Topic: My truck has developed a shake

[Groundpounder17]

Just this week my '82 pick has developed a shake starting around 20 mph in 2nd gear that barely smooths out before shifting to 3rd then starts again that only smooths out a little before needing to shift to 4th.  I haven't driven it above 40 mph so I haven't been hitting 4th gear this week.  My truck has some lift from the PO, but I am unsure how much.  It is running 31x10.5 tires with the stock gears 4.10 gears.  I have been working on the engine lately as I am burning oil, but this is a totally new problem that came out of nowhere.  I am trying to figure out what it could be that would cause it to start all of the sudden without recent changes.  Normally I would expect that with a driveline issue, but I haven't had any driveline or suspension changes.  I wouldn't think I have broken a motor mount just driving back and forth to work, but I suppose it is possible. 

Thoughts? Ideas?  What should I check?

[Snowtoy]

Where are you feeling the shake?
Steering wheel/cab=tires
Seat/floor=driveline or drive train mounts

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Where are you feeling the shake?
Steering wheel/cab=tires
Seat/floor=driveline or drive train mounts

I am now hearing some vibration like sounds that sound like they are coming from the behind me. I am thinking in the exhaust at the catalytic conv and I am seeing and feeling vibration at the dash.  They both seemed to start being noticeable this week

[Snowtoy]

To see if it is engine/transmission related and not speed related, you can check the engine and transmission while parked, by putting the transfer case in neutral.  This still allow you to shift through the gears like you are driving it, without having to deal with road or driveline vibrations.

Might also try to keep track of the speed the vibes start and stop at in 2nd and 3rd.  Do they get worse the faster you go?

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

To see if it is engine/transmission related and not speed related, you can check the engine and transmission while parked, by putting the transfer case in neutral.  This still allow you to shift through the gears like you are driving it, without having to deal with road or driveline vibrations.

Might also try to keep track of the speed the vibes start and stop at in 2nd and 3rd.  Do they get worse the faster you go?

Honestly, I haven't driven it enough to notice.  I only live a mile away from work.  I will take note and try with the transfer case in neutral

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

I put the transfer case in neutral and shifted through.  I didn’t notice it. Then I put it on the interstate and it’s worse in 4th gear.  It’s a vibration and hum that I have never heard before.   It doesn’t decrease with speed it gets worse.  When I let off the gas it goes away

It almost sounds like the prop of an airplane

[Snowtoy]

Sound's like it is the driveline or a bearing issue in the rear axle.  If you can put the rear up on a jack, and spin the tires, and see what you hear/see.  Also, see what amount of play you have in the driveline, shouldn't be any up or down movement, and 9nly slight when turning it, about an 1/8".

Before the vibes started, had you noticed a ting sound, like a wrench smacking a pipe, when taking off, backing up.  The sound is an early warning that the u-joints are starting to go.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Sound's like it is the driveline or a bearing issue in the rear axle.  If you can put the rear up on a jack, and spin the tires, and see what you hear/see.  Also, see what amount of play you have in the driveline, shouldn't be any up or down movement, and 9nly slight when turning it, about an 1/8".

Before the vibes started, had you noticed a ting sound, like a wrench smacking a pipe, when taking off, backing up.  The sound is an early warning that the u-joints are starting to go.

Actually yes I had heard a clunk sound over the past few weeks when backing up and starting forward . Then last week I heard a rattle in my exhaust. This week it is the vibration. I bet it’s the u-joints. How do I check?

[Snowtoy]

Basically, just crawl under there and see how much play there is in the driveline.  If any up-dow, side-to-side, means they need to be replaced.  The only movement should be when twisting it, and that amount should be slight, as it is just the slack in the trans gear.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Basically, just crawl under there and see how much play there is in the driveline.  If any up-dow, side-to-side, means they need to be replaced.  The only movement should be when twisting it, and that amount should be slight, as it is just the slack in the trans gear.

I climbed under my truck this morning and I couldn’t feel any driveline play. Do I need to put it in 4wd to check the front driveline?

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

I definitely hear a loud “ting” when I first take off in forward or reverse

[Snowtoy]

Without a noticeable amount of play in the driveline, that may not be your issue, though the loud ting does indicate the u-joints are worn and should be replaced.

No need to put it in 4wd, the front driveline wont be causing any vibrations at speed, unless you have the hubs locked.  Are your front hubs engaged?  If they are engaged, that could cause vibrations, though that is usually when you have an auto-locker in the front.  My '91 with a detroit in the front does something similar to what you are experiencing, but an open diff shouldn't.

If you can, put the rear on a floor jack or jack stands, and rotate the wheels and see if you can hear or see any unusual movement.  If nothing noticeable, with the rear axle on jack stands, have someone start it up and put it in gear, have them run it up to 2nd/3rd gear and see what you hear or see.

Also take a good look at the tires, a tread separation can cause vibrations and noise, often not going away at certain speeds like an out of balance tire can.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

It’s the rear driveshaft u-joint. It’s getting worse so I need to take care of this soon.  Anyone have any recommendations on where and what to buy?

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Looking at Toyota they show 3 u-joints and supposedly all will fit my truck. Anyone know which one I need?

[toyodaaddict]

It’s the rear driveshaft u-joint. It’s getting worse so I need to take care of this soon.  Anyone have any recommendations on where and what to buy?

Matsuba u joints.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Matsuba u joints.

I prefer Toyota and am trying to figure out which part number of the three above I should be looking for.  I think it is 0437160070, but I want to be sure

[blackdiamond]

I prefer Toyota and am trying to figure out which part number of the three above I should be looking for.  I think it is 0437160070, but I want to be sure

Pretty sure Matusba is the OEM manufacturer and what Marlin sells.

[Snowtoy]

Not sure what site you were on, but you can get them for $57 each through this dealer's site, with currently free shipping with orders over $75.
https://parts.rosevilletoyota.com/p/Toyota_1982_Truck-DLX-24L-MT/Universal-Joint-Front--Rear/62992806/0437160070.html

If it were me, I would just go with a set of Dana u-joints(Rockauto has them for $18), or what Marlin sells if they will fit your '82, the site states '84-'95, it isn't one of those parts that needs Toyota level quality or fit and finish, like some other parts.

From what you posted, this should be the one you need.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Not sure what site you were on, but you can get them for $57 each through this dealer's site, with currently free shipping with orders over $75.
https://parts.rosevilletoyota.com/p/Toyota_1982_Truck-DLX-24L-MT/Universal-Joint-Front--Rear/62992806/0437160070.html

If it were me, I would just go with a set of Dana u-joints(Rockauto has them for $18), or what Marlin sells if they will fit your '82, the site states '84-'95, it isn't one of those parts that needs Toyota level quality or fit and finish, like some other parts.

From what you posted, this should be the one you need.

Thanks for the reply. I’ve done a lot of research and I figured out that I am 99% sure I need the 0437160070 part, but unfortunately I don’t think I can wait as long as it would take to arrive by mail so I will be taking it to a driveline shop.

[Snowtoy]

Going to the shop isn't a bad idea, they should check it for being true, and rebalance it.  Outside of a quick fix to go wheeling, I usually drop off my drivelines off at a shop for repair.

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Got it fixed. Drives smooth now. Ended up having to replace a yoke, 2 u-joints, and had it balanced. $324...seems like a steep price

[OVRAROK]

Holy smokes... I paid 300 and 350 for driveshafts.. new from a reputable company

[Groundpounder17 [OP]]

Holy smokes... I paid 300 and 350 for driveshafts.. new from a reputable company

Exactly!  It was way more than I was expecting

[Snowtoy]

With what you had replaced, and the cost of labor today, $125-150/hr, that is about right.