Topic: coil igniter and distributor for a carbed 22r

[sdiker]

I am looking for a coil igniter and distributor for a carbed 22r

[hornett22]

got them.$50 shipped

[spc mike]

i know this thread is from '05, but i need an igniter (for 22r) and if anyone in the fresno area has one i would love to buy it from you

[THE ROCK]

lose the igniter and use a gm hei module..20.00 for the module@ any autoparts store: an igniter will cost a fella his gonads , and you dont know the condition of the module..I think they are about 300 bucks new from the dealer..My GM  module is from "77 Camaro 350" application. The Kragen p/n is NIEHOFF DR400CS module..there are 4 terminals..B,C,G,W.
B-goes to 12 volt source...C goes to ign power..G,W go to the pink/ white wires coming out of distributor...If you hook these up bass ackwards, truck wont run, but shouldnt fry anything either. Mount the module on a piece of aluminum for a heat sink, attach a small wire from 1 of the mounting holes from the module to heat mount and ground it..Someone has printed schematics previously here on Marlins Board The smog man here in KALI4NIA didnt say anything about it

[THE ROCK]

The B terminal is coil positive...the C terminal is coil negative...as mentioned before, G, W go to the distributor to pink/ white wires..dont forget to ground the module, use a heat sink, and insulate your new "harness" w/ something heat resistant..those wires could get hot and fail from the exhaust heat

[spc mike]

holy crap! you just saved me alot of money! thank you soooo much! ........i need my truck running soon!

[THE ROCK]

  Carry a spare one! you can expect it to live about 4 years..my 1st one lasted 5..failed on trail headed to Uncle Toms cabin near Georgetown, ca. :hammerhead:I didnt have a spare then !!The problem was easy to diagnose..truck stopped running dead in its tracks(lotsa snow) classic crank/ no-start..(the tachometer will "bounce" indicating cranking RPM) I didnt have diddly squat..checked all of the connections, wires, ect.( same signs/symptoms as a failed igniter) ..The spare module is small enough to keep in the glove box, and the price is right! For the next episode , upgrading to a GM CS-130 alternator(100 amp) vs pathetic 40 amp, stock, on the 1st Gen rig..Check out alternatorparts.com for the "iceberg upgrade 140 amp for the cs-130 alternator!

[spc mike]

i just went and bought one today. But i dforgeot to ask if it will work on an '85 22r?...... Also you saying that if my tach doesnt bounce when cranking (which it doesnt) it will most likley be the igniter right?

[THE ROCK]

always confirm diagnsis before buying parts! electrical components are usually non refundable/ returnable. pour a couple of tablespoons of fuel down the carb..if it does not run for a second or two, then you probably have no fire in the hole(spark)..if it backfires( flame through carb or gunshot from tailpipe) then, i think it would be safe to say that you have spark..you need spark, air,fuel, compression to make an internal combustion engine run..There is a "pick-up module" inside of the distributor below the rotor(the pink/ white leads originate here) :inthedark:that can fail also..there is a resistance check that can be performed to confirm or rule out..the specs are in toyota service manual..as far as I know, the mentioned GM ignition module will work w/ any carbed 20/ 22 R engine, havent yet tried w/ an efi system, but I cant really see why it wouldnt work.I run a 22R lower ond w/ a 20R head. I hope this is usefull info, cause my typing skills suck!

[spc mike]

i got fuel and air but still no spark......this is my setup tell me if you see anything wrong. when i hook the wires up to the coil, a relay of some sort clicks on(i can here it by or around the intake area) thus turning my "charge" dummy light on. whats up with that??




Do i need to disconect this from the original igniter, because its grounding something, posibly one of the wires the the DIST.
iam only keeping the orig. igniter so that i had somthing to mount the coil to.


this is what my original coil and igniter looks like


Here is an overlook of everything

[THE ROCK]

My igniter has been COMPLETELY ELIMINATED .my truck is a 1980. I will go over mine again this afternoon and mail you back..My "kit" that I purchased years ago had schematics..the page that you need is probably the one thats gone...the one pertaining to the igniter wiring..the kit I purchased( dont remember the name) came from somewere in oregon..had a pre-made harness, the heat sink, and the little ground wire to ground(were your phillips screw mts mod to body) to ground..I will check the Igniter wires for you and get back this afternoon.hopefully, the wire colors are the same..My ignition coil is the round type..and I do have the Toyota FSM for the ist gen w/ excellent wiring diagrams..I think the Factory wiring diagram is somewere on marlins board

[spc mike]

truck starts! i have to go but i will explain later

[THE ROCK]

  :beer:I just rechecked mine..the pink/white wires from the signal genereator(pick-up module inside of the dist.) go directly to the (old) IGNITOR

[THE ROCK]

incomplete....old igniter to the NEW GM Module...mount that mod on a small piece of aluminum,put some dielectric grease between module and your  heat sink. GLAD THAT YOUR ROLLIN!! OH WHAT A FEELIN TO OWN A TOYOTA!( THATSA OLD quote FROM A 70S tv COMMERCIAL

[Pruiett85yota]

I have a 77 truck with a 22r  will the height module work on it i also have a 84 igniter and coIL could I wire it up to work even if the 20r only have one wire going to the top of the dist