Author Topic: at the end of my rope!!!need help fast!!!! (Read 5185 times)

toynizzy · « **on:** Dec 01, 2005, 05:02:13 PM »

ok so ive been fighting my 85 22re ever since i replaced the busted intake on it.i got all the new o-rings for the injectors and thats all good,no vac leaks anywhere,new plugs,cap wires,rotor.still wouldnt idle down,cleaned out the air intake butterfly,nuthing.got a brand new damn tps from toyota and put it on and not much of a change,still wont idea down and idle hunts from time to time.after its warm it wont idle under 2000,and its driving me crazy as hell,I NEED HELP FAST BEFORE I GO MAD!!!!thanx all

MiniSimp · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 01, 2005, 06:37:14 PM »

Ok, 2 stupid questions for you:
1. Did you check the new TPS to make sure it was to specs?
2. Did you turn the idle screw?

toynorcal · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 01, 2005, 08:01:35 PM »

Quote from: MiniSimp on Dec 01, 2005, 06:37:14 PM

Ok, 2 stupid questions for you:
1. Did you check the new TPS to make sure it was to specs?
2. Did you turn the idle screw?

also clean throttle cable?

kneedownnate · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 01, 2005, 10:13:39 PM »

So when you cleaned your throttle body you looked inside to make sure the butterfly is closing all the way? If it's not adjusted right you can throw all the new tps's at it that you want and it will never idle down. With engine off and intake hose disconnected the flap should be shut, if not you can adjust the stop screw to allow it to close. Once you've done this you'll need to re-adjust your tps again. If none of this helps then I'd hafta say you have a vaccuum leak.

toynizzy · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 02, 2005, 07:57:32 AM »

well ive cleaned the throttle body very well and it is closing,did all the proper adjustments to the tps nad i have used 2 cans of carb looking for a vac leak,thats not it either.im not alone on this thing,3 of my friends who know toyotas pretty good have been helping me at there shop and i took it to another friend who is a general mechanic and damn smart,no one can get it so thats y im really confussed,last thing i can think is the damn ecu,need some serious guru help on this one

UGLYTOY · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 02, 2005, 03:54:08 PM »

check your idle air control valve--i think it's on the bottom of the intake--should be able to crimp the air hose and have the idle drop when cold and barely drop, if at all, when warm--i'm assuming u didn't bypass this valve somehow or leave the air hose disconnected

reklund5 · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 02, 2005, 07:25:59 PM »

Got an air bubble in your cooling system?

Ryan

toynizzy · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 03, 2005, 07:23:50 AM »

well i will check the idle air control but i dont think thats it.a friend of mine is is into toyotas brought me a good ecu outta a 85 same p/n as mine,put it in and no change at all,this is driving me crazy,and broke

UGLYTOY · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 03, 2005, 02:10:32 PM »

i still would check out the air valve, just takes a few minutes. the only reason i'm suggesting it is that u say the idle is stuck at 2000--that's exactly where mine is at when it's cold and on high idle
i just drained the coolant a couple weeks ago and when burping it, it was stuck at 2000 rpm even w/temp guage showing warm. i shut it off and restarted it a couple minutes later and idled fine. the reason is because the iac determines how much air gets by going off the coolant temp, and w/an air bubble, it had nothing to warm up the iac so it would slow down the idle--mine is a 93--according to alldata, your 85 is set up a little differently--it uses coolant and is supposed to also have a bimetallic spring in it (like a choke pull-off) that works off electricity--should have 2 wires--i'm wondering if the spring somehow got broken when u were taking the intake on and off, if u got a little rough w/it, and since u can't see the spring, didn't know any different
obviously i could be way in left field, but since stuck at 2000 that's the first place i would have looked
good luck--oh, when i had the air bubble, it would drop to normal and shoot right back up every couple of seconds.....

toynizzy · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 04, 2005, 02:39:03 PM »

well i did break some switch thats in the end of the intake but i glued it back together,figured it was good,dont know whast the hell it does lol,so maybe thats a problem huh?well i will have to look through my stash and see if another intake has a good 1,what is that sensor,looked like a t-stat end on it?there is another somthing right next to it too,if u think this might cause high idle and idle hunt let me know thanx,brian

toynizzy · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 04, 2005, 08:09:55 PM »

well i got to looking at my air intake and my 85 has no dashpot on it if the pic in my book is right,no little vac switch on my throttle anywhere,i see screw holes where sumthing was but no more.the deal is it ran good before i switched the intake and thats all i did was switch the intake,it did idle hunt before but it idled fine,the sensor in the front of the intake is the only thing that was messed up in the switch,friend got crazy with the wrench lol.so im thinking that maybe and i hope so that its the problem with the idle,if not i may give up

BigMike · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 05, 2005, 12:26:29 AM »

I am pretty sure that the air control valve is completely mechanical, and the electronic switch is there as a temperature switch to indicate to the computer that the engine has reached operating temperature and that the air control valve has opened (thus seeing the normal warm temp. condition).

2000 RPM is too high to begin with. Cold idle should only be around 1200 - 1400 RPM. But if that air control valve is stuck open, then it would definitely idle higher than normal.

The air control is mechanical. It is a piece that expands once heated, and closes off an air bypass port, thus controlling the idle. If you did not connect your cooling system up to your throttle body, then that is your problem, as stated by UT...

If you are concerned about your TPS Sensor, then there is a VERY VERY simple way to determining if it is in the "idle circuit" position. Simply jump the terminals T1 - E in your diag. box, just like you would when you are setting the timing, and if the idle changes -- drops a bit -- then the TPS is set in the correct idle position. But if the idle speed does not change at all, then the TPS is most likely out of adjustment, and it is not reading "idle" during Idle conditions.

This has happened to me before while setting timing on 22REs. I jumped the jumpers, and nothing happened. So I simply whacked on top of the TPS a couple times, and then all of a sudden, the idle dropped and I timed it.

But I wonder if that would be enough to throw a check code... maybe not.

hmmmmmmmm.........

If you are certain of no vacuum leaks, you've got good grounds, no air in your cooling system........

What about your fuel pressure regulator? Is the vacuum line connected to it so it can regulate fuel pressure when not under a load?

...... I'm stretching...

I could have told you that changing your ECU would not have made a difference. It always something mechanical or some sensor out of adjustment. If the engine is operating normally otherwise, then I would not suspect a faulty ECU. I've never seen that.

Good luck, and keep us informed

BigMike

toynizzy · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 05, 2005, 06:27:58 AM »

well i think most everything is done right but i will recheck vac system again and cooling system.that little switch i broke the end off,what does it do,i cant find it in my chiltons at all,very vague on cooling system in there.tps is right according to my friends book on setting it.im so ready to get this thing fixed its not even funny,if i dont get it soon ill be driving my s-10 all winter lol.i just pissed,what could really change when all i did was swap the intake?besides the little sensor on the end of the intake nuthing got hurt at all and even that the plug end just broke off the sensor a bit but i glued it on,thanx to all who have taken time to help me out with this mess,brian

UGLYTOY · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 05, 2005, 12:33:02 PM »

it looks like the 85's are set up like the newer ones and have both a coolant temp sensor and a cold start injector time switch at the front where u broke--i don't know which u broke. in ad's pic, it looks like cts is on the right when staring at the front of the engine and inj switch is right to the left of it
i would suggest going to your local library and looking at their alldata--most libraries have it and it's usually better than the chilton's (unless u have a professional edition or something)--plus it's free, unless u want copies--it will have vacuum diagrams if u no longer have yours under the hood, have test procedures for components, etc.--i assume they copy direct from toyota manuals although i have seen some screw ups (i won't tell u what we call alldata, but it is a good guide)
while checking for vacuum leaks, don't forget to check for a leaking brake booster (i'm stretching now, but is possible)
i assume u have played w/the adjusting screw like others have suggested and looked in throttle body to make sure the blasted thing is actually closed, linkage not bent when taken off, etc.
not to keep beating that poor horse, but did u crimp the air hose from the iac just to make sure? humor me a little.....

UGLYTOY · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 05, 2005, 03:12:58 PM »

sometimes i like to let loose and show the world how big of an idiot i am--ignore that last post (actually i think i figured out how to delete it, so maybe only half the world saw it?), it is the result of playing solitaire at work while trying to surf marlin's website.......dduuuhhh!!!!!!!!

if u still haven't had any luck, i would suggest posting everything u have checked, and how u checked it--then i will step aside and let someone else make a fool of themselves..... $Beer Chug\'n$

brainlessfool · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 05, 2005, 05:27:44 PM »

Quote from: UGLYTOY on Dec 05, 2005, 03:12:58 PM

i will step aside and let someone else make a fool of themselves..... $Beer Chug\'n$

you say that like it's a bad thing, we need more fools here!

toynizzy · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 06, 2005, 07:47:42 AM »

well i replaced the temp switch that i broke on the front of the intake,no change.ive carb tested it all again yesterday after i pulled the throttle body off and cleaned the hell outta it,nice and shiny butterfly now lol.still idling high,about 1600-2000 when warm.then on my way home last night from my friends shop i noticed that when i had the clutch in and hit the brakes the idle would drop down and start idle hunting,no damn idea what that means cause i carb checked all lines.and uglytoy keep it comming im liking the info ur giving me i thank u much,all of u who r helping a efi newbieit just sux cause i need it to work right and its x-mas time so all my money is gone for stuff for my son,so if i need more parts i will have to park the toy till spring and i find a new job,thanx to all for the help,i wil try my library for the alldata book and see,and idea on the brake idle hunting??brian

dj · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 06, 2005, 09:53:26 AM »

not to 2nd guess you but I would check the TPS for the proper adjustment 1 more time. as for the hunting when you hit the brakes, that can be adjusted with the plastic screw on the side of the air plenum closest to the valve cover.

UGLYTOY · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 06, 2005, 04:55:42 PM »

remember how i was half joking about checking the booster for any vacuum leaks? (i'm assuming that u have power brakes)--crimp the hose going to the booster and see if your idle drops--while u r at it, trace the hose all the way back to the intake to make sure it isn't split, etc--u can also press the brake pedal w/the engine off--should have 1 or 2 assists and then the pedal gets hard--if hard pedal as soon as engine is off, then there is an air leak somewhere--just another shot in the dark since i'm assuming u only pressed the pedal once (if u press it multiple times real quick it will affect the idle on pretty much any gasonline car w/vacuum brakes)......and fyi, the worst thing to do is throw parts at it, unless u have known good ones laying around that are free....besides, i'd hate 2 c u have to drive a chebby

toylife · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 06, 2005, 06:23:39 PM »

i know that i don't know alot but i had the same prob at a stoplight with the hunting. i know that it sounds stupid but start the truck cold take the rad cap off let it run and cycle for about 45-60 minsleave the heat wide open i did this and this fixed it. the little bit of air was causing this. i have had many people ask me this. i have told them the same thing and they did this and it stopped. just hear me oout and try i know it sounds like alot of time but you need to do this because of small amounts of air in the block.
good luck

it will bubble a little but keepthe rad full to the top the entire time.

toynizzy · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 09, 2005, 08:29:31 AM »

well ive been busy the last few days so maybe today i can get to the fixes u all put out there for me.i hope sumthin works soon or im gonna go nuts.ill try this stuff out and send me more ides if u have them,god knows im outta ideas,thanx all,brian

Zoomschwortz · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 09, 2005, 10:07:01 AM »

Do you know if your thermostat has a air bleed hole in it? If not you might try changing to one that has a air bleed hole to reduce the chance of an air bubble.

What condition is the tube between the T.B. and the MAF in. If it has a crack or a hole, it will allow un-metered air into the engine.

I know that the TPS has been mentioned a few times but you may want to re-adjust it using feeler gauges that are a .003" thinner than called for. If that doesn't work, re-adjust it again only using feeler gauges .003" thicker than called for.

toymech · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 09, 2005, 11:46:06 AM »

Any flash codes in the ecu,faulty temp sensor (green one in the front) will cause that. Also check the wires to it. Check that out if your positive theres no vacuum leaks in either the intake or anywhere before the mass air meter. You can also try another mass air meter as last resort if all else fails. Please E-mail me if you have no luck,I have tons of experience with the ol 22re engines. Hatchadoin@aol.com Later
Mike

toynizzy · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 05:02:42 PM »

well i put a new t-stat in there at the beggining of the mess and it has a bleed hole in it.the tps adjustments dont really do alot exept raise the idle and start hunting,cant get it quite right.the damn comp still says faulty tps or ecu after i put on a brand new one and switched the ecu out.no change at all,and i bought a new temp sensor for the front of the intake,no improvment there either!im so confused i just dont know??
brian

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 10, 2005, 05:48:18 PM »

I had issues with my tps as well, I think I ended up getting another one out of a junk pile and adjusting it..... have you tried putting a new tps on it

UGLYTOY · « **Reply #25 on:** Dec 12, 2005, 08:55:10 AM »

i didn't realize u were getting codes on this thing (maybe it was written and i just ignored it--mine rarely throws codes when it's acting up)--doublecheck all of your wiring, especially your grounds. check and make sure there aren't supposed to be some ground wires attached to the manifold or starter area that got left off. unplug the tps and computer and ohm check the wiring, maybe u broke a wire in the harness or tps connector while messing around? do u have connectors for the a/c or p/s that were left unplugged (probably won't throw that code, but worth checking)?
by the way, why did u replace the intake in the first place? was it the manifold or the gsk that was replaced?

Zoomschwortz · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 12, 2005, 09:28:46 AM »

I'm not sure which method you use to adjust the TPS, but I found that this really helped me.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

After I adjusted my TPS I got a code for a faulty TPS too. I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and the codehasn't been back since.

toynizzy · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 06:55:45 PM »

well i have tried everything i can think of,nothing has worked,im at the end now.getting ready to sell my truck and give up on the idea,thats how pissed i am with this shirt!!!

seanc · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 09:23:34 PM »

ok slow down. first things first, check the codes. clear them. then follow the FSM for diagnosing the problem. sounds like you need to adjust your TPS. also a toyota 22re will run completely without a TPS connectted i drove mine for several months without one because some wiring was bad. take the TPS connector off and then see if you have the same problem. also check the booster for vacuum leaks. make sure there are absolutly no leaks between your maf and TB

kneedownnate · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 09, 2006, 09:46:22 PM »

How did it run with the tps disconnected?

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