Topic: No rock crawling

[franky112665]

Ok guys. I live in east Texas and there are very few rocks like you have out west. Our main trailing is mud and sand and more mud. My 94 Toyota extended cab 4x4, 22re, is bone stock. I would like to leave the IFS in place but I also want to regear with 4.88s or 5.29s and run 35’s on her. What is the potential issues I will I encounter with the IFS and being lifted. I know a SAS is what you go with crawlers. I don’t see any of that in my future. All advice is welcome. Thanks.

[RUGER]

franky

id go 4.88 since the 5.29 pinion is smaller aka weaker, however i run 5.29 and 35s. ive seen several capable ifs rigs but i have only run solid fronts. 5.29 and 35s will keep yer speedo more accurate if that matters to you.

hope you get the answers yer looking fer

RUGER

[OVRAROK]

4.88 front diff is a junkyard find. Check the door panel id tag. G144 is 488's. I ran 35s w/488s I liked it. You can pull the rear diff too. As far as suspension. The cv axles is the weak point, that and the idler arm. If I was going to leave the ifs. I would run a long travel front suspension, with some deavers in the rear.

[Snowtoy]

Ok guys. I live in east Texas and there are very few rocks like you have out west. Our main trailing is mud and sand and more mud. My 94 Toyota extended cab 4x4, 22re, is bone stock. I would like to leave the IFS in place but I also want to regear with 4.88s or 5.29s and run 35’s on her. What is the potential issues I will I encounter with the IFS and being lifted. I know a SAS is what you go with crawlers. I don’t see any of that in my future. All advice is welcome. Thanks.

Either gear set will work for you, personally I think the 5.29's are a better choice, closest to stock gearing/tire ratio, though if regearing on a budget, can't beat oem 4.87's 3rds if you can find them. 

With the IFS, the weakest part of the system is the tie-rod ends, regardless of tire size, if/when hitting obstacles at speed regardless of tire size, though I have only broken one on the trail over the last 32yrs.  Fortunately it is quick and cheap trail fix, tie rod ends are one of those wearable components, so just keep you old worn ones for trail spares. 

As mentioned the idler-arm is another weak point, they tend to bend even with bracing, but like the idler arms are a wearable component, so buy your next one with a lifetime warranty and keep your worn one for a trail spare.

IME, CV axle issues are more determinant on the type of lift you have, i.e., keeping the stock angle of the CV's which most aftermarket IFS suspension lifts or body lifts do, or increasing the angles like the cheaper alternative lifts like Ball joint spacer or cranking the torsion bars(stock or upgraded) do.

To clear 35's on my '91, I went with a 2" body lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, and beating the inner fender back to the body mount.

[franky112665 [OP]]

Thanks guys

[franky112665 [OP]]

Would the Chevy 63 springs help on the rear lift.