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sae80-90 gear oil in everything. Syn if you have money.How is thicker oil gonna help in water?
It don't, Mineral oil is cheaper to replace then syn. Just open the drain and fill plugs let sit and drain for a couple hours, then spray( I mean two cans) brake clean inside of the diff. The third can be removed or use the little red tube( comes with the can) to spray thru the fill and drain holes. And when I say spray I mean hit EVERYTHING. Or you could fill the diff with a good solvent and turn the axles by hand( do not try to move the truck) to wash the gears and diff, then drain. After allowing the diff to drain well and dry( I use air to finish off the drying part), refill the diff with oil. It's a long process but it's the solvent/brake clean the removes the contaminated oil and water, and you just have to sure all the "cleaner" is out of the diff before fresh oil is added. If there is solvent in the diff with the fresh oil, it will cut the oil( thinning it out). If you miss a drop or two it will not hurt, if you miss a half a cup or more your not running 80-90w any more. Better just add breather tubes.. and don't water in the diff to start.
There are a few different and less expensive ways to get water out of mechanical things. Products like WD40 break the water down and absorb it. Alcohol does this too. It absorbs the water and then evaporates. Basically, this is how fuel additives like "heat" work. They break up the water in the fuel and absorb it. I haven't priced any out, but stores like the Home Depot sell WD40 in gallon cans. If the cost wasn't too bad, you could put a quart or 2 of WD40 in the contaminated compartment. Cycle the gears around a little and the water would go out the drain when you dump the WD40. It would be worth checking into. Around here, a couple of cans of brake clean will set you back 6 or 7 bucks and I think the WD40 would do a better job of getting all the water out.
Am I overfilling by getting gear oil to the fill hole level.
I am bringing up this old thread from the dead. I am changing out my diff oil and was going to go with Redline synthetic. The problem I found was how difficult it is to find in a local shop. So I opted for Mobil 1, 85W140 rated GL5 for light trucks with limited slip diffs. At $16 a quart, I hope it is good stuff. I changed out the fluid in the front diff last night and it held nearly 3 quarts before it started coming out the fill hole. I'll do the rear diff tonight. Big Mike listed the capacity at 2 quarts per diff. Am I overfilling by getting gear oil to the fill hole level.
Is your diff rotated a bit?
Back from the dead again!My rear dif is rotated up for a better pinion angle, making the fill hole relatively lower than stock. Im planning on jacking the rear end off the ground when I refill it so that the third is in a standard position, allowing more oil to be poured in before coming out the fill hole.. Does this sound about right? Also, Im running an SM465 to a mini case in my Cruiser. Will the 465 "share" oil with the mini case?
90, I also use Lucas additive. Really quiets down the gears.
VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) 10w30 be good to run in a 22re? all year long. Am thinking about when I change the oil to use this oil. I think 20w50 would be to thick, and straight 30w wont be as good as muiltgrade? Thx
I use Redline 75W90 for the front/rear axles, transmission and transfer case. I am using Castrol 10W30 as engine oil, for no real reason. I wanted to use 5W30 like in my other Toyota's although it does not seem very common when reading other posts about engine oil.
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