Author Topic: rebuilding front end  (Read 2220 times)

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GrenadedToy

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rebuilding front end
« on: Dec 10, 2005, 04:47:28 PM »
im going to be buying a knuckle rebuild kit off marlin in a few days. i was just wondering that since my mechanical ability is about medium if i could do it myself with basic tools(all i have). anything thing that i might run into i would have problems with? any help is appreciated.

91 super yoda

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #1 on: Dec 10, 2005, 05:02:13 PM »
clean shop and lots of towels, brake cleaner and degreaser is a must. some cloths that you wuoldnt mind burning afterwords.

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #2 on: Dec 10, 2005, 05:07:37 PM »
a 10mm for the locker bolts, 12mm for the lockhub studs, ahammer and punch to remove the cone washers, 52mm socket  or some big slipjoint pliers  or just a shapre punch and a hammer to get the hub nuts  off the spindle,  oh yea some snap ring pliers help but ive done it with a couple small pry bars,  then remove the hub and rotor,  oh smack,  forgot,  17mm to remove the brake caliper  and a 10mm to release the brake fluid pressure, then rotorand hub off, 14mm for the spindle bolts 17 mm for the steering arm studs and bottom cap studs, :smack:  forgot again,  10mm for the felt wiper,  gotta remove those,  :headscratch:  then again,  maybe you could skip that, not sure ive never skipped that,

but simple hand tools is all you need
just replace the bearings and seals  and make sure you have the same amount of shims on top and bottom,  of the knuckle
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KDC

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #3 on: Dec 10, 2005, 05:09:00 PM »
If you don't have a manual, get one.  It helps a lot.
The hardest part for me was getting those damn cone washers off.  But, besides that it's pretty straight forward.
Tools I used: BFH, 10mm wrench, 12mm wrench, screw drivers, snap ring plyers, breaker bar, 52mm socket, I think it's a 19mm for the steering arm nuts, a lot of greese, 14mm socket.  I believe that was it.

kneedownnate

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #4 on: Dec 10, 2005, 10:10:03 PM »
When you go to remove the connical washers you should loosen the nuts a couple of turns, then start hitting the end of the hub with a rubber mallot lightly at first, then progressively harder till the washers start popping out.  Don't hit it too hard, but it can take a little bit of abuse without damage.
RIP KYOTA

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shad

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #5 on: Dec 11, 2005, 06:42:03 AM »
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91 super yoda

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #6 on: Dec 11, 2005, 05:38:52 PM »
when i pull mine off i have a 3/8 extension that i dont really care about and a short socket that will slip over the nut, make sure you back it off a little to cover up the threads. sometimes you'll get a stubborn one so get a flat head and beat it into the crack of the cone washer for a little more encouragement. snap ring pliers will work on the snap ring but i personally prefer to flatheads so i can kinda pry on it to get it off a little easier. you shouldnt need the 54 mm socket unless they are on there too tight, i use a pair of channel locks. and make sure you keep the shims exactly in the spot that you got them from if you are reusing them or exactly which ones they are if you are replacing them. and puting it back together is the easy part.

kyle_22r

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #7 on: Dec 11, 2005, 07:32:39 PM »
i invested in a pair of "retaining ring pliers" at sears today for $15.  may seem like a lot for a set of pliers, but the aggravation you save by not having to waste your time with screwdrivers and needlenose pliers to get those snap rings with no holes off is well worth it.  these things are spring loaded and have a knurled surface to grab the ends of the snap ring, unlike regular snap ring pliers.

and for the steering arm knuckle cone washers, i whack on the under side of the steering arm a few times and that usually knocks them loose.

my hardest thing to do was remembering how the knuckles go back on.  first time through, i put them on the wrong sides.  easiest way to do it is to remember that the square plug faces upward, steering stop bolts toward the axle, and the caliper mount facing the rear of the truck.

Bender

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #8 on: Dec 12, 2005, 07:30:55 AM »
i invested in a pair of "retaining ring pliers" at sears today for $15. may seem like a lot for a set of pliers, but the aggravation you save by not having to waste your time with screwdrivers and needlenose pliers to get those snap rings with no holes off is well worth it. these things are spring loaded and have a knurled surface to grab the ends of the snap ring, unlike regular snap ring pliers.


I rebuilt mine this weekend.  Spent waaaay too long messing with the stupid ring trying to get it on.  Had to beg my wife to help me hold the pliers/screw drivers to try and get it on.  Finally drove myself nuts, ran to the parts store, got the pliers and did it the first try.  Shoot, my wife did the one on the other side and she usually avoids the garage at all costs!  The pliers were the best money I've spent in a long time!

Wermz84

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #9 on: Dec 12, 2005, 07:57:10 AM »
I used a torque wrench for reassembly, especially for setting the hub nuts.  Definatly keep track of the shims.  O' and getting those cone washers out :tantrum:

It's fairly simple if you take a methodical approach.  good luck :thumbs:
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kneedownnate

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Re: rebuilding front end
« Reply #10 on: Dec 12, 2005, 05:31:03 PM »
Forgot to mention, you might try putting some anti-sieze on the conical washers when you slap it all back together.  I did on mine and am hoping this will make tear down go easier.
RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

 
 
 
 
 

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