are not adjusted. That is the one thing I made sure I did. There were several exhaust valves that were too tight of clearance. 15" is a bit low, but like you said it depends on the altitude. For sea level normal vacuum range is 17-22 inches, and steady.

I hear you about the vacuum gauge, I still use mine for diagnosis since I seem to get a lot of OBD1 vehicle in with some weird issues. The nice thing about most of the vehicles I work on is the tool we use, all through the scan tool I can run a Relative Compression test in about 15 seconds and get a base line on the mechanical side of the engine, then move on to fuel or ignition. Got to love factory scan tools!

Yea my swap is pretty much down hill from here, once I get the pan fixed it will be all easy little stuff. Having to contend with the IFS put a different set of challenges for this swap. It really complicates things, and really I am lucky it fit at all. I took a shot in the dark, since I was still driving the truck when I fabricated the pan.

My oil pressure gauge was not working, I assumed the sender on the 3rz was for a gauge, well I was wrong. So I need to swap the oil sender from my 22re over and fix that little issue.

I think I will pull the pan this weekend, and get that rolling. The wife is on my but to get this truck up and running so we can make a beach run. Ultimately the goal is to get this truck built, and in a couple of years drive across the country. Plan on visiting with the family and taking this thing through the Rubicon. The wife and I were married in Tahoe, she want to go back there around our anniversary, so we plan on making the trip to Tahoe via the Con.

Thats what I thought on the vacuum gauge, anymore its rare for me to work on anything older than probably 06 unless its a hybrid and some how since our shop foreman got promoted I end up with all the electrical diag, so other areas are getting rusty  , on the plus side working on my 4runner is far enough from what I do on a daily basis to be enjoyable lol. I hear you on the factory scan tools, having the live data and active tests makes life simpler.

Keeping IFS definitely adds to the challenges, fabbed my own motor mounts and got them installed yesterday and so far it looks like my front diff might actually clear the chilkat oil pan with out the diff drop for the first time in 2 1/2 years but I'm stuck waiting on the front stub shaft seals from work before installing the diff.

You have hit on something else that joggs my memory. This engine idles a little fast; around both sides of 950 as I recall.  So the way things are right now I need to check everything for vacuum leaks as well as my cylinders for compression and valve clearances. I think I should check can timing in relation to crank TDC. I think that improper can timing  can also cause low vacuum. Though unsure whether a fast idle would accompany that. When I put plug wires on the coil packs the old ones weren't connected to the proper cylinders but it ran more or less OK. No crazy backfiring like through open valves but there is only four cylinders after all. This I do know: kickin it here aint gonna get it done.  I appreciate you guys and your input cause it's easy to get tunnel vision and overlook something or else dismiss an obvious possibility because it seems too simple.  Ad I recall altitude er elevation here is about 3800 ft. Above sea level.

Your welcome, I believe the high idle would be more associated with a vacuum leak and timing is going to be controlled by the ecu and cam to crank timing would throw a p0336 but retarded timing will cause lower vacuum readings and a misfire will cause retarded timing.   It is easy to get tunnel vision especially with a motor swap.

[Leady]

First time posting, hate to get in the middle of these conversations but my problem is directly related to this thread.

I just bought a first gen (1980) truck with a first gen (distributor) 3rzfe in it. On Wednesday actually ha. It's a great truck and the work that has been done was all done really well.

Unfortunetly, bad luck, stupidity and less than ideal trails have put a damper in the fun this weekend. I've compounded a list of problems between a blown headgasket, valve train noise, severe loss of power and a knock in the bottom end. Typically, I would just get another motor from a junkyard or Craigslist when a laundry list of problems like this arises but these engines seem to be kinda scarce these days. I'm assuming it has something to do with Toyota crushing so many first gen tacomas.

Obviously the head gasket is issue 1. This truck has an electric fan on a switch that may or may not have been turned on when it was idling waiting to be loaded back on the trailer. My fault. The knock and valve train noise could be caused by a failed oil pump I would assume. I did have oil pressure, but it was a hot weekend with a lot of mud, probably 5w30 in there that all could have contributed to the lower than what I remember at test drive oil pressures.

Would a compression test be botched because of the blown head gasket?

I'm not sure where to start other than tear it out and hope it's rebuild-able since replacements seem hard to come by. At least around the Pittsburgh area.

[m44offroad]

A blown head gasket depending on where I perforated can cause low compression readings, also coolant in the oil from the head gasket can cause low oil pressure and knocking, how bad it was overheated will probably the deciding factor on whether the head can be saved.

[Leady]

there wasn't any coolant droplets on the dipstick but it did get up to 250 degrees before I realized the damn fan switch wasn't on. The coolant is milky though

[n6dlh]

Thats what I thought on the vacuum gauge, anymore its rare for me to work on anything older than probably 06 unless its a hybrid and some how since our shop foreman got promoted I end up with all the electrical diag, so other areas are getting rusty  , on the plus side working on my 4runner is far enough from what I do on a daily basis to be enjoyable lol. I hear you on the factory scan tools, having the live data and active tests makes life simpler.

Keeping IFS definitely adds to the challenges, fabbed my own motor mounts and got them installed yesterday and so far it looks like my front diff might actually clear the chilkat oil pan with out the diff drop for the first time in 2 1/2 years but I'm stuck waiting on the front stub shaft seals from work before installing the diff.

Your welcome, I believe the high idle would be more associated with a vacuum leak and timing is going to be controlled by the ecu and cam to crank timing would throw a p0336 but retarded timing will cause lower vacuum readings and a misfire will cause retarded timing.   It is easy to get tunnel vision especially with a motor swap.

I inquired about the Chilkat oil pan, when I initially had some problems with this pan sealing. For me the price was just too much, but fabrication work and quality tig welding is not cheap. Well luck would have it I emailed them and they said they were not going to make them any longer, and they would remove them from the website.

How many quarts of oil is the Chilkat oil pan?

I only ask because my pan and oil filter with 6 quarts puts the oil in the middle of the crosshatching on the stick, so mine is roughly 6.5 quarts.
So I am still dealing with the oil pan woes, but I will get them worked out. I work on Fords mostly all day long, so working on the Yota an fabricating things is a fun time.

[old runner]

N6dlh, do you have any lift on your rig? Is there any reason the t100 pan won't work? I ask because I'm getting all the parts together for my swap and was planning on running the t100 pan but I have a 4 inch lift with the ifs. I have not heard a definite that it would work but  assumed it would. I was planning to get the engine in and running right before I started the SAS.

[m44offroad]

 

I inquired about the Chilkat oil pan, when I initially had some problems with this pan sealing. For me the price was just too much, but fabrication work and quality tig welding is not cheap. Well luck would have it I emailed them and they said they were not going to make them any longer, and they would remove them from the website.

How many quarts of oil is the Chilkat oil pan?

I only ask because my pan and oil filter with 6 quarts puts the oil in the middle of the crosshatching on the stick, so mine is roughly 6.5 quarts.
So I am still dealing with the oil pan woes, but I will get them worked out. I work on Fords mostly all day long, so working on the Yota an fabricating things is a fun time.

I'm sitting about 5.5 quarts, when I started this swap I did not trust my welding especially on something that has to hold fluid. I may still go through and redo the oil pan and toss the modified pan with the modified mounts and chalk it up to a learning experience, but that all depends on how many clearance issues still exist once I get the seals and shafts swapped over to the 4.88 diff, gotta love how projects snowball. I have been with Toyota for the last 10 years, the last 5 as a master diagnostic tech so even tough  it is still the same brand its not even close to what I do at work. what started in 2008 as a $600 dollar tow it out of a field, fix it and sell it (at least that's the excuse I used with my parents whose house it was stored at) turned into a black hole where money disappears and receipts will never be added up

N6dlh, do you have any lift on your rig? Is there any reason the t100 pan won't work? I ask because I'm getting all the parts together for my swap and was planning on running the t100 pan but I have a 4 inch lift with the ifs. I have not heard a definite that it would work but  assumed it would. I was planning to get the engine in and running right before I started the SAS.

4 inch diff drop should clear the unmodified t100 oil pan depending on engine mounts, with my mounts the original unmodified pan would probably clear with the diff dropped 2-3 inches and the only lift I am running is a 2 inch OME suspension lift

[old runner]

Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure it would work but never got a definite from anyone who has done it.

While we're talking stuff that I think will work but haven't got a definite on, anyone see any issues with running the 2wd tacoma auto with the prerunner adapter to stock dual cases? Other than adapter costs!

[onemanarmy]

I mentioned we decided to go with a Megasquirt - got it into a friends' shop and got started on that today.  Took out the stock harness, cleaned everything unnecessary off the motor, hacked up the old burnt harness for connectors to build the new one, and got to soldering.  I know a lot of you fellows are in California, so I should mention that as far as I know there's no way this would fly there.  None of the emissions equipment will be functional, aside from the cat which I'm keeping until it pisses me off.  I'll be bending a couple rules keeping this thing on the street here, and I'm quite sure that a California emissions nazi referee would take one look and laugh you out of his garage.

Set up for an afternoon of wiring.

Slight hijack....is that the generic winch mount used without a body lift?    I'm thinking of going this route but had not seen it installed with the bumper cut clean in two.   What winch is that?

[n6dlh]

Well like others have said before, the 3rz swap is worth all the work and then some. As much as I love these old trucks, the bad part about driving them is the problems the plague the 3vz or the lack of power of the 22r series.

I put 137.6 miles on the Runner today, had an absolute blast driving it. Tackled everything from stop and go traffic in the city to highway. I did not baby it, and had a lot of merging interchanges. Got on it pretty good a couple of times, bringing the rpms up. Not only does the motor have plenty of power, I averaged 22.83 mile per gallon.

So for the record, its a 98 3rz dual coil, unknown mileage, W56b trans, 4.11:1 gears, and 31x10.50 Goodyear Duratrac tires. When I pulled the 22re out I was averaging about 12-14 mpg. The best I ever saw on the 22re was 24 mpg one time with street tires on it, and never got above 19 with the new tires on it.

One thing I was able to do is monitor the short term and long term fuel trims, and found them to within 1% most of the time. So mechanically, and electrical wise everything is doing what it should. One I get the downstream 02 hooked up, and the Evap canister in I can get the CEL off.

Many thanks to everyone on this thread!

[n6dlh]

N6dlh, do you have any lift on your rig? Is there any reason the t100 pan won't work? I ask because I'm getting all the parts together for my swap and was planning on running the t100 pan but I have a 4 inch lift with the ifs. I have not heard a definite that it would work but  assumed it would. I was planning to get the engine in and running right before I started the SAS.

I have a 2" body lift, with a 2" drive train lift bud built cross member and fuel tank lift. I could have lifted the engine 2" and helped a bit, but I am certain that even with the 2" the T100 pan would not clear. I will eventually lift the engine, but as long as my drive shaft angles are ok I am not worried about it. I got the pan sealed up about as good as it is going to get. I think with a 4" bracket lift it would clear fine. There is no way I was going to go that route, with that kind of money I would SAS and call it a day. I decided to go the other route since the truck is darn near flat bellied now, so I have much more ground clearance where it is needed most, since I can and do cross some fallen tree's at times. Plus when I do SAS the truck it will be that much better. Those darn 1st Gen fuel tanks and cross members hang so low!

[n6dlh]

New Plates came in today, Had to do something a little different than Big Mike. Out of all the options this was the one I like the best. And of course I had to do the DTOM plate!

[dcg9381]

So I own this thing:


Which has this thing in it:


It's gone through lots of generations of turbos, being intercooled, running E85...   And I took it off the road a few years ago.. OK, more than a few, largely because the W56 was tired with 200k on it and life had gotten in the way.

It ran megasquirt (MSnSE) using the factory VAST ignition.  I never did get it to the point where I wanted it, but it was reliable and certainly put down more power than factory.


I've been collecting parts to do a 3rz.  And the 3rz's are starting to become harder to come by, so I eventually bought one...   It's out of a 2001 Tacoma, manual, coil type motor.    It should arrive in the next week or so.

I've got the T100 pan setup and engine mounts.  W59 housing and a rebuilt W56.

The 4runner is now "antique" which helps simply inspection hassles..

I'm going to pull the turbo off of the 22RE/22RTE and put it on the 3rz.  From what I read, the 2rz/3rz really takes to turbo-charging well.  I don't want to go nuts, but 200-250 hp would be nice.

Here's where I need help:
There have been a few 2rz / 3rz megasquirt projects, but very few that are documented very well.  In order to get me over the hump in terms of learning, I'd like to find someone who has this working... In particular:
1) What MS unit are you using?
2) What ignition system (especially if you've got the coil motor) - and what are the associated settings
3) Initial fuel map and timing map would be helpful.
4) Recommendations for turbo manifold.. I know the manifold built by Steed Speed (and sold by LC) is good.

I'll take full MSQ's if that's easier...
I promise to document it, so you can point people to me in about all the details... :-)

[dcg9381]

OK.. Ended up with a 2rz instead of 3RZ.  Coil-pack motor.  Currently testing that motor..
A few questions:

1) Can someone give me some hints on re-structuring the factory AC?  I was told that I need the AC manifold from a 1988 V6 4runner (3.0L) - can someone confirm?   Then have custom lines built?

2) How are you getting the factory tack to work with the 2RZ/3RZ?   The ignition system in the 2000 Tacoma uses what us EFI guys call "logic coils" - they're powered by +12v, and triggered by a 5v pulse.   The factory 1st generation tach is odd-ball if I remember right.  How do I get it to play nice?

3) Do I just move over the factory oil pressure sender from the 22RE  and the same thing on the coolant temperature sensor?   (again, trying to use the factory gauge cluster)