Author Topic: Synthetic vs. Conventional in H20  (Read 2070 times)

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blackdiamond

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Synthetic vs. Conventional in H20
« on: Sep 13, 2005, 08:54:50 PM »
I just tested synthetic (RP 75W-140) and conventional (Pennzoil 80W-90).  I mixed with water in a glass container and put into the microwave until it started to boil.  I noted that the RP did show signs of "white crap" in the oil while the conventional only showed traces that could have been left from the RP.  I also noted that the RP mix boiled in about 40 seconds while the conventional took a minute plus (the mixes were not identical amounts, but close).  Also, the RP was more difficult to clean out of the glass container, it "sticks" or"coats" better.  Definitely not scientific, but I think that it is plausible that the synthetics don't handle water/heat as well as conventional.

Hopefully someone else with give it a try and post up!
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond [OP]

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Re: Synthetic vs. Conventional in H20
« Reply #1 on: Sep 13, 2005, 08:57:32 PM »
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

 
 
 
 
 

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