TECH: How I built my square driveshaft

Started by MiniSimp, September 14, 2005, 01:04:44 PM

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NorCalToy

Going out to start mine now. Thanks Mini I read both the eHow and here. :thumbs:
:willynilly: '89 truck SAS sittin on 35's, Tacoma rear axle w/ E-Locker, welded front

kneedownnate - You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable

iɹǝʌo ǝɯ ııoɹ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı

:flamer: IFS

85yotapolo

ok little confused on how to measure to get the right amount of tubing i will need....

anyone explain it better??

BoG-ToY

harbor freight carrys an 18" receiver tube (if your going 2") thats really all you need for the ONE side.
for the other side really, what I would do... is compress your front end as much as possible and measure how much tube you would need and cut off an inch or two (just  in case you compress FARTHER then what you did... then lift the truck up, let the axle droop and make sure you would still have plenty of engagement.

Maybe someone else can give you more info, I did mine, it worked great and it was VERY simple.
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

4runner freak

Quote from: 85yotapolo on February 10, 2010, 12:10:09 PM
ok little confused on how to measure to get the right amount of tubing i will need....

anyone explain it better??
Build it long, cut it to fit.

1. Measure distance from flange to flange,(A)
2. Measure from flange to cv(B) and flange to u-joint(C)
3. Subtract B and C from A= D
4. Make each piece at least as long as D and weld it up.
5. After it is welded up, put it together.
6. Take dimension A, subtract how much compression you want(E) and cut each piece to make the overall compressed length = A-D

Clear as mud?
Finally got my '85 4runner!
Let the buildup begin!
Working on DUAL-TRANNYS
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=862345

85yotanh

am I right in assuming that in 2wd there wouldnt be any vibrations?

BoG-ToY

hubs unlocked... tcase in 2wd the shaft is idle..... hubs locked or tcase in 4wd, some vibes... faster you go the worse they are... lol
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

NorCalToy

my shaft is good to 55 or so if im on the throttle. when im coasting its gets bad around 40-45.
:willynilly: '89 truck SAS sittin on 35's, Tacoma rear axle w/ E-Locker, welded front

kneedownnate - You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable

iɹǝʌo ǝɯ ııoɹ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı

:flamer: IFS

YERF

Is it just not even worth it to build one with a later model CV?

BoG-ToY

grind it out and make it an early model one?
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

yjay

Mine is cv.
Why would this not be preferable?
Minisimp's example is cv.  :dunno:
22re Daily Driver
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=56568.0
91 4Runner-R151f, MC07,23 spline duals, Marlin 1200lb clutch, 85 Front axle, Leaf swap rear, Yukon 5.29's, BFG KM2 35's, Detroit, OBA, 280k

BoG-ToY

he said late model CV, they were mated to a fixed IFS diff, so although they are limited on droop, you have to remove the tight spots with a rotary file
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

yotatough

I always run 2 standard u joints, never had a real problem without the cv in there

wakkjobb

+1; regular U-joints work well so far... CV for rear shaft, yes.

:twocents:
>>Dan
ASE certified shadetree mechanic and spoon operator
QuoteIronClad: If I wanted to hold hands and be nice I'd become a hippie.
85 4Runner, duals, 38s, 5.29s, locked, 3.4 swapped, GranVille Edition

yotatough

yeah I run the cv in the rear, my front is good up to 55mph so far.

BoG-ToY

sometimes I think its use what you have?

also, you have to change flanges too
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

Zane

can you swap out a 2nd gen front shaft on a first gen? does it bolt up?

84_yota_4wd

This thread helped me in 2014 almost 10 years later. Now that's cool
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